Phishincruisin gets a vortec

[phishincruisin]

good to know, I'll do that then.

I think I've run into an issue. I'm using a stock LS1 flywheel as Jim from Downey said that what I needed to do for this engine. I'm using the stock Vortec pilot bearing as well. When I put the clutch fork in, and have the t/o bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate, the clutch fork is almost hitting the bellhousing. I measured where the clutch contacts the transmission input shaft, and it appears as though its right near the end, instead of centered on the splines like on the 2F. It seems as though the flywheel needs more offset or something to move the whole clutch assembly a little closer to the transmission.
Input?

 

[ntsqd]

In addition to the greased tap if you can apply compressed air to the water jacket (plug all other holes) then the air will blow the chips out of the engine. Only need 10-30 psi to do this. This is a common trick used on ACVW engines to add a full-flow filter to the oil system without splitting the engine cases open.

 

[phishincruisin]

FINALLY got the motor in under full support of the truck. Life has been busy as an ME student, but I have a couple days that I can get some work in, so hopefully I'll get a good part of the wiring done in the next couple days. I used some Thermo-Tek heat shield on the firewall, and I think I'm going to add a little on the flanks of what is currently there since I still have some left. Forgot to tap the head for the temp sender so I'll slide the motor forward tomorrow and do that. Here are some pictures of the engine bay before putting the motor in, and the whole package in place

 

[SARCruiser]

Looking good!

How much of the heat shield did you end up buying? Looking on Jegs, it seems like they sell it in a lot of different sizes.

How's your shifter lining up with the factory hole with where you have everything situated?

This thread really got me going on wanting to do this swap myself. Been doing a lot of looking at the other swap threads on here and one on Pirate 4x4. Talked the wife into it so now it's saving my pennies and parts collection for me

 

[phishincruisin]

Looking good!

How much of the heat shield did you end up buying? Looking on Jegs, it seems like they sell it in a lot of different sizes.

How's your shifter lining up with the factory hole with where you have everything situated?

This thread really got me going on wanting to do this swap myself. Been doing a lot of looking at the other swap threads on here and one on Pirate 4x4. Talked the wife into it so now it's saving my pennies and parts collection for me

I bought the 24"x36" Thermo-Tek from Summit, and I've used about half of it or so with what you see in the picture. I figured I'd rather have extra then not enough, and I think this will work out just right.

Shifter is lining up pretty well. I have about 1/2-3/4" clearance when I'm in 1st or 3rd, and the t-case shifter has plenty of room. I did have to massage the firewall a bit, and I got it back as far as I could without getting into serious modifications, I think I'll even be able to use my driveshafts without a problem.

Reading threads on here is what got me into it, then my friend had a cheap very low mile motor, so I had to take the plunge. I will admit that I wanted to use the Marks adapter first, because of how it kept everything in the same place. I found the Downey adapter I'm using with the clutch for a good deal locally, so I did that. I think it took a little more work to get it to fit how I wanted, but it saved me $$$$. If you have a little of electrical knowledge, and can read a wiring diagram, I'd do the harness yourself. Then you will really know how everything works and its another place to save money.

 

[phishincruisin]

been working on the wiring. here is a little peek at it right now!

 

[phishincruisin]

I was able to start her up last night and the motor sounds great! I was pretty happy when I hooked the battery up and nothing started smoking. I decided that it would be good to use a flex pipe on my crossover to eliminate some vibration and stress on the exhaust, so I'm waiting on that to come to do the exhaust. I think I'll be able to get away with butt welding my exhaust too by doing that, since the exhaust tubing I got is 14 gauge; pretty thick stuff.
I hope the neighbors didn't mind me firing her up with open headers at 12:15 am. hehehe

 

[Fish406]

I hope the neighbors didn't mind me firing her up with open headers at 12:15 am. hehehe

Figured that was you. J/K.

That's cool you got her fired up.

