Pickup Coil/Signal Generator Replacement (1 Viewer)

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FishTown

TLCA Member #29560
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
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Location
New Braunfels, TX
Has anyone successfully replaced just the pickup coil/signal generator that is inside the distributor? I found a thread mentioning using one from a 22R/22RE, but found elsewhere that it’s not even available to purchase separately (from the dealer at least). I’m curious if I could pull a pickup coil from a bad dizzy and install onto mine. As always, thanks for the input.
 
I bought 2 ebay specials 4 years ago. The first one is still in the rig, probably have 4K miles of neglect and wheeling trips on it by now. Still works just fine. The spare sits on my shelf waiting on the first one to blow up, seize up or just die like everyone said it would.
 
Has anyone successfully replaced just the pickup coil/signal generator that is inside the distributor? I found a thread mentioning using one from a 22R/22RE, but found elsewhere that it’s not even available to purchase separately (from the dealer at least). I’m curious if I could pull a pickup coil from a bad dizzy and install onto mine. As always, thanks for the input.


hello there WillD420 ,

Here on MUD ,

There is a Fellow Named John , his user ID is @4Cruisers ,

He is one of the resident In-house OEM TOYOTA factory NipponDenso distributor

service technician's


matt




" Pajarito's NipponDenso Ignition Service"


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I've got a few new Cressida signal generators and a spare FJ60 distributor, I'll see how easy it would be to swap one in.
 
I bought 2 ebay specials 4 years ago. The first one is still in the rig, probably have 4K miles of neglect and wheeling trips on it by now. Still works just fine. The spare sits on my shelf waiting on the first one to blow up, seize up or just die like everyone said it would.

You bought 2 distributors or pickup coils off eBay?
 
Yes, it has to be done occasionally. The coil itself rarely fails, but the wires will fail either because they've been hanging & flexing outside the dissy, or from the flexing movement of the vac advance.

I keep them in stock, and new aftermarket is still available from NAPA, rockauto, etc.

The cressida part is electrically compatible, but the grommet that is molded onto the leads is different, requiring some razor work to get it in the hole, then black weatherstrip goop to hold it. The draw is the price, $50 vs $100.
 
Yes, it has to be done occasionally. The coil itself rarely fails, but the wires will fail either because they've been hanging & flexing outside the dissy, or from the flexing movement of the vac advance.

I keep them in stock, and new aftermarket is still available from NAPA, rockauto, etc.

The cressida part is electrically compatible, but the grommet that is molded onto the leads is different, requiring some razor work to get it in the hole, then black weatherstrip goop to hold it. The draw is the price, $50 vs $100.

Jim, thanks for chiming in. I’ve read some old threads where you and others have discussed testing the pickup coil. I’m a dummy when it comes to electrical, but had a family friend who’s an electrical whiz (not specifically auto electrical), help me try to pinpoint the issue. He was using a high end multimeter, and we could not get a signal from the dizzy side while cranking. The dizzy spins fine and under the cap looks ok - although the little plastic cover over the pickup coil seemed much looser than it should be. Given that information, does it sound like a bad pickup coil to you?
 
I've got a few new Cressida signal generators and a spare FJ60 distributor, I'll see how easy it would be to swap one in.

Let me know what you find out. I also see that you have a lot of parts for sale. Let me know if you’d be willing to part with one of the signal generators you have in stock.
 
Jim, thanks for chiming in. I’ve read some old threads where you and others have discussed testing the pickup coil. I’m a dummy when it comes to electrical, but had a family friend who’s an electrical whiz (not specifically auto electrical), help me try to pinpoint the issue. He was using a high end multimeter, and we could not get a signal from the dizzy side while cranking. The dizzy spins fine and under the cap looks ok - although the little plastic cover over the pickup coil seemed much looser than it should be. Given that information, does it sound like a bad pickup coil to you?
Doesn't sound like anything. The dissy pulse is very weak (millivolts), so an autoranging DVOM is not gonna see it.

Simply test for resistance at the two wires on the dissy. Should see something in the 100-200 ohm range. If the wire is broke, it will be open circuit (infinite ohms). If the coil is melted down or mashed it will be short circuit ( zero ohms).
 
I bought distributors. They were $120 each and my old one had bad bushings so a rebuild would have cost as much as both the Chinese distributors did.
 
Speaking of Skunk Works efforts, I've finished modifying an FJ60 distributor to 1) replace the dual diaphragm vacuum advancer with a new single diaphragm NipponDenso advancer that has a similar vacuum advance curve to the '77 2F distributor and 2) replace the original signal generator with an early '80s Cressida signal generator. Once my ToyotaPartsDeal order arrives (rotor, distributor cap, cap dust seal, and shaft O-ring) I'll finish the assembly and install the distributor into my '76 FJ40. The '76 already has a stock FJ60 distributor, coil, and igniter, so the installation will be really easy. I can't wait to see how it does on the highway and the steep mountain roads above town (after the climb, one of my favorite highway signs). Signal generator courtesy @ToyotaMatt.

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FJ60-Modified-Distributor-2.jpg


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Alright... I got multimeter from harbor freight. Hooked up the leads to the male connector coming from the pickup coil. It reads 156 ohms. So I guess it’s good. I did see this on the wire going from the dizzy to the ignition coil though.

4ADE68D5-D380-4200-A953-E24ED9586D9B.jpeg


It looks a little mashed or melted but the wires are not exposed. Thoughts?

So here’s where I’m at. The ignition coil tests within spec (I tried a new one just to be sure), the pickup coil tests within spec. All connections appear to be snug. The dizzy looks fine under the cap. I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires all within the last 2 years. Still don’t appear to be getting spark. What am I missing?
 

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