I went with Tundra wheels and had them powder coated. They are essentially the TRD Pros at a fraction of the cost. I bought the caps off of ebay
went from this
to this
Picking up LX 570 on Friday...newb questions
- Thread starter rjby77
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I went with Tundra wheels and had them powder coated. They are essentially the TRD Pros at a fraction of the cost. I bought the caps off of ebay
went from this
to this
I went with Tundra wheels and had them powder coated. They are essentially the TRD Pros at a fraction of the cost. I bought the caps off of ebay
went from this
to this
I never realized you didn't have the pro wheels! Those looks great.
BTW I run regular 85 Octane and am in South Denver
You should check out the local cruiser club. Many of us are members including Slee, who I am sure you will get to know.
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Being in the same town as Slee Off Road really is an advantage to us Denver cruiser heads
You should check out the local cruiser club. Many of us are members including Slee, who I am sure you will get to know.
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Being in the same town as Slee Off Road really is an advantage to us Denver cruiser heads
We run a full size front-facing seat (Britax Marathon) and two high back boosters (Graco Turboboosters) in the second row. In case it's helpful, the layout I've had most success with is the full size behind the driver's seat, and the boosters in the other seats. Kids in the boosters are able to hop in and buckle themselves which is huge.
I've had good experience with Brica kick mats: Amazon.com: Brica Deluxe Kick Mats, 2 Count: Baby
And ok experience with their seat guardian covers under the seats. A one piece cover across the whole would be much better i'm sure but different price point.
And as others have noted, Weathertech mats are required equipment in our cars these days
I've had good experience with Brica kick mats: Amazon.com: Brica Deluxe Kick Mats, 2 Count: Baby
And ok experience with their seat guardian covers under the seats. A one piece cover across the whole would be much better i'm sure but different price point.
And as others have noted, Weathertech mats are required equipment in our cars these days
To keep the peace with our junior humans we run our oldest in his seat on the rear-left of the car in the 3rd row, and then our middle and youngest on the outside positions in the 2nd row. We lose some cargo space, but gain some sanity.
I thread the slack in the strap back through the passageway in the carseat. I feel like doing that creates a better angle for generating force to fasten them down properly. I also take a vise grip and clamp that down on the end of the strap so I have something more solid to grasp... I used to feel like I couldn't get them cranked down adequately but now they don't move at all... it also helps if you tilt the seat back a little while tightening them, then move the seat back to a more upright position (helps to really eliminate any unwanted movement).
The Radian RXT rear-facing was pretty terrifying, especially just using LATCH. Even with the LATCH strap pulled as tight as I could get it, the slick plastic of the path for the nylon strap would allow it to rotate 20 or 30 degrees from side to side.
When front facing, the rear strap is the least of my worries. I'll totally own that this may be my own failure to install them correctly, but I also feel like there's a ton of lateral movement on the Radian when using seat belts. I don't think on our Radian RXT that there's any clamp or clip to try to snug the belt to the seat itself.
I'll go look later... Annoyed just thinking about that damn thing. Right up there with my universal disdain for all strollers.
When front facing, the rear strap is the least of my worries. I'll totally own that this may be my own failure to install them correctly, but I also feel like there's a ton of lateral movement on the Radian when using seat belts. I don't think on our Radian RXT that there's any clamp or clip to try to snug the belt to the seat itself.
I'll go look later... Annoyed just thinking about that damn thing. Right up there with my universal disdain for all strollers.
- Thread starter
- #28
I picked up the truck in Houston friday and had a glorious drive back. It is completely rust-free and doesn't look like it's even seen a pothole, let alone off-road. I'm now on the market for wheels and tires. I'm a bit curious about how ending up with a different size wheel changes odometer? I know a smaller overall wheel size will mean higher mileage and visa versa. Is it enough to care about? I'm looking at 17" and 18" wheels at the moment and I would be fitting tires to get them as close to stock as possible.
There's a thread on here somewhere (don't have it handy unfortunately) where @gaijin describes the two supported OEM tire sizes for either the 17" or 18" wheel options. Minor variances to tire size will either affect your odometer accuracy or speedometer accuracy, and from what I recall, you can't have both odometer & speedometer 100% accurate (but the variances are noted/negligible in my opinion)
Hate to point you to another thread, but a quick search or two should help you get closer to the answer you're looking forward.
Hate to point you to another thread, but a quick search or two should help you get closer to the answer you're looking forward.
