Pictures of lift and first trail ride (1 Viewer)

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Removing the front sway will allow your front end to compress easier/sooner. Same in rear though the benefit is small. Dangerous to run these beasts without sways. Mine are back on for life. :)
 
Wow! The rig looks GREAT with the lift and tires!

Did you need the wheel spacers front and back or just front? Were the tires mainly rubbing inside on the A-arms, etc? I haven't tackled lift/tires, yet, but am planning to. I would think that the wider tires would hit the outer fender, particularly with the spacers.

Can you post a close-up of the cutting you did with the sawz-all? Did the trimming fix the rubbing issues on the rear of the front fender?

I wonder if the additional width of the Toyo MTs would be a problem with aftermarket front and rear bumpers. Shotts - What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for posting and good luck! :beer:
 
Wow! The rig looks GREAT with the lift and tires!

Did you need the wheel spacers front and back or just front? Were the tires mainly rubbing inside on the A-arms, etc? I haven't tackled lift/tires, yet, but am planning to. I would think that the wider tires would hit the outer fender, particularly with the spacers.

Can you post a close-up of the cutting you did with the sawz-all? Did the trimming fix the rubbing issues on the rear of the front fender?

I wonder if the additional width of the Toyo MTs would be a problem with aftermarket front and rear bumpers. Shotts - What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for posting and good luck! :beer:

I have not worked with the spacers. I think some have had success with them up front as they restore stock track on a lifted rig.

I don't see a need for them on the rear. Rubbing might worsen. You'll have wider track on the rear compared to the front. I just don't see the reason to add them. Tire size wise...the width isn't a big deal. Your front turn-stops can solve that. Diameter would be an issue, but not in this case.

This build looks REALLY good. The N74L is simply the best bolt-on option there is right now for the 100. Anybody taking their rig to 2.75"+ should get them despite the attacks from drivers who have never driven a 100 with them for comparison. NOTE: If you want advice about L vs non-L, ask a 100 owner who has L's via PM. It's the only way to avoid the negativity.

My only fear is the brush guard. It takes away clearance and could get bent into the body from the rocks. With Colicious's drive to better his Cruiser, I'd like to see him get aggressive and custom bumper that sucker!
 
thanks for your opinions and complitments everyone

Wow! The rig looks GREAT with the lift and tires!

Did you need the wheel spacers front and back or just front? Were the tires mainly rubbing inside on the A-arms, etc? I haven't tackled lift/tires, yet, but am planning to. I would think that the wider tires would hit the outer fender, particularly with the spacers.

Can you post a close-up of the cutting you did with the sawz-all? Did the trimming fix the rubbing issues on the rear of the front fender?

I wonder if the additional width of the Toyo MTs would be a problem with aftermarket front and rear bumpers. Shotts - What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for posting and good luck! :beer:

these Toyos, even though they are 315x75, are wider than regular ATs of the same dimension due to the side lugs. due to this, they would completely hit the upper a-arm and i could not even bolt on the tire. hoser, another member on this board who runs these tires and spacers, believes the smallest wheel adapter you can run is 7/8" (IIRC) before you have to trim your studs. as for the rear and spacers, i cant see how it can really increase rubbing. right now it rubs at the curve where the top curves into the side of the inside fender. though i havnt really put much through into this. the tires stick out maybe a half of an inch aswell and completely clear the rear outside lip. they barely come into contact with the lip on the front fenders on full stuff, but its nothing too bad. ill take some more pictures once the weather clears up. and the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing.

I have not worked with the spacers. I think some have had success with them up front as they restore stock track on a lifted rig.

I don't see a need for them on the rear. Rubbing might worsen. You'll have wider track on the rear compared to the front. I just don't see the reason to add them. Tire size wise...the width isn't a big deal. Your front turn-stops can solve that. Diameter would be an issue, but not in this case.

This build looks REALLY good. The N74L is simply the best bolt-on option there is right now for the 100. Anybody taking their rig to 2.75"+ should get them despite the attacks from drivers who have never driven a 100 with them for comparison. NOTE: If you want advice about L vs non-L, ask a 100 owner who has L's via PM. It's the only way to avoid the negativity.

