$10 + shipping depending on area code.....
Power Steering Res Cap 93-97 [44305-35010-U] - $10.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
Parts Question: Power Steering Cap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rolliges
- Start date
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Power Steering Res Cap 93-97 [44305-35010-U] - $10.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
Definitely one hell of a deal compared to everyone else, but it says used so hopefully the gasket is in good condition. If not I'll be returning it.
This is an ad for a used cap which would be an upgrade if you didnt have one at all.
This is an ad for a used cap which would be an upgrade if you didnt have one at all.
I might as well not have one, I’ve lost 3 quarts of power steering fluid over the past 2 months.
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Good luck returning it to Cruiserparts.......
I actually cancelled my order because I don't want to mess around with used parts. Knowing my luck I'd be right back in the same boat leaking power steering fluid everywhere. With no warranty, I'll buy a new one for $6 more.
From McGeorge Toyota a few minutes ago.
44305-35030. This is the reservoir cap.
See above....
Thanks bud!
I recently replaced all PS hoses and reservoir on my LX450 with OEM parts. The low pressure hoses were from Wits End.
I was always seeping some PS fluid on top of the reservoir and one of the high pressure hoses was starting to weep excessively, so I replaced the whole shebang which was now 21+ years old.
No more leaks, no more fluid on top of the reservoir, and the cap seals MUCH better. Probably good for another 21 years.
She turns left AND right now, which is just fantastic.
I was always seeping some PS fluid on top of the reservoir and one of the high pressure hoses was starting to weep excessively, so I replaced the whole shebang which was now 21+ years old.
No more leaks, no more fluid on top of the reservoir, and the cap seals MUCH better. Probably good for another 21 years.
She turns left AND right now, which is just fantastic.
96FZJ80
SILVER Star
I got a quote from the dealership to replace the PS pump, return hose, feed hose, etc..for $1924 (I'm just assuming fluid would be included). A little incentive for me to take a close look.
While what I believe is the pump (just below the oil filter?) looks wet there are no drips on the ground ever. And everything from the top of the reservoir down looks wet as well. And anywhere near the reservoir looks wet - including the side of the battery box - like it's been spraying out. Should it be under enough pressure to be spraying out if the seal on the cap is bad?
Never any hard steering, never any noise out of it even at full right or left. Fluid level is just on the tip of the dipstick right now cold so I can top that up a bit.
I see on old paperwork from before I owned it that the power steering pump was replaced once in '04 at 86k miles at an independent shop and then again in '11 at 150k miles at a Land Cruiser Specialist shop. No idea if the pump, reservoir, etc.. is OEM or not. At 235k now.
I'm going to replace the reservoir cap with one from Toyota (but I don't know if the reservoir itself is OEM). What product and/or method can I use to clean (what I assume is ATF) up on everything so I can tell if it continues to leak, and of so, from where?
While what I believe is the pump (just below the oil filter?) looks wet there are no drips on the ground ever. And everything from the top of the reservoir down looks wet as well. And anywhere near the reservoir looks wet - including the side of the battery box - like it's been spraying out. Should it be under enough pressure to be spraying out if the seal on the cap is bad?
Never any hard steering, never any noise out of it even at full right or left. Fluid level is just on the tip of the dipstick right now cold so I can top that up a bit.
I see on old paperwork from before I owned it that the power steering pump was replaced once in '04 at 86k miles at an independent shop and then again in '11 at 150k miles at a Land Cruiser Specialist shop. No idea if the pump, reservoir, etc.. is OEM or not. At 235k now.
I'm going to replace the reservoir cap with one from Toyota (but I don't know if the reservoir itself is OEM). What product and/or method can I use to clean (what I assume is ATF) up on everything so I can tell if it continues to leak, and of so, from where?
- Thread starter
- #32
Oil almost always flows down (and then back); that cap is definitely leaking.
Looks like you could save $1900 easily.
Looks like you could save $1900 easily.
