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RIP center diff…will post more pics when I get in there

I was wrong about the whole “happened in high range” thing- power is sent through the center differential to the output shafts so i might’ve blown it on the trail doing some dumb stuff (which I definitely do)

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Deciding what shocks to try next... the Ironman FCP's have long outlived their usefulness I'm afraid...

Looking at the Dobinsons IMS shocks which claim to be 2.6" rebuildable/valvable monotubes.
I've been running IM FCP 45795FE up front and 45682LFE in the rear with 60mm AHC shock spacers (similar to shock mount chop).

Here are some measurements that I'll be referencing when comparing to the FCPs:

FRONT
Brand NamePart #ExtendedCompressedTravel
Dobinsons IMS "Extended"6078618.5"/470mm12.4"/315mm6.10"/155mm
Dobinsons IMS6078217.9"/455mm12.3"/313mm5.59"/142mm
Ironman Foam Cell Pro45795FE17.6"/447mm11.6"/295mm5.98"/152mm
Fox985-24-06617.78"/451mm11.59"/294mm6.03"/157mm
Fox (80 Series shock)985-24-07025.1"/637mm15"/381mm10"/256mm
Toyota 100 AHC ('98-'99)48510-6912619.5"/495mm13.75"/349mm5.75"/146mm
Toyota 100 AHC ('00-'07)48510-6912719.5"/495mm13.75"/349mm5.75"/146mm
Toyota mark 48511-6051248511-6958519.375"/492mm13.5"/343mm5.875"/149mm

REAR
Brand NamePart #ExtendedCompressedTravel
Dobinsons IMS6068573044611.2"/284mm
Dobinsons IMS6068768042110.2"/259mm
Dobinsons IMS606826103898.7"/221mm
Ironman Foam Cell Pro45796FE6154018.4"/214mm
Ironman Foam Cell Pro45682LFE67040910.27"/261mm
Icon CDCV66840110.51"/267mm
King25.7"/652mm15.7"/398mm10"/254mm
Fox985-24-12423.87"/606mm15.25"/387mm8.62"/219mm
Fox985-24-08727.58"/700mm16.7"/424mm10.63"/270mm
Fox985-24-07325.48"/647mm15.6"/396mm9.63"/244mm
Fox (Universal)985-24-00926.48"/672mm16.1"/409mm10.13"/257mm
Toyota 200 AHC48530-6941526.25"17.75"8.5"/216mm
Toyota 200 AHC48530-69425
Toyota 100 AHC ('98-'99)48530-69106*25"16.5"8.5"/216mm
Toyota 100 AHC ('00-'02)48530-6910725"16.5"8.5"/216mm
Toyota 100 AHC ('03-'07)48530-69155
Toyota 300 AHC48530-80B06
Toyota 300 AHC48530-80B0727.625"/701mm18.125"/460mm9.5"/241mm
Toyota mark 48531-6068248531-6983525"/635mm16"/406mm9"/229mm
*NOTE: 48530-69106 has a smaller ID and is NOT interchangeable with other later model AHC shocks. 01.1998-03.1999 AHC equipped 100 Series will NOT be able to be retrofitted with later model AHC shocks due to this change unless the soft lines leading to the shocks are also replaced.

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More travel does NOT equal better performance if some of that travel is unusable (I'm busting CV's at full steering lock so maximizing droop will create more problems up front). I'll also need to make sure I'm not reducing my up travel any more than I have to. The 100 has such little front travel to begin with, that reducing it unnecessarily will only make the ride even worse...
 
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The fact that Dobinsons are rebuildable convinced me. Although I will say they are not as plush or comfy on road as I thought they would be and I was coming from Radflos with external res
 
I was going to go with Bilstein B8-5160s but looking at droop numbers from the others I think you might have too much intended wheel travel for these.

But also if you know the numbers you want you could go universal.
 
I was going to go with Bilstein B8-5160s but looking at droop numbers from the others I think you might have too much intended wheel travel for these.

But also if you know the numbers you want you could go universal.
Universal or custom seems to be the right way to do it-

I don't understand why so many manufacturers choose the numbers they do- considering the IMS front shocks for a 100, they are worse than FCPs from a numbers perspective. Either more total travel with too much down travel or less total travel but at least its a monotube.

I'm sure shock construction has something to do with it but when your front end is already limited in travel by its design, why inhibit the range even more?

Time to remove my t-bars and take some measurements...
 
Maintenance.

January 2025 I replaced my steering rack with new OEM.

In June 2025 I replaced the RH inner tie rod (blew out the inner sleeve). December 2025 replaced the LH inner tie rod due to the same issue-

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I also replaced the RH spindle/knuckle (again) because it was bent (again)

IMG_4302.webp


I also replaced my poly steering rack bushings for the second time this year. User error- somehow I had installed the wrong size washers which were chewing up the bushings
 
Maintenance.

January 2025 I replaced my steering rack with new OEM.