My only fear is the brush guard. It takes away clearance and could get bent into the body from the rocks. With Colicious's drive to better his Cruiser, I'd like to see him get aggressive and custom bumper that sucker!

i appreciate your compliments shotts. my quick opinion on the N74L is they cost the same as the other shock and add travel. i havnt read any true negative performance opinions/facts about these.

also, i did not adjust my turn-stops and i havnt not experienced any rubbing or anything at full turn. do you remember where your tire would rub at full turn before you adjusted yours?

and the brush gaurd only serves as a mud scoop and a tree finder right now, now too many rocks in Louisiana :beer:
 
thanks for your opinions and complitments everyone



these Toyos, even though they are 315x75, are wider than regular ATs of the same dimension due to the side lugs. due to this, they would completely hit the upper a-arm and i could not even bolt on the tire. hoser, another member on this board who runs these tires and spacers, believes the smallest wheel adapter you can run is 7/8" (IIRC) before you have to trim your studs. as for the rear and spacers, i cant see how it can really increase rubbing. right now it rubs at the curve where the top curves into the side of the inside fender. though i havnt really put much through into this. the tires stick out maybe a half of an inch aswell and completely clear the rear outside lip. they barely come into contact with the lip on the front fenders on full stuff, but its nothing too bad. ill take some more pictures once the weather clears up. and the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing.



i appreciate your compliments shotts. my quick opinion on the N74L is they cost the same as the other shock and add travel. i havnt read any true negative performance opinions/facts about these.

also, i did not adjust my turn-stops and i havnt not experienced any rubbing or anything at full turn. do you remember where your tire would rub at full turn before you adjusted yours?

and the brush gaurd only serves as a mud scoop and a tree finder right now, now too many rocks in Louisiana :beer:

Well, you will be OUR source for information on running those wider tires. Please keep us updated.

As far as the rear goes, others have experienced more rubbing on their trucks when adding rear spacers. They explained that it's because the wider out the tires go the greater the arc is when articulating. It sounds weird though both these fella's were experts. :confused:

Wild on the front turn stops. I rubbed easily on the upper arm as I neared full lock. I had to reduce that radius some.

Good luck with your mud scoop!
 
"the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing."

Tell us more about the cutting? Are you sure you did not compromise the frame?
 
"the cutting i did completely fixed all issues i had with the rubbing."

Tell us more about the cutting? Are you sure you did not compromise the frame?

it was the seam weld in the back of the front fenders. its behind that plastic cover thats there. i trimmed the plastic and took the sawzla and cut about 6" long, and around 5/8" to 3/4" off. i believe i might need to get it re-welded as there is now a small "opening" between 2 of the peices there. as for compromising the frame, well the frame is below and around this peice and i didnt cut the frame. this peice is like where the fender, firewall, and the rest of the body all meet and is welded together. as for compromising this peice, i honestly have no idea. nothing is loose or anything. im taking it to a shop sometimes this week to see what they think about it and if it needs to be re-welded. imma post some pics in a few minutes
 
it was the seam weld in the back of the front fenders. its behind that plastic cover thats there. i trimmed the plastic and took the sawzla and cut about 6" long, and around 5/8" to 3/4" off. i believe i might need to get it re-welded as there is now a small "opening" between 2 of the peices there. as for compromising the frame, well the frame is below and around this peice and i didnt cut the frame. this peice is like where the fender, firewall, and the rest of the body all meet and is welded together. as for compromising this peice, i honestly have no idea. nothing is loose or anything. im taking it to a shop sometimes this week to see what they think about it and if it needs to be re-welded. imma post some pics in a few minutes


I understand now, thanks for the insight. Sounds like its not a structural part, but you may want to close it up to keep moisture out and potential rust out. I look forward to seeing your pictures.
 
here are the pics. i apologise if some of the pictures turn out a little blurry; my camera fogged right up when i went outside.

