Pertronix 1662ls no spark (1 Viewer)

[7677fj40s]

I own a 76 fj40 with the original 2f engine. I was running the stock points based distributor until I started having intermittent issues (misfires running like you know what). So I purchased a distributor from city racer (Toyota 19100-61180 Denso) the truck ran great for about a month then symptoms started coming back. So I purchaed the pertronix 1662ls conversion and the flame thrower coil. Followed the instructions with wiring tried to start truck and no spark. I have tested with a multimeter and received the following:
+- batt 12.15V
-batt to + coil 11.76V
+- coil .09V
+batt to -plate of distributor 12V
Resistance across the coil 3ohms
I can life the black wire from the coil and get 12 V rotate the rotor slightly and see a drop to 4.5V

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated as I have read so many threads and racked my brain to the point I am just going in circles!

 

[7677fj40s]

I own a 76 fj40 with the original 2f engine. I was running the stock points based distributor until I started having intermittent issues (misfires running like you know what). So I purchased a distributor from city racer (Toyota 19100-61180 Denso) the truck ran great for about a month then symptoms started coming back. So I purchaed the pertronix 1662ls conversion and the flame thrower coil. Followed the instructions with wiring tried to start truck and no spark. I have tested with a multimeter and received the following:
+- batt 12.15V
-batt to + coil 11.76V
+- coil .09V
+batt to -plate of distributor 12V
Resistance across the coil 3ohms
I can life the black wire from the coil and get 12 V rotate the rotor slightly and see a drop to 4.5V

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated as I have read so many threads and racked my brain to the point I am just going in circles!

 

[7677fj40s]

View attachment 3782824

Very sad!!!

 

[Malleus]

Good luck. I was having similar problems until I had the capacitors replaced in the igniter. I gave up on Pertronix.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, @Engineer8000 is a wizard with the old electronics. I'd recommend sending your igniter to him and going back to stock.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Not that it is all that important but your battery is flat should be more than 13 v IMHO or your meter is off.

Just because parts are new doesn't mean they are good or still good after placing them in service.

 

[7677fj40s]

I will charge the battery and see what happens.

 

[Malleus]

Simplest route

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'm not a petronix guy/. I would scrape the contacts for the spark plug wires inside the cap if you have them and the edge of the rotor bug that passes the spark to the cap inside connector. Make sure your plugs are gapped correctly and have a square surface on the center electrode. Look for corrosion inside the plug boots at both ends.

 

[Grayscale]

At any point, was the coil energized without the engine rotating? My understanding is that you can burn-out a coil if it can't discharge thru the spark plugs.

I'm with charliemeyer007 regarding Pertronix. I'm not a fan of electronic ignition upgrades, as the old points, or points and igniter, is simple and reliable enough without having to do much that requires any special skill or knowledge.

 

[pb4ugo]

I wonder if your problem is with the distributor. The stk dist was replaced becuase of a misfire, then the 2nd one was replaced because of a misfire, and now the pertronics doenst work. Your voltage numbers don't make sense.
Bat voltage is +-, +- coil. -batt to +coil?

 

[7677fj40s]

Those were the positions of the multimeter leads and corresponding voltage.

 

[72 Fixerupper]

What worked well for me, with a 4 year older setup - Flamethrower is a 3 ohm internal resistance coil so I got rid of the original ballast resistor and ran keyed power straight to the pos coil terminal, along with carburetor fuel cutoff solenoid and Pertronix red wire. Pertronix black to neg coil terminal. Had to open up the spark plug gap to .040 with the Pertronix. Had a miss under load at the original .035. I have no experience with that newer ignitor, but this is working for me on a 1F.

 

[DeskJock]

I too just installed the Pertronix 1662LS, fired right up and just needed a small tweak to the time.

I too purchased a 3 ohm fire thrower.

also have that City Racer distributor.

You stated that you have 12.15 volts at the battery ( which is a tad low)

You state that the plus side of the coil you have 11.76 - which means you have resistance to the coil. You don’t need resistance to the coil - unless that coil isn’t rated for 12volt.


The tech guys at Pertronix are awesome - have you call them?

can we get a picture of the distributor with the cap and rotor removed and a picture of the coil wiring?

 

[7677fj40s]

This is amazing and so thankful for the responses. I have the red wire the ignition and what I believe is the fuel cutoff (green connector) on the positive side of the coil. I removed the resistor when I went to the flame thrower 3ohm coil. I assumed that resistance was in the wire and the ignition circuit but maybe that’s too much. The poor method of attachment of the red wire is temp. As I abandoned the original red wire and ran on direct for testing.

 

[DeskJock]

So ...
1. Your yellow wire that I think your using for a ground, isn't needed and maybe interfering with your vacuum advance.
2. Your Distributor appears to be extremely over advanced; we have the same distributor - but, it looks to me like your off one full cylinder
3. On the Negative terminal, do you just have the negative side of the Pertronix ... or is there another wire attached to that side of the coil?
4. is the coil your using a 3 ohm coil?

On my setup,

I have a tachometer and the negative side of the Pertonix attached to the negative side of the coil.
On the positive side of the coil, I have the factory positive from the ignition ( and, I have the positive side of the starter solenoid - which really isn't needed) and, I am supplying the carburetor from the positive side of the coil ... because the previous owner removed some of the electrical near the carb.

when you say there isn't a spark, were you able to physically see that a spark plug wire didn't arch? or .. is it that the Engine doesn't start?

without loosening the distributor ... can you turn the distributor by hand? - as my current guess is that distributor is misaligned.

 

[DeskJock]

The reason for the load resistor is to reduce the voltage thru the points. With the Pertronix’s it’s not needed, and will get you a better spark in the engine chamber.

 

[7677fj40s]

3 ohm coil and just the one black wire coming from the distributor. I think the yellow wire you are referring to has a capacitor on it then to ground. I assumed it was for noise reduction. One odd thing is I had this distributor in and truck running well for a month. It was running better than it had with the original mechanical and vac system. Then it started misfiring. I bought a timing light to make sure the timing was right and I am dead on the BB with the light on #1. How could we both be in time but the positions of the distributors be so different?

 

[7677fj40s]

Sorry did not read whole message. I took the coil wire from the top of the distributor and held it about 1/8 from the engine and saw no spark. Also I have the distributor locked down after setting the time.

 

[Pighead]

How could we both be in time but the positions of the distributors be so different?

You can "clock" the distributor to any position that fits...