Overall diameter is what matters to accuracy of your speedometer, so any size wheel you choose as long as your corresponding tire matches the OEM overall diameter will cause no change in how the speedometer reads. Typically large wheels of 20" or larger will be heavier than 17" or 18", so that could affect things slightly. You'd want to stick with either OEM or another light aftermarket wheel instead of getting steel wheels to avoid the handling and mpg impacts of a heavier wheel. OEM size wheel/tire combos will generally yield the best mpg and ride, and they're typically less expensive than going with bigger tires too.
- Thread starter
- #31
I found a set of 5 TRD wheels and P275/65 R18 from a 2017 Tundra. Newer set of Michelins. He's asking $1200. Thoughts? I'm pretty decided on 18" for what my use will be.
I really like our truck's Rock Warriors since they're pretty light (forged) and allow for 285/70/17 BFG KO2s which in my experience put the speedo within 1% of true, and going 17s vs 18s also gave us more sidewall for trails. With that said the difference between 18s and 17s probably isn't noticeable on a daily basis, so more power to you.
re: Rock Warriors, they're getting harder to find (there's a set on CL with tires on them for $1450 right now, but I don't know anyone with love for Toyo Open Country rubber, so that's a steep price for 4 wheels, tires that are <$800 for the set new, and no lugnuts - if it were me, I'd say no thanks) but if you're patient I bet you can find some.
The Toyota TRD wheels - are they black or silver?
If you don't care about alloy/silver, this set is pretty cheap... Assuming this is the set you're looking at, save yourself $800?
re: Rock Warriors, they're getting harder to find (there's a set on CL with tires on them for $1450 right now, but I don't know anyone with love for Toyo Open Country rubber, so that's a steep price for 4 wheels, tires that are <$800 for the set new, and no lugnuts - if it were me, I'd say no thanks) but if you're patient I bet you can find some.
The Toyota TRD wheels - are they black or silver?
If you don't care about alloy/silver, this set is pretty cheap... Assuming this is the set you're looking at, save yourself $800?
I have 18" wheels and 275/70R18 tires and the speedometer is within 1 MPH
- Thread starter
- #34
I really like our truck's Rock Warriors since they're pretty light (forged) and allow for 285/70/17 BFG KO2s which in my experience put the speedo within 1% of true, and going 17s vs 18s also gave us more sidewall for trails. With that said the difference between 18s and 17s probably isn't noticeable on a daily basis, so more power to you.
re: Rock Warriors, they're getting harder to find (there's a set on CL with tires on them for $1450 right now, but I don't know anyone with love for Toyo Open Country rubber, so that's a steep price for 4 wheels, tires that are <$800 for the set new, and no lugnuts - if it were me, I'd say no thanks) but if you're patient I bet you can find some.
The Toyota TRD wheels - are they black or silver?
If you don't care about alloy/silver, this set is pretty cheap... Assuming this is the set you're looking at, save yourself $800?
NICE! I just texted to see if they come with tires. At that price it's a steal. Even without I may consider. The people selling the 5 with tires are also appealing because I'd like to have 5 of them.
Oh that's fair, but I'm sure you can find a 5th for less than the difference between those two sets. Hope you get them ASAP!
Hope you get them ASAP!
I have love for Toyo rubber. I currently am running Toyo OC ATII's and have run the MTs as well. To me the BFG KO2 and Toyo AT II's are the two best tires out there. The Toyos cost more than the BFG's and that is what I run so obviously I have some love for them
the Toyos are about $270 a piece with out the wheel
- Thread starter
- #38
So if I was looking at 17"s, 285 70's is the ticket for stock?
Edit: check out this Google Docs spreadsheet put together by this community for lots of helpful info -
As far as I know 285/70/17 (especially in KO2s) represents the "this is the largest you will fit without any rubbing" size on both the LC and I believe the LX. If I'm off on this I know (many) others will step in and correct me.
We got our 285/70/17 KO2s + Rock Warriors mounted on a Saturday back in September, and then went and bashed some rocks with the Rising Sun group the next day up on Red Cone, and have since put over 10k miles on them and I have very few complaints myself.
In Discount Tire's lot (btw, they will price match TireRack):
Coming down Red Cone the next day:
As the truck sits now:
PS, the Rock Warrior wheel + tire fits just fine up under the stock spare location with some minor modification to the chain hanger to get it through the RW's center bore, and I ran it up under the truck the last 10k miles w/o issues.
No that is going to a larger size tire
