Build Patch's Build Thread

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abuck99 said:
Patch have your failures been at the at the ITR pivoting joint or threaded section pulling out where the ITR screws into the rack?
View attachment 4097484

I found on my 05 the ITR seem to develop some “slop” movement where they thread into the rack end and the locking tab starts to bend and allow for additional movement and eventually that hammering action galls the threads and then failure.
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That is precisely what happened to mine. You can see the stripped threads from the ITR here since it backed out of the locking tab.
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By the time the end rack threads are loosened up, they have been stretched and installing a new ITR seems like a waste of effort and $ unless its a trailside getting home repair or something you just want incorporate in recurring maintenance. Im of the mind to spot weld the ITR to the rack end.
 
I cross-threaded and sent it... still fine.
I have thought about drilling a hole through the ITR and rack and using some sort of cotter pin, whadayathink @cruiserpatch
 
abuck99 said:
Patch have your failures been at the at the ITR pivoting joint or threaded section pulling out where the ITR screws into the rack?
View attachment 4097484

I found on my 05 the ITR seem to develop some “slop” movement where they thread into the rack end and the locking tab starts to bend and allow for additional movement and eventually that hammering action galls the threads and then failure.
Click to expand...
The failures on the 98-02 on my truck (and others I've witnessed) have all been at the pivoting section (yellow on your diagram).
I've yet to see an ITR separate on a 98-02 but GA witnessed a pretty catastrophic failure of his 03-07 ITR on trail 22 at Windrock (see video).

There are multiple problems with the ITRs from my experience, one of which you named already.

  • bending/plastic deformation of the ITR pivot joint (98-07)
  • failure of the inner sleeve of the ITR pivot joint (this is the failure mode I experience like clockwork now)
  • thread failure (video) on 03-07 ITRs due to an insufficient amount of material on the claw washer (see my redesign of 90214-27002)
The last of these problems would be justification for a recall from Toyota. I've personally witnessed this happen on 4x trucks over the past 5 years and every single one of them was a new OEM rack (not an installation error).

The other two issues mentioned come with the territory of regular off-road use (and abuse in my case).

Here are photos of the 2nd failure mode (sleeve popping out of pivot joint socket). Symptoms are slop in the steering (shake wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock)

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I like your claw washer solution. It appears to be thicker material as well right?
Nice work!
 
abuck99 said:
I like your claw washer solution. It appears to be thicker material as well right?
Nice work!
Click to expand...
I did not increase the material thickness by any meaningful amount as I wanted to retain as much thread-engagement as possible.
I doubt .5mm would make a huge difference in thread-engagement tho...might play around with thickness when I retrofit an 03-07 rack into my '99
 
abuck99 said:
I like your claw washer solution. It appears to be thicker material as well right?
Nice work!
Click to expand...
Agreed. I think I will throw a set on there
 
Installed some of my new lockout plates so I don’t have to deal with the eccentric cams anymore.

I’m testing the hexagon vs square to see how they differ if at all. Seems like the hex has plenty of engagement with the alignment tabs but only in the max/min position. Both sets are set to ‘max caster’ position, pulling the top of the spindle/knuckle back towards the firewall

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Edit: I ran out of black spray paint lol

Also here’s a link to the cam eliminators for the 100: Cruiser Patch 100 Series Toyota Land Cruiser Alignment Cam Eliminator - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/cruiser-patch-100-series-toyota-land-cruiser-alignment-cam-eliminator-lockout-plate-kits?_pos=2&_sid=e39a5fc5a&_ss=r
 
Been having some worsening rear axle movement so I figured it's time to do something about the rear trailing arms.

When I hit the accelerator the truck veers to the left and when I let off it veers right lol. It's so bad.

Turns out 3-year warrantied bushings from Ironman last pretty much about 3-years. Time to try something else

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Well that's cool

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I'll import a bunch of these bushings since they fit the OE arms and Ironman uppers. The Ironman uppers seem to be hard to find these days. I get lots of orders for them on the site because people think I have them in stock (despite the website saying "call/contact us for inventory").

Anyway, this should help the truck on the road a LOT
 
Update on Ironman arms:

The lowers are the same size bushing as the uppers. I would have ordered more bushings but assumed they would be the same size as OEM lowers- not the case.

Got some new arms on my shelf so those have gone in temporarily while I source more bushings for these bent up lowers.
Will have some decent, lightly used lowers for sale soon.

Check out those bends lol

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PS: Ironman bushings suck but not bad for 3+ years of abuse
 
Been wanting to swap the rear springs for something softer and variable rate at some point.

Now that I've gotten rid of that stupid heavy 60% 2nd row seat I finally have reason to get a shorter spring. The rear is sitting up a little higher than I would prefer so I'll take this chance to changes things up.

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Drilled two holes, cut the carpet in one spot, otherwise the 40% LHD 40% RHD 2nd row mod is bolt-in. Now it really looks like a schmorgous (how tf do you spell that) board in there...

I'll be adding a little weight to the front this weekend- pics to come...

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Currently sitting on OME 2863J's which are 510/520mm tall with a linear rate of 250LB/in.

Next I'm looking at the Dobinsons C97-147VT which are 520/530mm tall (or 545mm tall- conflicting info on their website vs their dealer packet) with a variable rate of 160-285LB/in. Of course I'll get the black ones if I can
 
Scotty UZJ100 said:
So is it bad to just install the hubs and not the t-case stuff or does it not matter?
Click to expand...
The reason I installed the spool in my case was to get rid of the 2-pinion center diff (which I broke).

The part-time aspect was sort of a mechanical necessity because of the spool.

If you only installed the spool the CVs would be rotated by the hub flanges which would rotate the internals of the front diff.

If you only installed the hubs, the center diff would rotate the front driveshaft>front diff which would spin the CVs but without flanges or locked hubs, all power would slip to the front and you wouldn’t be able to drive without the center diff locked. (so no, not recommended)
 
cruiserpatch said:
The reason I installed the spool in my case was to get rid of the 2-pinion center diff (which I broke).

The part-time aspect was sort of a mechanical necessity because of the spool.

If you only installed the spool the CVs would be rotated by the hub flanges which would rotate the internals of the front diff.

If you only installed the hubs, the center diff would rotate the front driveshaft>front diff which would spin the CVs but without flanges or locked hubs, all power would slip to the front and you wouldn’t be able to drive without the center diff locked. (so no, not recommended)
Click to expand...
Ok I miss understood I thought you only did the hubs, but knowledge gained.
 
Update on the spring situation:

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Before: OME 2863J linear springs
  • Free height 506/515mm
  • Weight 16.20Kg
  • FR ~23.25"
  • FL ~23.125"
  • RR ~23.75"
  • RL ~24"
After: Dobinsons C97-147VTB dual/variable rate springs
  • Free height 544/556mm
  • Weight 15.44Kg
  • FR ~22.875" (-3/8")
  • FL ~23.25" (-1/8")
  • RR ~23.25 (-1/2")
  • RL ~23.875 (-1/8")
Post swap I've got a 3/8" lean to the right up front and 5/8-3/4" lean in back/rear.
I'll throw in a trim packer back there to even things out a bit

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Panhard rod looks straight/flat now. The axle sits about 1/4" closer to the frame on the RH side so I may install an adjustable pan hard (not that it really matters much)

I found this spring companion very interesting. The OME springs are heavier and thicker but the Dobs are taller. From one day of running around town I'm not sure I can say which feels "better" but the Dobs definitely flex/articulate more than the OMEs. Mission accomplished.

If anyone needs these 863Js let me know and I'll cut you a deal

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