Pickin apart my new 60

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Joined
Apr 8, 2011
Threads
24
Messages
246
Location
Montana
Hello glad to finally be the owner of a cruiser and a newbie to the forum! I recently bought a 86 that seems to have been very well maintained mechanically except for some rust on the roof. The PO replaced allot of things on this truck and I'm having a hard time telling what I have on the damn thing. I know that he put a new crate motor from SOR in about 60k ago with a new header. When he had this done he also had a weber carb put on and desmoged it. When I look at tech manuals my engine doesn't seem to look like the one in the diagram so.....I have a few questions and as a new cruiser guy hope someone can help me out

1. How do I tell what type of weber carb is now on here. It matches up with the existing air cleaner so I was thinking it was a 38 or 32/36, it looks like there is a place to hook a choke cable but I'm not sure??? :meh:

2. My alternator is on the opposite side of the motor than in all the pictures and diagrams I find?

3. Since it has been desmoged do I have to go about fixing/ diagnosing things differently or can I still consult manuals?

4. I think this cruiser originally came from Colorado I am currently in Montana do I need to mess with the jets in the carb for better performance?

5. The draglink went bad the first week I owned it so I replaced it as well as the tie rods. What are some other things like this that I should give priority to before diving into other projects. ?

Cheers :beer:
 
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The Toyota Manuals came in different volumes: body and chassis, 2F engine, 2F emissions. On a desmog vehicle you may not need the emissions manual, but it's only $15 or so new from Toyota. The others you will be able use smog or no smog.

I would focus on drivability and safety issues first. Steering, brakes, suspension. After that get the engine running well (tune up, carb adjustment, etc.), then keep it maintained and fix things as they break, wear or as your budget allows.

As mentioned above, we won't be able to answer some of your questions without more information or pictures.
 
If the Weber has different size openings it's the 32/36 if they are even in size its a 38/38.

Your Weber should have an electronic choke that you hook up to a keyed ignition source.

Post some pictures and we can help you out some more!
 
Sorry guys.... Ill put pics up this week
 
Sorry guys.... Ill put pics up this week

pics of the engine would help,

X2 on the safety stuff brakes and steering, I question the maintenance if the drag link fell went bad.

I also question the "crate" motor.
 
Pics

Hey guys sorry it took awhile to get the pics up but maybe now someone can help me figure out what model carb I have. I know its a weber but not sure which one, also when I bought the cruiser the choke cable is hooked up on here but doesnt seem to work. When I pull the choke knob it wont move.
2011-04-23_13-03-30_122.webp
2011-04-23_13-03-35_7.webp
2011-04-23_13-03-56_134.webp
 
lookes to me like a 38/38. I have one but replacing with a trollhole carb. Never could get it to run right.
 
So if its a 38 where is the hook up for the electric choke? I couldn't seem to find it on the carb anywhere.
 
it has been replaced with the manual choke setup.

yep, in the second and third pic, the cable assembly facing the valve cover is the choke. if the cable is not moving, it needs to be replaced.
 
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cool.
 
I'm located near Dillon. Both my cruisers have smaller jets because of the altitude. Jim C. did both carbs (stock Aisins). Some folks love Webers but I don't think you can improve on a well set up stock carb.

Search the term Oil Galley Plug. You need to be aware of that.

SHow us a pic of the "rust" on the roof. If serious, that needs to be addressed even if you do a ghetto silicone temporary fix.

Check lube levels in trans and transfer case. If TC is low and Tranmission is high, you could have a problem.

Intake manifold leaks and vacuum leaks in general can be engine killers. I would recommend that you get the emissions manual and figure out what has been done. Vacuum leaks can come from a variety of sources, including PCV and brake booster.
 

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