Phishincruisin gets a vortec

[ntsqd]

To connect to steel tubing like that there are basically three robust options that I know about, and one far less robust option that negates running the braided hose in the first place (hose clamp).

Can use a Swaglok conversion fitting. The Swagelok fittings will run about $30 each in stainless, but they are a lifetime purchase. Something like this:
SS-600-6-6AN - SS Swagelok Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. AN Tube Flare
Page 2 of this pdf shows how these compression fittings work. They are nothing like the compression fittings sold at parts stores. These are rated somewhere above 3000 psi working pressure depending on the actual tubing used. (Tube specs pdf)

In case you haven't run across it before, there is a parallel industrial fitting range to the AN series known as "JIC". They are directly interchangeable with AN except that instead of usually being anodized aluminum they are either steel or brass. Neither AN or JIC will work with fittings of any other flare angle. If it is not a 37* flare, it won't work right.

Or you could use a tube nut & sleeve, and then flare the tubing to the necessary 37* flare. Starting on pg. 178 of this pdf:
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/W-HYOV-MC002-E2_Adapters_and_Hose_Ends_110-367.pdf

The 3rd method is to use a male AN/JIC steel fitting and silver-solder it to the tube. Fittings for this are on the bottom of Pg 179 of the above pdf file.

FWIW I've found Orme Bros. to be far more knowledgeable and have the fittings needed than any of the price whores.

 

[phishincruisin]

Awesome, thanks ntsqd. I'll look into those fittings. Now I just have to crawl under the cruiser with the vernier to measure the tube sizes, unless someone knows that. This whole fuel supply system gets expensive...

 

[ntsqd]

If you find that the tubes are an odd size, like say 7mm, then the likely easiest thing to do will be to go the silver solder route. A trick that works well for this is to buy the JIC plugs (Pg 181 of the above Eaton pdf, p/n C5229X6 for -6AN size) rather than the braze specific fittings and through-drill them to the size needed.

For the low pressure sections (i.e. the return and the suction portion of the supply line) I would consider going with the FC332 hose and the related Push-lok or Barb-tite fittings. Can get these fittings to mate with AN/JIC 37* flare adapters. Less costly, still very robust, and directly interchangeable with AN hose & fittings.

For my own engine swap I plan to use the FC332 hose and related fittings exclusively in the fuel system. Good to 250 psi and 300*f. Oil, diesel, and gasoline have no effect on the hose - inside or outside. Best part is that assembly is easy, just push the hose onto the fittings and it's good to 250 psi! I converted all of the plumbing at work's dyno to this hose system several years ago and we use it anywhere that we can.
I'm not fond of the way that braided hose collects grit in the braid. Once in the braid it is hard to clean and if the hose is subject to much flexing the grit works like valve grinding compound to slowly wear away the braid. I cover SS braided hoses with adhesive lined heat shrink where ever I need to use it (like brake hoses) and then seal the end gaps with self-fusing splicing tape. That keeps the grit from being able to get into the braid.

 

[phishincruisin]

I hadn't even considered the fact that dirt and grit would collect in the stainless braid. That isn't something I want to deal with, since this rig is no mall crawler. I like the looks if the FC332 hose, its just real expensive. Have you found that hose (3/8 or #6) anywhere for less then about $7/foot?

 

[ntsqd]

I just called my local source, about $7/foot for walk-ins. We are a (small) volume buyer so I hadn't realized how much the stuff goes for as a walk-in customer. Were you thinking to use hose for the whole distance? I'm guessing about 4 feet would cover it if steel tube is part of the plan.

I use steel tube from the local CarQuest or Napa and cut off the existing flares (since they're the wrong angle) and pitch the existing tube nuts.

How I like to make the jump from hose to tube or vice verse is to use a bulkhead fitting in a hole in an existing tab, bracket, or flange; or add a tab for the fitting(s) where there's nothing else available. That way the ends of the tube are anchored and any force exerted by the hose goes into the tab rather than fatiguing the tubing. As matter of habit I always try to put the bulkhead's retaining nut on the tube side since it rarely comes loose, but it doesn't really matter.

 

[phishincruisin]

I was trying to decide whether I wanted to run just the FC332 hose, or mix it with some hard line. I just found it for $3.19 a foot. I found FBV0600 to be the part number for the -06 size FC332 hose. Am I understanding this correctly? Seems like they cross-reference but I wanted to make sure. Seems like pretty awesome hose. Racer Parts Wholesale - Award Winning Online Catalog For Real Racers and Riders seems to have really good prices, so I'm using them.

 

[ntsqd]

That is a pretty good price! It's interesting that Summit doesn't appear to carry it. I use the blue hose rather than the black hose, but I do not think that there is any difference other than color. Nope, no difference according to the Aeroquip's pdf: http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/A-SPPE-MC001-E3.pdf

 

[phishincruisin]

I thought it was interesting that Summit didn't carry it, thats where I'm ordering the rest of the fittings from.

On a progress standpoint, I finished making my way through the harness tonight and I have everything removed so that I have a stand alone harness. I just have to wire in the fuse block and relays to finish it off, but I'm going to wait until its in the truck so that I can wire it so everything fits nicely. Once everything extraneous is removed, the wiring really actually makes a lot of sense!