 

[jacksfj62]

I tried the same thing last night and the wife about went ape *&^% (she remembered when I fired my other rig up with open headers). What length flex tubing are you going to run and are you coming straight off the header with flex or putting it in between the crossover? I've got to order some bends for the exhaust and it will be ready for weld up. Also what muffler are you planning on running.

 

[phishincruisin]

Jim, Feel free to stop by some time today and hear it, I should be around all afternoon.

Jack, I'm using 2 2.5"x6" pieces 2.5" x 6" Exhaust Flex Pipe Tube Stainless Steel : eBay Motors (item 200460460810 end time May-11-10 15:06:51 PDT) I ordered up a bunch of 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust tube off the internet Tube Bending & Fabrication - Columbia River Mandrel Bending and I'm using that to make the majority of my exhaust, but I'm going to put the flex pieces in somewhere were the exhaust is straight for a distance. I think it will aid tremendously when it comes to attaching everything at the flanges since there will be a little bit of flex. I'm running a 3.5" Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flow muffler and the Flowmaster 2 2.5" to 3.5" collector.
I haven't completely figured out the routing of the exhaust, but I may run the passenger side outside the frame rail until the hump for the rear seat. I'm not sure of any better way at this point.

 

[jacksfj62]

Sounds good. I am planning on bringing the PS down between the spring and drive shaft and do a 90* bend just in front of the t-case for the cross over then to a magnaflow 2.5 dual in/dual out muffler to a dual driver side exit.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Start up video!!

I welded up mounts for an LS1 in a 240sx today

BTW: you're missing a fender.

 

[ntsqd]

I prefer to put the flex sections as close to the header collector flanges or exhaust manifold as possible.

 

[phishincruisin]

I made a startup video, but the quality was so crappy its not worth putting up...
I'm going to try and put them close to the headers, it really depends how the routing goes.
I made a custom gas pedal today. Merged what I think it a 62 pedal with mine, and I think it will work great.

I decided that I'm going to get an Autometer tach, since I plan to rev my engine up over 5k frequently, or until I start breaking stuff too much. If its not fun, why do it?

I found with many vortecs it is required to condition the tach signal so that the square wave provided can be read by the tach. There are a few ways of doing this, using a pull up circuit, purchasing a tach signal converter, building a signal converter, or apparently there is a pull up circuit in the PCM that can be activated during tuning, but I'm not totally sure about that. I read that a pull up circuit can fry the PCM after years of use, with the increased current load on the pcm. I did find a schematic of the signal conditioner to build with about $8 of parts from Radio Shack. Its not my work so I'll provide a link, but I think it could be very helpful for people that are doing this swap and want to get their tach to work. I believe this issue applys mostly to '03-newer vortecs. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/7559439-post24.html

 

[jacksfj62]

I think the out put for the PCM is a 4 cyl signal. I am using Stewart Warner gauges that have a bunch of diff switches to select the proper signal from the output, so will see how that goes.

 

[phishincruisin]

the pcm does output a 4 cyl signal. I got my tach mounted in the stock location today. Turned out pretty well. I just need to get one more IC so I can finish building the signal conditioning unit. I tested the tach with a pull up circuit and it works, but the needle oscillates very quickly at low rpms, haven't tested it at high rpms yet, but from what I've read the needle is supposed to steady out.
Here are a few pictures of how I mounted the tach in the stock housing.

 

[phishincruisin]

and here is a picture of it in the cluster. Too bad I had to buy the whole tach just to take the internals out and mount it in the stock housing. oh well.

 

[jacksfj62]

Looking good. I have another set back on mine.

 

[SARCruiser]

Looking good. What size/series of Autometer gauge is that?

 

[phishincruisin]

its a 2 5/8" z-series tach. Part no 2892. I tested the lights on it a little while ago, and the spacing is just about right and its the same brightness as the rest of the dash.

I'm trying to figure out wiring for my contour fans. The pcm gives a ground for low speed and a ground for high speed. my understanding is that during high speed the low speed is on as well. Would it be bad to have just one fan running during low speed, and then have two during high speed, or should I wire it like the f-bodys were wired following this diagram?