PC Board; Mega Squirt PNP and your help

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looks real nice. I know you built this of a 92 but the real need is with the 93 and 94 trucks and a similar solution would be the balls.

Right now those trucks have the much better 1FZ-FE but a debilitating fuel management system Since they aren't OBDII this thing would be ideal and offer them some boosting options they otherwise don't have.
 
Matt from DIYAutoTune.com here. We found this thread and I just wanted to keep an eye on it to see how this install turns out and if I can be of any help.

I think I've found a method of identifying which Toyota connectors used the high current 12 pin setup vs the low current 12 pin setup, so I'm going to go back through my own pinout database to see what I applications we can find from our end.
 
MadScientistMatt said:
Matt from DIYAutoTune.com here. We found this thread and I just wanted to keep an eye on it to see how this install turns out and if I can be of any help.

I think I've found a method of identifying which Toyota connectors used the high current 12 pin setup vs the low current 12 pin setup, so I'm going to go back through my own pinout database to see what I applications we can find from our end.
Click to expand...

Matt,

I posted here too.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/400192-turbo-your-i6-recipe.html

There are a few guys watching that thread as well with regards to the ECU.
subscribe to that one as well.

Wayne
 
Update today

I have been busy, but today I'm working on it. I drove the truck around today. With the Stand alone. I need to install the idle control stepper circuit now. (MATT) Be looking for my email. I just haven't physically added the components to the board yet.

I have tried several different types of firmware, but have found that the ms extra 2.1 works the best. I say because the B&G original code I had trouble with the trigger inputs. I'll get with Matt on this. I wanted to use the original B&G code because I can do a MAF input and use the factory MAF sensor and add a map sensor and blend for speed density/maf and ultimate resolution. If I can get this version to use the MAF, then i'm kickin arse.

I am satisfied now! Just need to work on the o2 heater circuit, make sure that will rock and roll, and then I'll start looking at the 93-97 Land cruisers.

I'm still going to say, the post 96' models use the MAP ECU2 piggy back, and still pass emissions etc. Pre-96 you can actually replace the computer and still pass emissions because the CEL will work and calibrated properly it will pass a sniffer test.

Most of the instructions are on the DIY website, so far I haven't done anything special aside from the school of hard knocks on input circuitry, scoping and measuring. Hopefully it will save someone on here some time if they go this route. I can just forward some settings and possibly a start up map onward.
 
:cheers:This is f-ing awesome! I was going to ask where can I school myself on this kind of stuff but you beat me to it in your last thought! I know I have said it already but thanks for this great input to the 80 community!
 
I think I figured out why the other firmware wasn't working right. It even said in the directions. When you change firmware be sure and manually check the trigger settings. I overlooked a cam/crank count, so bottom line, if you change your firmware check each line. It's good practice anyway no matter which stand alone you use.

Alright. I'll be back when I get the idle circuit done.
 
hey wayne,

if my 3FE ever quits, im calling you to do my ls swap. on another note, why would someone decide to molest a 288 GTO? not in collector car shape anymore? and what kind of turbos are needed to push 1600 hp?!
 
It's actually a 308-288 conversion. The last real 288 in the shop sold for like 800,000 before the economy crashed. No way we'd cut up a real one.

And, the turbo's are old technology. Precision sells ones half that size that together make over 2000 hp.
 
wayneosan said:
It's actually a 308-288 conversion. The last real 288 in the shop sold for like 800,000 before the economy crashed. No way we'd cut up a real one.

And, the turbo's are old technology. Precision sells ones half that size that together make over 2000 hp.
Click to expand...

ahh yes, that makes more sense. such a good looking car.
 
Just found this thread. This would likely apply to FJ-62's with the 3FE as well. I've got a blown up pin out diagram of the ECU from a failed attempt at a Unichip install on my stroked, bored, ported and cam'd 3FE. I'll scan that and post it up here to see if it matches.

edit: I assume you have complete timing control as well? I run a J&S Vampire Safeguard and would really like to experiment with more timing than I can statically dial in via the distributor
 
Last edited:
Uni-crap. I mean,

I'm soooo sorry you had to deal with that.


That's lower than a Haltech.

I can get whatever you want to work. PM me for details, there are a few things I'd like to discuss, and specific pages. I have a Toyota login, but it costs 50 bucks for a subscription. If you have the factory EWD, and standard repair manuals we can start talking!

Wayne
 
Idle circuit update.

Got my idle chip in. Stopping by the store to pick up some other "stuff" but I'll be installing that asap.

That's funny about the knock control. The DIY board has knock control. I installed the circuitry for it, but we'll have to use our own knock sensor. Pretty cool. Here's a quote off Matt's site:


"We've copied the MSnS knock circuit over onto this board. This circuit is untuned and should be used with caution - it's more to protect you from a tank of bad gas than to fine tune your spark curve. Jumper the pins on the adapter board that bring the knock sensor signal in to the point marked Sensor In. If you have only one wire, hook it to the square hole marked +; if you have two wires, you'll use both the positive and negative jumper holes. Installing the Enable jumper will bring the signal in on ADC2. The Knock Adjust pot can adjust the sensitivity.

You can also use external knock signal conditioning devices, which are often more accurate. To use one of these, you can bring its input in through the DB15 to the ADC1 or ADC2 pin. Normally, the signal the DIYPNP is looking for is a 5 volt signal that is pulled to 0 volts when knock occurs, though firmware allows switching this."
 
landtank said:
looks real nice. I know you built this of a 92 but the real need is with the 93 and 94 trucks and a similar solution would be the balls.

Right now those trucks have the much better 1FZ-FE but a debilitating fuel management system Since they aren't OBDII this thing would be ideal and offer them some boosting options they otherwise don't have.
Click to expand...

I'm right there with Rick- we need a solution to solve the 93-94 VAF meter issues and allow us to boost without grenading our engines. Better mpg would be a worthwhile outcome as well, even if not boosting. Post up with any help you would need to work it out.
 
Any update?
 
wayneosan said:
the header adapter is only sold in mass quantity, so you'll have to call tyco to get a sample, which is free, then it can be built. I'm not building them. It worked fine on my truck.

Wayne
Click to expand...
Resurrecting an old thread; Wayne, did you ever get around to the A442f/A343F transmissions?
 
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