Pig gas tank advice (1 Viewer)

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NOSAJ

NOSAJ

Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Threads
60
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643
Location
Franklin, TN
Hey guys I hope to start a build thread soon. Been checking out the sty for awhile. I have a ‘72. Recently I removed the gas tank and local shop says they can fix it and line it for $500. They say it has about 23 holes. I’m already in $100 for the work they’ve done cleaning and such. Just checking in to see if you all know of any other options before I spend another $400 on an old tank.

Thanks!
Jason
 
Yea I’d skip the repair. That’s pretty wasted. 72’ shouldn’t be hard to locate. That one should have a vent on each corner. Not all clumped up into one section on the driver side.
Make a WTB ad and slow troll. @Denscustom1 may have one!
 
Thanks guys the shop says they can fix it and it will last. I feel like if I get a used one I’ll just be in the same boat, rusty getting it cleaned, testing etc. I can’t spend the $ on a new long range. I’ve heard they are pretty expensive like $1800. Just curious if anyone has come across something else new that I might be missing.
 
LRA tank definitely requires some fab. Installed one a few days ago

LRA 55.jpg
 
RUSH55 said:
While we’re on the subject, what fab work did this tank require?
Click to expand...
The brackets from LRA are basically only good as steel stock and get you in the area. To use their mounting holes was impossible and would have put the tank either too far forward or back (I don't recall). The brackets required clearancing around a body mount and new mounting holes needed to be drilled in both the brackets and tank flange.

Completely do-able with what they supply, but I wouldn't want to attempt it on my back and with a floor jack. Using my transmission jack, I probably had it up and out at least 8-10 times to get the fit I wanted.
 
samc2447 said:
The brackets from LRA are basically only good as steel stock and get you in the area. To use their mounting holes was impossible and would have put the tank either too far forward or back (I don't recall). The brackets required clearancing around a body mount and new mounting holes needed to be drilled in both the brackets and tank flange.

Completely do-able with what they supply, but I wouldn't want to attempt it on my back and with a floor jack. Using my transmission jack, I probably had it up and out at least 8-10 times to get the fit I wanted.
Click to expand...
Interesting. This is the most concerning part about building custom larger capacity aluminum tanks - the best method for mounting. Toyota couldn’t make up their minds on the best way to mount the tank and so there’s several versions of tanks (don’t know the year ranges for the changes in tank mounting design).
The 77’s had the pedestal mounts which bolted to the frame. Earlier versions mounted to the tub. Curious if the earlier frames had holes for these pedestals. I imagine it would be an absolute bitch to try to drill out bolt holes in the frame for later pedestals with the body in place.
 
I had my 1969 original leaky tank fixed by Gas Tank Renu for about $450. They cut a section out of the top, sand blasted inside and out, fixed holes, coated the inside, welded the cut piece back, and coated the outside. Also had them install a new bung for my Sniper EFI. Comes with a lifetime warranty against leaks.
 
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