Pass drop T Case for 1987 4runner (1 Viewer)

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Do you know that would bolt up to a 4runner transmission?
No, it will not.

Go measure the 80 rear pinion and your tcase to see how much offset you'll end up with. The 80 rear is only offset ~3-5/8", you might be surprised how close they are.

Other than owning the 80 rear, why do you want to run it? Yes I know the benefits of them, just need some good reason to swap.
 
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No, it will not.

Go measure the 80 rear pinion and your tcase to see how much offset you'll end up with. The 80 rear is only offset ~3", you might be surprised how close they are.

Other than owning the 80 rear, why do you want to run it? Yes I know the benefits of them, just need some good reason to swap.
I am doing a SAS on the 4runner with a FJ80 front axle. Since that is happening I wanted to match the rear so I wasnt around 8 inches wider in the front then the rear. I am also going to be running 37s and wheeling my truck hard so I figured upgrading to the bigger rear would serve me well.
 
Are you set on Toyota axle matching set? GM/Chevy uses the same 6 bolt pattern and center diff. I believe the 14b can be found in a 63" width which seems tempting when it comes to the cost of customizing an fj80 axle vs tossing in a stock 14b with a gear change. Pretty sure that would be more than strong enough for a tr4 with 37s.
 
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Still I wouldnt be able to use anything I already have. I have everything to build the axle.
 
I've been there before. At that point I weight out how much would it cost me to make the fj80 axle work vs selling it off (used 80 axles don't come cheap) vs obtaining a 14b. I want 80 axles for a disco 2 build. When they come available they are insanely priced and go quicky. A 14b almost falls out of a tree if you shake it hard enough.


Everyone wants an 80 axle.
 
The rear axle shafts on the 87 4 runner are the same length on each side. When removed they fit nicely in the trunk of a VW with no room to spare on either side. Its much closer to being centered in the LC axles.
 
does anyone know exactly how many inches the 80 series rear is off set?
 
I am in a similar situation except I plan to put a 3rd gen pickup cab on an 80 series frame so I can keep the coils, have a stronger frame, and get the wheelbase I am after. Because I plan on running dual geared transfer cases from a pickup, I am trying to decide whether to run an angled driveshaft or change the rear to leafs and use a Tacoma or even a Tundra rear. If you have the room, I don't see anything wrong with the angled driveshaft. I have seen a few threads out there where people claim no vibes. For me, it seems easier to just run the 80 rear as it is, especially because it's already there. For your build, you have to cut off the link and coil hardware and weld on perches. A lot of work to still end up offset. A full floater 80 rear is easy to sell unless already modified for leafs. Whatever you do,I hope you post up a build thread here
 
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So far the axle housing is still factory mounts. Would anyone be interested in a FJ80 series axle housing and brand new Nitro Gear and Axle 30 spline chromly shafts if I decide to go with a new housing? I just got a qoute from Front Range for the housing built with new spindles for 1750. Pretty steep so Id need to sell the stuff I have.
 
does anyone know exactly how many inches the 80 series rear is off set?
~3-5/8".

Shafts are 7-1/4" different, and the pinion on either axle isn't completely in the center of the diff. This is why I mentioned you should go measure. Even if it is 3-1/2" you'll be fine with a regular driveshaft
 
I havent had a chance to get out to where the housing are to measure so I was hoping some might know. So you think if the diff center is 3.5 inches or less from the center of the housing Ill be fine running the centered T case and the factory 80 series housing?
 
Rough measure in the rain and the pinion it ~4.5" offset. Also throw the stock shafts back in and keep the Nitro's for spares, they are weaker than stock shafts and have heard difficult to get warrantied.
 
Run a CV joint at the t case and 0 degree vertical angle at the pinion. 4" horizontal offset will be a little less than 4° over a 50" shaft. I doubt there would be any vibration there on a properly built driveshaft at realistic speeds.

What tire size and axle gear ratio are we talking?
 
I am running 37x13.5 and 5.29. I dont know how long the drive shaft will be yet.
 
So I got out and measured this morning. It looks like the center of the diff is offset from the center of the housing about 7.5 inches. So do you guys think thats to much for the drive shaft to angle over?
 
So I got out and measured this morning. It looks like the center of the diff is offset from the center of the housing about 7.5 inches. So do you guys think thats to much for the drive shaft to angle over?
correction the diff center is actually just slightly more than 3.5 inches off of the axle housing center.
 
If the pinion and Tcase output are parallel a standard driveshaft doesn’t care what direction it’s pointing. I think As long as you don’t exceed the operating angle you should be fine.

Not sure you’d want a double cardon as the pinion would need to be pointing at the Tcase output.
 
You won't want to run a CV shaft, regular shaft will be fine.

Also, measure the pinion offset, it is offset to the differential. Or don't worry about it and have no issues, that's what I would be doing.
 
I am just trying to avoid putting a axle under there then taking it back out because of vibrations. Seems like people are saying it should be to bad though so I am leaning towards running the factory axle housing.
 

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