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Patch, just out of curiosity - Have you considered selling or building some sort of sleeve with the tie rod? I keep bending mine.
 
offoradjunkie said:
Patch, just out of curiosity - Have you considered selling or building some sort of sleeve with the tie rod? I keep bending mine.
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It’s definitely on my mind.

I bust them every 6 months now and they’re always bent when I replace them.

Would have to make a 98-02 version and a 03-07 version
 
cruiserpatch said:
It’s definitely on my mind.

I bust them every 6 months now and they’re always bent when I replace them.

Would have to make a 98-02 version and a 03-07 version
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It would be interesting to see a solution that can still allow separation between the inner and outers.
 
Patch and the gang , I need your professional advise on rear springs , please .
I have 2003 LC100. Dobinson IMS shocks all around, extended version in the front . Patch torsion bars , all new bushings in the front and back, extended links for sway bars and so on. I have 167 springs in the rear , but my back sits way too high for my liking . I have rear ARB bumper with tire carrier , no third row seats or drawers in the cargo are ; just some tools nothing crazy . Measurement from hub to fender in the rear is 23 1/4 . My front sits at 21 1/2 , so I would like to bring my back down to achieve that 3/4 rack . I don’t want to increase height in the front Beucase I find most comfort driving at 21 1/2 in the front . Any advice on what rear springs I should buy to be at 22-22 1/2 in the rear . Thank you in advance
 
MrPoopyPants said:
Patch and the gang , I need your professional advise on rear springs , please .
I have 2003 LC100. Dobinson IMS shocks all around, extended version in the front . Patch torsion bars , all new bushings in the front and back, extended links for sway bars and so on. I have 167 springs in the rear , but my back sits way too high for my liking . I have rear ARB bumper with tire carrier , no third row seats or drawers in the cargo are ; just some tools nothing crazy . Measurement from hub to fender in the rear is 23 1/4 . My front sits at 21 1/2 , so I would like to bring my back down to achieve that 3/4 rack . I don’t want to increase height in the front Beucase I find most comfort driving at 21 1/2 in the front . Any advice on what rear springs I should buy to be at 22-22 1/2 in the rear . Thank you in advance
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Add more rear weight or C59-169. If you want to stay with Dobinsons.
Same spring rate but 10mm(0.3937008in) shorter.

They say they are for an 80, but IIRC the 80 springs are interchangeable with the 100s.
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Part-time achieved.

I'm currently in front-wheel-drive as I'm getting three driveshafts made for this wheeling season.
My local driveshaft shop made me a .120 wall tailshaft back in 2023 but I snapped it on a rock. Since then I've been wheeling on stock shafts.

The 98-02 shafts are easily re-tubed according to Driveline Service of North Atlanta but the later model shafts (03-07) are not so simple. Wayne explained that the OEM shafts are made with friction welds where the shaft is spun super fast then jammed into place on the end (u-joint carrier? not sure what it's called).
That process is obviously not ideal for a driveshaft shop. They prefer low-speed welding to re-tube a shaft.

Anyway, all this part-time nonsense brings me to some new questions and theories:

  • The front end 'clunk' is completely gone for the first time since owning the truck (replaced axles, flanges, diff bushings, engine mounts, greased driveshafts, etc but it was still present- not a huge deal but interesting no doubt)
  • I'll be wheeling at the COTR trail cleanup two weekends from now so we'll see how strong the AISIN hubs are...CO replaces the drive gear inside them with a 300M heat-treated part so in theory they're stronger than stock (but are they stronger than a CV?)
  • The weak link in the 100 drivetrain has always been the front diff (ask me how I know) so I'm always looking for ways to strengthen it. Enter part-time kit. Since I'll likely only be using 4WD off-road in extreme settings I'm less worried about NVH in the front-end. I seem to go through the rubber diff bushings pretty quickly these days and I can't help but wonder if the deflection from the rubber contributes to the weakness of the case. I'll be replacing the rubber OE front diff bushings with brass solid spacers soon (gotta get measurements and get prototypes cut). We'll see how this goes *CLUNK*
IMG_0185.webp