I just noticed this yesterday on my rear-driverside tire. every other tire is fine. and every outside lug looks like this. is this regular trail type wear, or something more? im inexperienced in this stuff and dont really know what to look for on tire wear.
IMG_3811.jpg


here is my CB Radio mount. the hand-mic plugs in easily and can stay plugged in aswell, just you have to push the top down, instead of just letting it fall to close.
IMG_3812.jpg


side profile. you can see how far the tires stick out
IMG_3814.jpg


here is the part i trimmed. please note the rust is just surface rust and it looks a lot worse in these pictures. i will be taking care of this in a few days. the horizontal peice at the bottom i just smashed in with a BFH.
IMG_3815.jpg


here is the rubbing in the back fenders. it rubs on both sides there and the top, and on the driver side, it rubs that back plastic peice. does anyone know whats behind there? the rear AC? would that rubbing also stop with the lowered bump stops?
IMG_3817.jpg
 
Good work on the truck!! looks v nice,how did you post your photoes on the site? v new to this??

cheers.

thanks

to post pictures you can either upload them to Mud or get an online photo hosting account. to upload them to Mud, click on New Post, then scroll down to Manage Attachments and follow that. i have a photobucket account (www.photobucket.com) thats free and allows you to upload pictures.
 
The cuts in your lugs don't look like normal trail wear. The way the lugs are sliced it looks like the tire is rubbing on sheet metal. Maybe the spacers (adapters) are causing the problem, though it's strange that it's only on the drivers side.
 
The cuts in your lugs don't look like normal trail wear. The way the lugs are sliced it looks like the tire is rubbing on sheet metal. Maybe the spacers (adapters) are causing the problem, though it's strange that it's only on the drivers side.

I've went through 4-5 sets of tires on my 100 and 80's. I see new chunks like his all the time and in varying spots.
 
The cuts in your lugs don't look like normal trail wear. The way the lugs are sliced it looks like the tire is rubbing on sheet metal. Maybe the spacers (adapters) are causing the problem, though it's strange that it's only on the drivers side.

its only the driver side rear, and only on the outside of the tire. maybe when it was stuffed in the fender it rubbed on the lip or something. anyways, ill be watching it to make sure it doesnt get worse from street driving.


I've went through 4-5 sets of tires on my 100 and 80's. I see new chunks like his all the time and in varying spots.
do you find that wierd to be only that one tire?

could alignment have caused this? is the rear alignment adjustable? could the rear alignment become screwy with the lift?



also a small update: i got the seam welded up today. when i got there i talked to the shop owner/manager about it and when he looked at it he quoted $130 total and said it would probably take an hour a side. that seemed way too much for what needed to be done. he said i could wait a few minutes for the welder guy to come back from a test drive. the guy came and said no problem, and finished both sides in under 10 minutes. now i just need the weather to cooperate so i can clean up the remaining surface rust and shoot a layer of paint on it then it'll be finito
 
Thanks for the pics and the writeup, that looks like a great cruiser
 
here is the part i trimmed. please note the rust is just surface rust and it looks a lot worse in these pictures. i will be taking care of this in a few days. the horizontal peice at the bottom i just smashed in with a BFH.
IMG_3815.jpg
Nice write up. Just wanted offer an alternative to the saw-zalling the pinch welds. You could also knock them back with a small sledge hammer/mall. The end result in clearance will be nearly the same. Though the lowest horizontal portion on mine was cut as well.

attachment.php
 
Nice write up. Just wanted offer an alternative to the saw-zalling the pinch welds. You could also knock them back with a small sledge hammer/mall. The end result in clearance will be nearly the same. Though the lowest horizontal portion on mine was cut as well.

attachment.php

that was my original plan, though i did every thing from the smashing, cutting, welding, grinding (though with a dremel + carbid bit, not a angle grinder), and painting all with the wheels still on the car. i couldnt get enough force to smash that seam in with the tire still on so i just cut it. i did hit back the lower corner with a hammer though.
 

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