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Installed a couple goodies over the weekend.
I'll be testing these suckers out to see if they're worth their metal. The pan hard bar will be a great upgrade from the bent factory one I had been running (its days were numbered).

The trailing arms are made of .25" DOM so I would imagine they might bend but we shall find out.
I became a dealer for MC just so I could test out some of their product. According to their reps they have zero interest in producing products for the 100 Series platform as its too low volume.

IMG_4481.webp

MetalCloak GX550 trailing arms (I did not use the provided hardware. OEM or bust)

IMG_4482.webp

MetalCloak 42" GX550 trackbar

My factory bar measured around 43" center-to-center and this 42" bar claims to be adjustable within 3/4"
I needed a bar that was around 42.75" so it worked out perfectly. I bet you could fudge it an extra 1/4" or more without issue.
 
So GX550 arms have same bushing width as our 100s?
 
So GX550 arms have same bushing width as our 100s?
These are the same but MC includes 8x "shoehorn washers" that I did not use which leads me to believe the OE GX550 bushings/clevis is/are wider
 
Hey Patch, I'm not sure if I missed it in your build thread - what diff drop are you running, and what are your thoughts on Trail Tailor vs Dobinsons vs Ironman 4x4? I'm trying to keep my lift under 2", and the parts that are being sent to me by Terrain Tamer are spec'd for such after I get my sliders installed. Is there any specific reason for going one manufacturer over another?
 
Hey Patch, I'm not sure if I missed it in your build thread - what diff drop are you running, and what are your thoughts on Trail Tailor vs Dobinsons vs Ironman 4x4? I'm trying to keep my lift under 2", and the parts that are being sent to me by Terrain Tamer are spec'd for such after I get my sliders installed. Is there any specific reason for going one manufacturer over another?
Most of the diff drops are virtually identical.

For the money, I think the Slee diff drop is the best bang for your buck.

I keep Ironman and SuperPro on my shelf but really don’t have any preference for a particular brand.
 
Yes it IS possible to retrofit a 2003-2007 steering rack into a 1998-2002 truck.

98-02 rack: 44250-60050
03-07 LC rack: 44250-60100
03-07 LX rack: 44250-60120

Why?

  • Removes rear mounting nut & bolt (known to crack upper oil pan in extreme cases. happened on my truck)
  • Option to go with 44250-60120 for 18.0:1 steering ratio rather than 19.8:1
  • Future proof 98-02 rigs (in the event that 44250-60050 goes NLA) and more options
  • The way I did the retrofit allows use of either early or late model style racks
  • So far I've only cracked one OEM 44250-60050 in half but here's to hoping that the newer version doesn't have that problem
IMG_5381.webp

Cut a sleeve and threaded it (M22x1.5)
IMG_5383.webp

Drilled and tapped a hole right at the front captive nut of the RH sliding mount (LH on RHD truck)

IMG_5385.webp

Test fit everything before welding the sleeve into place. Used 9/16" hardware for now (grade 8)

IMG_5389.webp

Checked the stake washers on the inners and I'm glad I did. LH side was not staked all the way.
Replaced with my upgraded claw washers
 
Yes it IS possible to retrofit a 2003-2007 steering rack into a 1998-2002 truck.
Nice work!
  • Option to go with 44250-60120 for 18.0:1 steering ratio rather than 19.8:1
Please; Where you get the ratio info from?
  • Future proof 98-02 rigs (in the event that 44250-60050 goes NLA) and more options
  • The way I did the retrofit allows use of either early or late model style racks
  • So far I've only cracked one OEM 44250-60050 in half but here's to hoping that the newer version doesn't have that problem
View attachment 4214770
Cut a sleeve and threaded it (M22x1.5)
View attachment 4214771
Drilled and tapped a hole right at the front captive nut of the RH sliding mount (LH on RHD truck)

View attachment 4214772
Test fit everything before welding the sleeve into place. Used 9/16" hardware for now (grade 8)

View attachment 4214773
Checked the stake washers on the inners and I'm glad I did. LH side was not staked all the way.
Replaced with my upgraded claw washers
 
Nice work!

Please; Where you get the ratio info from?
I read it deep in the mud abyss a while ago…there’s always a chance I’m incorrect

Edit: I read these in some threads about swapping the LC rack into the LX
 
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I think you retrofitted the wrong steering component...

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  • Haha
Reactions: LJE
Update to this:

The new rack works flawlessly and steering has become noticeably lighter/easier.

Lock-to-lock is around 1-5/8 turns which is about the same as before (confirms my identical ratio hunch)

IMG_4303.webp


Did a driveway alignment (this photo was taken before I jacked up the LCAs to ride-height) and the truck tracks straighter than I've experienced from paying someone to align it...won't be paying for that in the future.
 
Did you maintain the OEM rubber bushings or did you put in the polys?
Rubber for now. Want to prove a point to a friend who thinks the poly killed my previous rack

Rubber vs. Poly seems like a topic that doesn't get talked about enough- specifically the damage poly can invite due to the increase in stress.

With a hit as hard as my rack took I couldn't see it holding up with rubber bushings either.
The biggest issue with rubber rack bushings is that no one wants to pull the rack out every year and replace rubber bushings...poly holds up longer.

But does it cause damage or accentuate pre-existing micro-fractures which lead to premature failure?

 
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