Part-time hubs installed
IMG_0835.webp

.120 wall shaft met its maker (well not really, I didn't make it)
 
It's also a lot easier to replace a hub than a CV, and in my experience, I have seen those go before CVs.
That's why all the Aussies use them, fail safe.
 
offoradjunkie said:
It's also a lot easier to replace a hub than a CV, and in my experience, I have seen those go before CVs.
That's why all the Aussies use them, fail safe.
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I hear that argument but with as often as I blow through CVs (4-5 per year) I'd hate to introduce a weaker fuse...
 
offoradjunkie said:
It's also a lot easier to replace a hub than a CV, and in my experience, I have seen those go before CVs.
That's why all the Aussies use them, fail safe.
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I thought the Aussie 105s came stock with manual hubs and the part-time HF1A tcase...
 
The inner gear in our HUBFHT001IFS AISIN hubs is a 4340 HD gear. Like anything, they can be broken, we've not seen a failure yet in the 100/470 realm but 40/60/80/MiniTruck folks have been known to crack even the HD gears with extreme use (think rock-racing, 40's). The outer gear in the HUBFHT001IFS is the stock AISIN gear. They see less wear/failures BUT they can/do fail with extreme use. That gear can be trail swapped in about 10 minutes OR you can upgrade to a chromo gear there too. Next failure is then generally the studs.

I too don't like to introduce a 'fuse' but if there is a weak link, I'd rather it be easy/inexpensive to fix versus something more expensive and difficult.

Tangent, anyone remember Warn introducing actual 'Hub Fuses' for their line of hubs, designed to fail before an axle?

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Dirt J said:
I thought the Aussie 105s came stock with manual hubs and the part-time HF1A tcase...
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Depends on the trim and market. You can get a 100 with part-time (with factory AISIN) or full-time (with drive flange). You can also get a 105 with factory part-time or full-time. And many part-time Land Cruisers still came with drive flanges. Land of options :D
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Depends on the trim and market. You can get a 100 with part-time (with factory AISIN) or full-time (with drive flange). You can also get a 105 with factory part-time or full-time. And many part-time Land Cruisers still came with drive flanges. Land of options :D
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Lots of 70s and 80s that tour and crawl too use part-time hubs for these reasons. Makes sense to me, even though our models here are purposefully full time 4wd, it would be nice sometimes to cruise on the highway then lock the hubs
 
Patch, going back to the steering rack conversation.
Would you ever install something like this billet Tundra rack?
toyo-steering.com

'05-'15 Tacoma Billet Tundra Conversion Rack Kit

Billet Tundra Steering Rack Conversion Kit This is our all-new billet Tundra steering rack conversion kit, it has been redesigned from the ground up to fix the shortcomings of the old rack and deliver the strongest, most reliable steering solution on the market. This new rack fixes every issue...
toyo-steering.com
1772669615290.webp
 
offoradjunkie said:
Patch, going back to the steering rack conversation.
Would you ever install something like this billet Tundra rack?
toyo-steering.com

'05-'15 Tacoma Billet Tundra Conversion Rack Kit

Billet Tundra Steering Rack Conversion Kit This is our all-new billet Tundra steering rack conversion kit, it has been redesigned from the ground up to fix the shortcomings of the old rack and deliver the strongest, most reliable steering solution on the market. This new rack fixes every issue...
toyo-steering.com
Click to expand...
Damn! If money started falling from the sky maybe but at that price point I'd rather SAS with 1-tons or go full hydro steer.
I have never blown a rack apart but seem to keep busting inner tie rod ends. Just comes with the territory now on oversized tires and frequent hard trails.
If the 200 rack was an easy retrofit I'd go that route just to have some more beef internally but it seems from my house that the 03-07 rack might bolt into the 98-02- will be experimenting...
 
Patch have your failures been at the at the ITR pivoting joint or threaded section pulling out where the ITR screws into the rack?
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I found on my 05 the ITR seem to develop some “slop” movement where they thread into the rack end and the locking tab starts to bend and allow for additional movement and eventually that hammering action galls the threads and then failure.
 
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