 

[rover67]

I used the blue hose from summit hose clamped to the pickup on the stock tank. It runs through a filter (hose clamped again) and into the inline pump. After the inline pump it is all -6 AN fittings since at that point it it pressurized.

The return i ran through the stock steel return line hose clamped at the firewall connection and I kept the rubber line in the back to the return port in the tank. I have a regulator at the firewall so it needs that stock return line.

PM me if you want pics. i am out of town but can get them this weekend.

you'll need the fittings from summit to connect to the corvette fuel filter/regulator, these are the same ones that work fo the fuel rail connection I believe. You'd want to add a filter before your inline pump too, so it'd be tank outlet to filter, to pump, to corvette filter/regulator with areturn to tank. you'd only have one line going to the front of the truck where I have two.

The setup works well.

 

[phishincruisin]

I used the blue hose from summit hose clamped to the pickup on the stock tank. It runs through a filter (hose clamped again) and into the inline pump. After the inline pump it is all -6 AN fittings since at that point it it pressurized.

The return i ran through the stock steel return line hose clamped at the firewall connection and I kept the rubber line in the back to the return port in the tank. I have a regulator at the firewall so it needs that stock return line.

PM me if you want pics. i am out of town but can get them this weekend.

you'll need the fittings from summit to connect to the corvette fuel filter/regulator, these are the same ones that work fo the fuel rail connection I believe. You'd want to add a filter before your inline pump too, so it'd be tank outlet to filter, to pump, to corvette filter/regulator with areturn to tank. you'd only have one line going to the front of the truck where I have two.

The setup works well.

I'm using the Russell fittings off of summit for the FFR and the fuel rail. I'm going to be using -6 AN fittings the whole way through, and a pre-filter for the pump. I figured since I was using the nice hose, I should go for it and use the nice fittings throughout.

Anyone else use Brendan from LT1Swaps.com for their PCM programming? He's deleting VATS, emissions stuff, rear o2s, switching it to cable throttle body, and putting a mild tune on for $75. Seems pretty reasonable to me.

 

[phishincruisin]

I have most of my parts in hand now, and the swap is going to begin in a week! I'm just waiting on some exhaust bends, headers, the f-body oil pan I switched with a friend for my truck pan, and o2 sensors, and flywheel bolts to arrive, and for napa to get their hands on the right pilot bearing! I feel like I'm getting close with all the parts, but I know there will be some little odds and ends to get once the swap is under way.
I do need to find an adaptor to run my oil pressure sender in the gm block. does anyone know where to source that part?

 

[jacksfj62]

Good luck with the project. I am tying up loose ends and about to get my custom hoses and PCM programed. I will be using Brendan @ LT1swaps as well.

 

[phishincruisin]

I got the cruiser in the garage, and the hood off yesterday evening and then motors coming out today! I'll post some pictures in a little while here.
I got a call from Advance Adapters yesterday letting me know that I won't be receiving my headers in the mail on tuesday like I was told 2 weeks ago when I ordered them, but rather that they don't know when they will be done, and can't give me a time on when I'll get them. Thats going to put a halt on putting the motor in the truck, hopefully they will call me first thing monday with some good news. Thanks AA.

 

[phishincruisin]

I'm waiting for a friend to come over to help lift the front clip off, so here are some pictures from this morning with just the hood off, and the final shots of the 2F sitting in there...

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Dang, hadnt seen the front fender before. You dont need a vortec, you need a driving school

 

[phishincruisin]

i'm going to punch it out and prime it while its off. its sitting in the driveway collecting snow right now....

 

[phishincruisin]

2f is out! went pretty smoothly, and only forgot to disconnect the choke cable, so that was good. Here are some pictures of it out, and one of my piles of parts. Now I have to finish getting the 5.3 together, and do a whole lot of cleaning

 

[jacksfj62]

Looks like you are rolling along pretty good. Are you planning on stripping the frame and redoing it? Also suggest running the fuel lines prior to setting the motor. I learned this the hard way, not a hard job but a lot easier with motor out.

 

[phishincruisin]

I'm stripping the frame and repainting it. I'll take your advice on the fuel lines.
I got the old motor mounts out and the frame cleaned up, started cleaning the firewall, started removing the unnecessary wires, and put my camaro pan on the 5.3.
I saw that mwdubs made his own vss for his vortec swap, so I'm going to copy him and make my own as well. I have access to a plasma table, so I'll get the flange cut there.
Tomorrow I'm going to pull the dash to continue with the wiring and hopefully get my throttle cable mount designed as well. That will be cut on the plasma table too. Hopefully there will be good news from AA in the morning!

 

[phishincruisin]

Still don't have my headers. Hopefully they will be in tomorrow, they said they were shipping them overnight on tuesday. The frame and firewall are cleaned up, fuel tank is ready with fittings, once the headers come I can finish my mounts and put the motor in! Everything else is in order, except for oil pressure and temperature sender adapters. I think I'm going to tap a spot right above the oil filter to 1/8 npt and use an adapter from my sender there. Finding a way to easily adapt the temperature sender is hard though, it is M16x1.5, and the hole I'd like to put it in is M12x1.5. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks!