Phishincruisin gets a vortec
- Thread starter phishincruisin
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
oh, and a couple pictures 
- Thread starter
- #43
I was planning on sticking to my stock gauges, and maybe get a coolant and oil pressure gauge later. I don't have the money for that right now, although I do remember seeing a post about a gauge that did oil pressure, temp, amp and fuel like the stock 60 one, that could work. I'm just trying to get the stock gauges to work for now
That explains where the multi meter went....spent a while looking through the garage for it a couple weeks ago.
ntsqd
technerd
How does the M16 seal? If it is a crush washer then the solution is to simply drill and tap an M16 bolt to the female threads that you need and trim the bolt to the right length.
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- #47
I think I might drill and tap that hole for M16, I just really don't want to pull the head, since this motor has 186 miles... its not even broken in!
Headers came in last night, they look pretty good. AA did a $hitty job welding them, and when I have access to a die grinder I'm going to grind the welds on the inside down, I don't think they help the flow at all...
I spent the morning designing some parts for motor mounts and my vss. A guy I know just got a plasma table, so it was time to put it to use. Here are some of the parts I made. Time to weld them up and fit the motor up!
Headers came in last night, they look pretty good. AA did a $hitty job welding them, and when I have access to a die grinder I'm going to grind the welds on the inside down, I don't think they help the flow at all...
I spent the morning designing some parts for motor mounts and my vss. A guy I know just got a plasma table, so it was time to put it to use. Here are some of the parts I made. Time to weld them up and fit the motor up!
vss looks good so far let me know if you need any info on it i remember that the sensor needs to be a min of 0.010" to max of 0.020". I used a feeler gauge to set the distance then epoxied the sensor in to the casing.
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- #50
yeah, it should work well. I'm copying the setup that mwdubs did. I think it will work really well, I just need to turn the inner bore a bit so I can have it slip over the shaft in the transfer case, hopefully I can do that at school on monday.
We set the motor in the engine bay, Its supported in there for the night. I have to figure out the right location. Where it is right now, the shifter is almost into the hole in the tunnel, but not quite. Its pretty close to the firewall as well.
How much clearance have other had between the heads and the firewall? That seems to be the first place I'll hit.
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- #51
spent the day cleaning up the frame, and trying to get the motor to fit without pounding the firewall too hard. Probably have pulled the motor 3 or 4 times, but each time I need more clearance on the firewall. One more pull in the morning and it should be all set. Hitting the firewall with a BFH makes you feel a lot better after spending hours in the garage, constantly interrupted by your roommate trying to learn how to do a front brake job and constantly needing help to do the simple things...
Should be able to burn the mounts in tomorrow, then for the plumbing and electrical. yippee!
Should be able to burn the mounts in tomorrow, then for the plumbing and electrical. yippee!
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- #52
Finally got the front mounts in today. Will finish the rear mount up tomorrow after I find some 9/16 grade 8 bolts for the motor mounts. I found that the local John Deere has a huge variety of metric and SAE bolts in different grades, and you pay by the pound.
It took a while to get the motor where I was happy with it, but I finally got it there with some firewall clearancing.
I started putting some of the fuel system together today as well. I like how easy it is to put everything together with the AQP socketless hose and -AN fittings. It should turn out well.
I'll post some more pictures up tomorrow once I get the mounts in.
It took a while to get the motor where I was happy with it, but I finally got it there with some firewall clearancing.
I started putting some of the fuel system together today as well. I like how easy it is to put everything together with the AQP socketless hose and -AN fittings. It should turn out well.
I'll post some more pictures up tomorrow once I get the mounts in.
if there is a tractor supply store in your area they have a good selection of standard size grade 8 hardware, and Lowes normally does, also a place called FAST-N-All (not sure of the spelling) is a good source. Not many have good selctions of metric grade 8 stuff.
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- #54
John Deere has a great selection of 10.9 grade metric stuff, and I think I saw some SAE grade 8 bolts there too so I'm going to check there in the morning since I need some shorted M10 bolts for my motor mounts. We have a Fastenal in town here too, so I'll check that if JD doesn't work out.
rover67
SILVER Star
there is a spot on the right head near the back that has a little plug in it, I just drilled it and tapped it out to the 16 x 1.5 thread. The spot matches the spot in the left head where the GM temp sensor is installed.. but in the left head it is in the front since the head is flipped around.
Yes, they are straight threads, and yes, you just use an aluminum crush washer.
I had to buy a tap and corresponding drill bit on McMaster-Carr since nowhere in town seemed to have one.
the oil pressure sender fits in that spot above the oil filter you are talking about, We just drilled and tapped one for Trey who is doind the same swap here in town. The hole that was in that little adapter peice was slightly too big for 1/8" pipe threads, but it'll work. you'll see when you go to drill and tap it.
Looking good!
Yes, they are straight threads, and yes, you just use an aluminum crush washer.
I had to buy a tap and corresponding drill bit on McMaster-Carr since nowhere in town seemed to have one.
the oil pressure sender fits in that spot above the oil filter you are talking about, We just drilled and tapped one for Trey who is doind the same swap here in town. The hole that was in that little adapter peice was slightly too big for 1/8" pipe threads, but it'll work. you'll see when you go to drill and tap it.
Looking good!
- Thread starter
- #58
Rover, I'm tapping that spot for the oil pressure sender, and I was thinking of tapping that other hole for the temp gauge. I just don't want to pull the head since this is a brand new motor. Think I could get away with using grease to catch the chips, and almost constant cleaning? Then I wouldn't have to pull the head.
Landcruisin'60, we don't get cable here. sorry.
Bozo, get your axles under your ranger and quit complaining!
I just got in from finishing the transmission crossmember. Late night, but glad I was able to get it done. So it is tacked, and so are the front mounts. Tomorrow morning I'll pull the motor and burn the mounts in so I can get everything painted. Here are a few pictures of the front mounts and the transmission crossmember.
Landcruisin'60, we don't get cable here. sorry.
Bozo, get your axles under your ranger and quit complaining!
I just got in from finishing the transmission crossmember. Late night, but glad I was able to get it done. So it is tacked, and so are the front mounts. Tomorrow morning I'll pull the motor and burn the mounts in so I can get everything painted. Here are a few pictures of the front mounts and the transmission crossmember.
- Thread starter
- #59
one more. tranny crossmember tacked in place
rover67
SILVER Star
You can get away with tapping that hole with the head on the block for sure. Just use grease like you said on the tap and drill bit you use to drill it out with. Go slow, clean and grease often.