In June 2025 I replaced the RH inner tie rod (blew out the inner sleeve). December 2025 replaced the LH inner tie rod due to the same issue-

View attachment 4044388

I also replaced the RH spindle/knuckle (again) because it was bent (again)

View attachment 4044393

I also replaced my poly steering rack bushings for the second time this year. User error- somehow I had installed the wrong size washers which were chewing up the bushings
quite the year 🤶
 
Maintenance.

January 2025 I replaced my steering rack with new OEM.

In June 2025 I replaced the RH inner tie rod (blew out the inner sleeve). December 2025 replaced the LH inner tie rod due to the same issue-

View attachment 4044388

I also replaced the RH spindle/knuckle (again) because it was bent (again)

View attachment 4044393

I also replaced my poly steering rack bushings for the second time this year. User error- somehow I had installed the wrong size washers which were chewing up the bushings
Did you go with Toyota or Lexus rack? From what I understand there are different ratios, one is better for offroading but I cant remember which is which
 
Did you go with Toyota or Lexus rack? From what I understand there are different ratios, one is better for offroading but I cant remember which is which
From a quick search, looks like 44250-60050 is the 01.1998-03.1999 pn for 98-99 LC/LX (and what I used).

44250-60060 used by FZJ100 and HDJ100
44250-60070 used by LX470 (UZJ100) between 03.1999-08.2002

From most US Toyota dealers, 44250-60050 is the only available option for 98-02 UZJ100 but I bet you could get a 44250-60070 from Lexus.

I'm curious if the other racks have different ratios as that could be a potential upgrade (if only I knew someone who could import some from Japan...)

The 2003+ LX vs LC debate is pretty hot and the differences are documented: LC versus LX Steering Rack ? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lc-versus-lx-steering-rack.951503/page-2#post-10984004
 
Wife doesn't like the 80. Too moldy and I don't have anywhere to fix it (bigger problem).

From a customer on mold removal:

"
All upper ad door trim had mold staining. Used the gel bleach from Home Depot and scrubbed with a green pad and let em sit (1-2 hours). Deactivate bleach with an 1/8 water peroxide mixture stayed on. It will foam
Up a bit. Got that tip from Clorox web site….cool.
"

I'll keep an 80 one day but this one requires more work than I'm able to provide at the moment.

Classifieds ad: For Sale - Atlanta: 1997 Lexus LX450 w/ blown head gasket & 1998 LX470 donor - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/atlanta-1997-lexus-lx450-w-blown-head-gasket-1998-lx470-donor.1373413/

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Patch, did you swap your rear axle for a locked one? And if so, what was the difficulty level?
Curious to know your take since there's one for sale local to me and I recently received a quote for airlockers and was mind-boggled by the price.
I am pretty good at wrenching on my 100. I have done all the maintenance besides a tranny swap up to this point.
 
Patch, did you swap your rear axle for a locked one? And if so, what was the difficulty level?
Curious to know your take since there's one for sale local to me and I recently received a quote for airlockers and was mind-boggled by the price.
I am pretty good at wrenching on my 100. I have done all the maintenance besides a tranny swap up to this point.
I did swap a locked '98 rear axle into my '99 LX470.

The 98/99 LX and LC unlocked are pre-wired to receive a locked rear axle. All you need is the ABS/actuator harness, diff lock ECU, axle, and a switch. Takes about 3-4 hours start to finish the first time. I could probably do it in 60 minutes if I had a lift
\1-2 bannan job

2000-2002 are still a direct fit but require additional wiring and you have to add a bracket for the 4th brake line (ATRAC added a line to the rear axle).
Some people elect to modify the 2000-2002 axle housings to accept the locked 3rd member of the 98/99 w/ locker. Jury's out if that's easier or not. I have done both on customer vehicles and prefer swapping the housing so long as the mileage is decent /its not leaking from the seals etc.
\2-4 banana job

2003+ have a 4.10 gear ratio so in order to swap a factory locked 3rd or housing into an '03+ truck you'll either need to regear both diffs or just the front. You can pretty easily source a 4.30 front diff (98-02) but it would be a good opportunity to put a locker in your 2003 4.10 if you regear it at the same time.
ABS/ATRAC line still required on 2003+ as well as modifying the axle housing if you only swap in the 3rd
\2-4 banana job but takes longer

Personally if I had to do it all over again I would just get ARBs front and rear. The OEM lockers have lots of issues which are well documented by the 80 series guys. ARBs also have issues though so its all about what kind of trouble shooting you want to do down the road...
 
Thanks, Patch. Considering I have a '03 and not a lot of space to work on my vehicle, I may pass on this deal and save for air lockers.
Sounds like a lot of work and time for a mediocre solution.
 
Working on a gen 3 bump stop install from @PerryParts

Swapped them in with the same setup as before (2x .5” bricks above) to have a 1:1 comfort comparison. These new ones ride SO well and compress progressively unlike the AB4R (gen 2).

I’ll remove the spacers and hopefully be able to screw the bumps all the way in when i get the chance. The gaps pictured are NOT ideal- I just couldn’t tighten them all the way on my back

Hit some local speed bumps at 55mph to test. Super pleased with these

(ignore the axle seal leak and ABS sensor leak)

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