The pump is likely cavitating, which increases the volume of fluid in the system and forces some out the cap. You could rebuild the pump if you know what you're doing, or you can get one from the dealer or aftermarket (rockauto.com sells some) if you want, but it may not be necessary. You likely do need the 4 hoses and the o-ring that seals the input line on the pump, at the very least. Often a leak at the feed line or that o-ring previously mentioned causes the cavitation. If you want to go totally OCD on it, rebuild or replace the pump and have the steering box rebuilt and clean out the reservoir screen as well, along with replacing all 4 hoses.
A new cap wouldn't hurt, but it likely won't solve your problem.
A new cap wouldn't hurt, but it likely won't solve your problem.
- Thread starter
- #34
I had issues too.
Changed the low pressure hose (easy); exchanged fluids (search) was effective; added a capful of fabric softener to new fluid (search); bought new cap.
No more problems. No sounds, no drips, ....
Have high pressure line in hand waiting for future issues.
Changed the low pressure hose (easy); exchanged fluids (search) was effective; added a capful of fabric softener to new fluid (search); bought new cap.
No more problems. No sounds, no drips, ....
Have high pressure line in hand waiting for future issues.
I would wash that area off, then start the engine, turn the steering wheel for
a few seconds, turn the engine off, then start taking photos (with flash) looking for where the leak(s) first appear.
If you see a leak near the high pressure line banjo bolt union it could be
from the dual crush washer at that location. If that crush washer was not replaced at the same time as the pump, it will eventually leak.
Another common leak is at the suction pipe that bolts to the side of the pump (follow the larger hose from the bottom of the reservoir down to the pump).
There's a small O-ring at that location that hardens and leaks, an easy fix, just remove the 10mm bolt and pull the pipe out (fluid will drain from the reservoir) and replace the O-ring, put the pipe back in place, done.
a few seconds, turn the engine off, then start taking photos (with flash) looking for where the leak(s) first appear.
If you see a leak near the high pressure line banjo bolt union it could be
from the dual crush washer at that location. If that crush washer was not replaced at the same time as the pump, it will eventually leak.
Another common leak is at the suction pipe that bolts to the side of the pump (follow the larger hose from the bottom of the reservoir down to the pump).
There's a small O-ring at that location that hardens and leaks, an easy fix, just remove the 10mm bolt and pull the pipe out (fluid will drain from the reservoir) and replace the O-ring, put the pipe back in place, done.
96FZJ80
SILVER Star
Thanks folks. Just ran it enough to get everything up to temp and then parked it and left the engine running. Turned the wheel hard left reaching arm thru the window and watched the reservoir to see if I could see any spray/leak around the cap. Nothing. Little change in rpm it sounded like but no abnormal noise from the pump or leak at the cap.
Once I get the new cap on I'll clean everything up top and down below then run it lock to lock and see if I can find any leaks anywhere.
Would you mind confirming for me that the o-ring referenced is 44337A in the drawing
And the double crush washers referenced is 44411D?
Really appreciate the help.
Once I get the new cap on I'll clean everything up top and down below then run it lock to lock and see if I can find any leaks anywhere.
Would you mind confirming for me that the o-ring referenced is 44337A in the drawing
And the double crush washers referenced is 44411D?
Really appreciate the help.
Those are correct. A word of advice- unless there's a reason to, don't mess with the crush washers. The fitting (part number 44308 in your image) will often come out of the pump instead of just the bolt (part number 44411C), sometimes destroying the high pressure line banjo fitting.
If you do attempt this, get a wrench on part #44308 to hold it in place.
If you do attempt this, get a wrench on part #44308 to hold it in place.
I have a new OEM cap if any one wants it. Got it whole sale or $20. $15 shipped, I want to pay good karma forward.
- Thread starter
- #39
Oil rarely, if ever, migrates against gravity.
When you get your new cap compare the new gasket with what the old cap has.
With the motor on and cap off, turning the steering wheel side to side will spurt oil out of the reservoir, the pliable gasket prevents this.
Enjoy your new PS cap!
If you've still got it, I'll take it. Shipping to Point Roberts, WA. Paypal good? Thanks.
