Removing the front sway will allow your front end to compress easier/sooner. Same in rear though the benefit is small. Dangerous to run these beasts without sways. Mine are back on for life.
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Wow! The rig looks GREAT with the lift and tires!
Did you need the wheel spacers front and back or just front? Were the tires mainly rubbing inside on the A-arms, etc? I haven't tackled lift/tires, yet, but am planning to. I would think that the wider tires would hit the outer fender, particularly with the spacers.
Can you post a close-up of the cutting you did with the sawz-all? Did the trimming fix the rubbing issues on the rear of the front fender?
I wonder if the additional width of the Toyo MTs would be a problem with aftermarket front and rear bumpers. Shotts - What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks for posting and good luck!
Wow! The rig looks GREAT with the lift and tires!
Did you need the wheel spacers front and back or just front? Were the tires mainly rubbing inside on the A-arms, etc? I haven't tackled lift/tires, yet, but am planning to. I would think that the wider tires would hit the outer fender, particularly with the spacers.
Can you post a close-up of the cutting you did with the sawz-all? Did the trimming fix the rubbing issues on the rear of the front fender?
I wonder if the additional width of the Toyo MTs would be a problem with aftermarket front and rear bumpers. Shotts - What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks for posting and good luck!
I have not worked with the spacers. I think some have had success with them up front as they restore stock track on a lifted rig.
I don't see a need for them on the rear. Rubbing might worsen. You'll have wider track on the rear compared to the front. I just don't see the reason to add them. Tire size wise...the width isn't a big deal. Your front turn-stops can solve that. Diameter would be an issue, but not in this case.
This build looks REALLY good. The N74L is simply the best bolt-on option there is right now for the 100. Anybody taking their rig to 2.75"+ should get them despite the attacks from drivers who have never driven a 100 with them for comparison. NOTE: If you want advice about L vs non-L, ask a 100 owner who has L's via PM. It's the only way to avoid the negativity.
My only fear is the brush guard. It takes away clearance and could get bent into the body from the rocks. With Colicious's drive to better his Cruiser, I'd like to see him get aggressive and custom bumper that sucker!
thanks for your opinions and complitments everyone
these Toyos, even though they are 315x75, are wider than regular ATs of the same dimension due to the side lugs. due to this, they would completely hit the upper a-arm and i could not even bolt on the tire. hoser, another member on this board who runs these tires and spacers, believes the smallest wheel adapter you can run is 7/8" (IIRC) before you have to trim your studs. as for the rear and spacers, i cant see how it can really increase rubbing. right now it rubs at the curve where the top curves into the side of the inside fender. though i havnt really put much through into this. the tires stick out maybe a half of an inch aswell and completely clear the rear outside lip. they barely come into contact with the lip on the front fenders on full stuff, but its nothing too bad. ill take some more pictures once the weather clears up. and the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing.
i appreciate your compliments shotts. my quick opinion on the N74L is they cost the same as the other shock and add travel. i havnt read any true negative performance opinions/facts about these.
also, i did not adjust my turn-stops and i havnt not experienced any rubbing or anything at full turn. do you remember where your tire would rub at full turn before you adjusted yours?
and the brush gaurd only serves as a mud scoop and a tree finder right now, now too many rocks in Louisiana
"the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing."
Tell us more about the cutting? Are you sure you did not compromise the frame?
it was the seam weld in the back of the front fenders. its behind that plastic cover thats there. i trimmed the plastic and took the sawzla and cut about 6" long, and around 5/8" to 3/4" off. i believe i might need to get it re-welded as there is now a small "opening" between 2 of the peices there. as for compromising the frame, well the frame is below and around this peice and i didnt cut the frame. this peice is like where the fender, firewall, and the rest of the body all meet and is welded together. as for compromising this peice, i honestly have no idea. nothing is loose or anything. im taking it to a shop sometimes this week to see what they think about it and if it needs to be re-welded. imma post some pics in a few minutes
would that rubbing also stop with the lowered bump stops?
Good work on the truck!! looks v nice,how did you post your photoes on the site? v new to this??
cheers.
The cuts in your lugs don't look like normal trail wear. The way the lugs are sliced it looks like the tire is rubbing on sheet metal. Maybe the spacers (adapters) are causing the problem, though it's strange that it's only on the drivers side.
The cuts in your lugs don't look like normal trail wear. The way the lugs are sliced it looks like the tire is rubbing on sheet metal. Maybe the spacers (adapters) are causing the problem, though it's strange that it's only on the drivers side.
do you find that wierd to be only that one tire?I've went through 4-5 sets of tires on my 100 and 80's. I see new chunks like his all the time and in varying spots.
Nice write up. Just wanted offer an alternative to the saw-zalling the pinch welds. You could also knock them back with a small sledge hammer/mall. The end result in clearance will be nearly the same. Though the lowest horizontal portion on mine was cut as well.here is the part i trimmed. please note the rust is just surface rust and it looks a lot worse in these pictures. i will be taking care of this in a few days. the horizontal peice at the bottom i just smashed in with a BFH.
Nice write up. Just wanted offer an alternative to the saw-zalling the pinch welds. You could also knock them back with a small sledge hammer/mall. The end result in clearance will be nearly the same. Though the lowest horizontal portion on mine was cut as well.