Pictures of lift and first trail ride (1 Viewer)

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thanks for the compliments

went riding again this weekend and the cruiser performed flawlessly. im still glad to have the brush gaurd and the hitch. even though both of those decrease my clearance, they saved both my front and rear bumpers from being completely destroyed. even did some awesome water crossing which was probably the most fun ive had in a long time :D even got to pull out my first jeep :grinpimp:. i got the whole ride on video, but im still in the process of editing
 
Tire Rubbing

Cole - Have you lowered your rear bump stops, yet? Any updates on rubbing/wear on front/rear tires? Anything new to report on the mods after living with them for another month or so? I'm going to need tires before winter and my shocks need to be replaced, so I'm inching towards the lift - probably later this summer. I really love the look of those 35" Toyos, though I don't know if I'll go that big since I won't be able to get the rig in the garage anymore if I do. We get a fair amount of snow up North and it's a PITA if you can't park inside. Thanks for your feedback and for being the guinea pig on this setup. Real
 
IMG_3768.jpg


Cole, are your lug nuts tapered on one side and conical on the other side? Or is one side flat?
 
Hoser, So you have about the same setup with lift, wheel adapters, tires, etc? How is the tire rub on your rig? Any issues? Recommendation? Pictures? :D
 
No rub in the rear with 2" lowered bumpstops. Occasional rub in the front on fender lip and on plastic of upper/rear portion or wheelwell but my tires are slightly wider/taller than the 315's. Any 315/75-16 or larger tire with 1" wheel adapters will rub the front fender lip. If you don't care, you could trim the fender arch by an 1" and that would eliminate the rub.

My recommendation as well as some others is if you go to 35's or larger, be prepared to regear in the not so distant future. 35's and stock gearing isn't terrible but eventually you'll be wanting to regear everytime you drive it.

Furthermore, IMO, 4.88's on 35's is still under-geared (for the 4 spd trans). 5.29/35" would be over-geared. 5.29/36" tires or 4.88/34" tires would be more ideal.

Take a look at this thread on 35's and 4.88's.
 
Thanks Hoser! Good thread that I hadn't seen before.
 
Cole - Have you lowered your rear bump stops, yet? Any updates on rubbing/wear on front/rear tires? Anything new to report on the mods after living with them for another month or so? I'm going to need tires before winter and my shocks need to be replaced, so I'm inching towards the lift - probably later this summer. I really love the look of those 35" Toyos, though I don't know if I'll go that big since I won't be able to get the rig in the garage anymore if I do. We get a fair amount of snow up North and it's a PITA if you can't park inside. Thanks for your feedback and for being the guinea pig on this setup. Real

i have yet to lower the bump stops...the local trails here dont have any rocks so i dont really flex. ill do the bump stops once i start traveling to more distant trails with rocks and more aggressive terrain.

tire wear so far has been good, except for the weird lug wear i posted above, but that has not gotten any worse

i love the look and stance of it with the lift and tires. i enjoy driving it and have no issues besides some leaky cv boots which i just put on a new clip/ring and so far they have been fine.

as for the gearing and the tires, i think its a good idea. power wise, its fine for me. gas consumption is killer though. i can get like 10 mpg if i dont watch myself. however if i go 70 on the interstate i can get it back up to the mid teens. also, gearing would help on the trail in low gear...its way to fast in low and going down on muddy, sloppy hills can be interesting. having said that, i would still probably get sliders or bumpers before i re-gear.

go for the lift, you'll love it. the toyos look great on these trucks too

oh, and i have yet to rub in the front on the fenders, i think. if i have, it wasnt that noticable.


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Cole, are your lug nuts tapered on one side and conical on the other side? Or is one side flat?

do you mean the nuts holding the adapter to the hub? they are tapered on the outside, and flat to seat up against spacer on the inside.
 
Your wheel adapters, like mine, require tapered lug nuts to match the tapered mating surface. So, the tapered side of the lug nuts should be facing in, not out.

IMG_3766.jpg
 
Your wheel adapters, like mine, require tapered lug nuts to match the tapered mating surface. So, the tapered side of the lug nuts should be facing in, not out.

IMG_3766.jpg

:doh: good catch. ill have to go check that out. that seems like an obvious thing for me to miss but now you got me thinking and double checking myself. thanks for pointing that out
 
This maybe a stupid question, but I want to run toyo open country M/T 35's on my 2000 LC. I have already installed, 2 x OME865 Rear Coil Springs, 2 x Old Man Emu N133 Shocks, 2 x Old Man Emu N101 Shocks, 2 x Old Man Emu Torsion Bars and a slee diff drop. I run right now the stock mich. on the stock rims. From what I can tell now, would need, 1 inch wheel spaces, which I can get from motor-tech sports. With what I have so far, is there anything else that is needed, other then maybe some fender well modification and readjusting of the brake line location? Do I need spaces for the rear shocks to get and extra inch of lift?

For those of you with 35's any input would be greatly appreciated.

Paul
 
This maybe a stupid question, but I want to run toyo open country M/T 35's on my 2000 LC. I have already installed, 2 x OME865 Rear Coil Springs, 2 x Old Man Emu N133 Shocks, 2 x Old Man Emu N101 Shocks, 2 x Old Man Emu Torsion Bars and a slee diff drop. I run right now the stock mich. on the stock rims. From what I can tell now, would need, 1 inch wheel spaces, which I can get from motor-tech sports. With what I have so far, is there anything else that is needed, other then maybe some fender well modification and readjusting of the brake line location? Do I need spaces for the rear shocks to get and extra inch of lift?

For those of you with 35's any input would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

You don't need wheel spacers. They are a personal choice. You do not need brake line extenders unless you go with N74L shocks (or modify the stock mount). You should space up an inch in the rear and up to the 2.75" level up front. Details here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=150735
 
You don't need wheel spacers. They are a personal choice. You do not need brake line extenders unless you go with N74L shocks (or modify the stock mount). You should space up an inch in the rear and up to the 2.75" level up front. Details here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=150735

you need the spacers for the Toyo Mts. even though they are 315/75's, the side lugs make them wider than most. i couldnt even get the wheel to bolt onto the hub without the spacers; the tire would hit on the upper a-arm
 
Wow. Those Toyo's must be fat suckas!

i believe the Toyo MTs overall width is 12.9" with a height of 34.9" (height from website, width from Hoser)

the BFG A/T KOs have an OW of 12.2" with a height of 34.6" (numbers from BFG site)

i also didnt have to touch my turnstops with the spacers :cool:

edit: those tire stats were for 315/75/16s
 
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i believe the Toyo MTs overall width is 12.9" with a height of 34.9" (height from website, width from Hoser)

the BFG A/T KOs have an OW of 12.2" with a height of 34.6" (numbers from BFG site)

i also didnt have to touch my turnstops with though spacers :cool:

edit: those tire stats were for 315/75/16s

That's something. Differences that small either make the fit or not. Wow.

Hee hee on the stops. I'd like to add spacers however I'm nervouse to do so the way I wheel. I'm pretty sure the front will handle them OK. It's just a personal choice for me.
 

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