Parts list - 2nd battery (1 Viewer)

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Mar 28, 2003
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OK....it's time to install the 2nd battery. Those of you who have done this, if you happened to have a complete parts list, it would be greatly appreciated! Looked at the other threads, which I'll use as an install guide, but it sure would be nice to know all the things I need in one place.

Sure wish Christo would just put together a 'kit' of all that is required (already rtelocated the washer bottle....)
 
soon
 
Well it would help if you indicated which route you were taking :doh: :flipoff2:

You going isolator route or something else like hellroaring?

If isolator, are you running anything through a marine type switch etc? Details dude, give us details.

Mine is pretty basic. Lots of wire, good lugs, surepower isolator, 2 batts etc. what details do you need?
 
If isolator, are you running anything through a marine type switch etc? Details dude, give us details.

My preference would be to avoid the Marine switch route, but I'm not opposed to it. My objectives in going w/ 2nd battery are:
* Self Jump capability
* Re-route all auxiliary equipment to 2nd battery:
- all lights (3 sets)
- NAV / GPS
- 12v outlets
- Audio
- Aux block
* Charge both when running, isolate when off

I do not forsee a winch on this vehicle in the near future, BTW.

You use a Hellroaring, if I recall: which one? ANd why THAT (Surepower) isolater?
It appears that a Hellroaring 75300a and the 'remote module' would accomplish objectives above..agreed? OTHERWISE...(back to the original question) a suggested parts list would be appreciated...AS WELL AS recommendations on whether or not there are Alternator considerations before undertaking this upgrade.
 
bkgii, so are you saying that with a switch, you could not self-jump? I would think if one battery is dead, flip the switch and crank on the other battery, no?
 
I don’t use the Hellroaring. I run the Surepower isolator instead. A late friend of mine ran the Hellroaring and loved it though.

Setting it up isn’t that complicated. In my truck the marine switch dictates which battery, or none or both sends juice to the starter. If battery 1 is dead, the put the switch on 2 and start it with that battery etc. It’s jump start capability without using jumper cables, and I must say that I have used that numerous times. Any time I park the truck for long periods or at the airport, I always set it to none. Sounds like a dead battery and while any thief could figure it out it would just be one more obstacle they’d have to deal with.

The majority of my accessories and remote power distribution block are connected to the second battery.

I personally don’t think there is really any need to upgrade the alt. to a high power Mean Green etc.

So all you really need is the 2nd battery, isolator, cables, switch, terminals etc and a 2nd battery tray.
 
Someone here posted that they tested the mean green alternators and they did not deliver much more amps than the stock alternator. You only have to put back into the batteries what you take out and a battery cannot instantly take a full change, it takes time, some batteries less than others. I would not bother with a "high output" alternator just because of batteries.

I am not much for the diode-based isolators, they take a small toll in voltage reducing the level of charge the battery gets. But they will give the batteries enough charge to operate as proven by the many that use them just not ideal IMO

I used a solenoid controlled by the alternator good signal to automatically close it with engine stop/start. The main battery is kept pristine for starting, the aux abused for engine off loads, also have a switch in the cab (modified rear heat switch to match the rest of the dash) to disable the solenoid (always isolated) or manual parallel for self jump using both batteries, starting off the aux battery alone without the main battery requires popping the hood and swapping batteries, would only want to start of the aux alone if the main was completely dead. That should not happen but if it does then I have to wrench for a few minutes. A trade off, simpler wiring vs a feature I will not likely need

Still not done yet, :(, need to pull the cluster out (again), take care of some small items like replacing the original block ground bolt and washer (corrosion), add a 6awg body ground and delete the redundant factory grounds. Find some rubber covers for all the + connections and possibly seal up some of the grounds to prevent future rust of the bare steel.
 
Raven, you wouldn't mind sharing a wiring diagram, would you...as well as the Solenoid you're using?

Also, I'm not understand the 'trade-off' you're referring to.....are you saying you achieved simpler wiring at the expense of NOT being able to start from the AUX batter alone?
 
I sudjest getting more cable then you think you will need
 
bkgiii said:
Raven, you wouldn't mind sharing a wiring diagram, would you...as well as the Solenoid you're using?





post# 86 has a basic diagram not many details and I added some things at the last minuts, lots of other info in that thread also including the blue sea solenoid I used and a lot of other peoples setups and experience.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=21649

earlier diagram in this thread from this summer post #33

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=21100


Also, I'm not understand the 'trade-off' you're referring to.....are you saying you achieved simpler wiring at the expense of NOT being able to start from the AUX batter alone?


yes
 
bkgiii said:
Raven, you wouldn't mind sharing a wiring diagram, would you...as well as the Solenoid you're using?

Also, I'm not understand the 'trade-off' you're referring to.....are you saying you achieved simpler wiring at the expense of NOT being able to start from the AUX batter alone?

bkgiii,

I believe Raven is saying that he can self jump from the Aux battery except under the highly unlikely condition where the main battery is so completely dead that it cannot trigger a relay. If the main battery is drained to the point where it cannot start the vehicle, it would still be able to trip a relay.

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
bkgiii,

I believe Raven is saying that he can self jump from the Aux battery except under the highly unlikely condition where the main battery is so completely dead that it cannot trigger a relay. If the main battery is drained to the point where it cannot start the vehicle, it would still be able to trip a relay.

-B-


Not quite, got that situation covered, power for self jump to close the solenoid comes from the aux battery, the main battery can be 100% dead, 0v and still parallel them both to start from the aux battery,

if the aux battery is dead then self jump will not work, starting power in that case would have to come from the main battery the solenoid will close when the alternator comes on (switch permitting) , that OK because you would not want to try to self jump from a dead battery anyway.

What I cannot do is connect the aux battery to the starter separate and alone from the main battery,

So from the drivers seat I can start from

Battery #1
Or
Battery #1 plus Battery #2 in parallel

But cannot start from battery #2 alone without grabbing wrenches and popping the hood.

Being able to start of the aux alone is a feature some build in, they way I plan to use my cruiser I could not think of a good reason to go through added parts to get that feature.

Hope that’s clear?
 
Raven, I need to check out your setup-aren't too many dual batts 80's running around atlanta. Ever think about showing to a GA Cruisers meeting? 7:30 first tuesday of every month at the Brandy House. Or I could just meet you somewhere. Davids shop perhaps? Don't know how busy you are..

Thanks!
 
OK....I think I'm clear now...

After re-reading the posts, and listening to these comments, I'm leaning more toward the Hellroaring setup for simplicity if nothing else. Seems to me that's the easiest way to go to accomplish the objectives (Self jump, re-reoute auxiliary eq to Bat #2, charge both when running). SOunds like the marine switch method would only add the ability to start from ONLY battery 2, which I don't think I need.
 
CruisinGA said:
Raven, I need to check out your setup-aren't too many dual batts 80's running around atlanta. Ever think about showing to a GA Cruisers meeting? 7:30 first tuesday of every month at the Brandy House. Or I could just meet you somewhere. Davids shop perhaps? Don't know how busy you are..

Thanks!


I have been wanting to go to a GA cruisers meeting but I work second shift. (need >15 years seniority to hold day shift)

been planning on taking one of these tusedays off, there is another member neer by that wants to go also.

march 1st would be the next then correct?
 
I ordered the Hellroaring setup yesterday. Mike, who answers the phone there, was very helpful and spent 15 minutes going over the pros and cons of each system they sell. I ended up with the 95300B with a remote switch. It isn't quite a complete system-they give you all the electronics and connectors, but you have to source the wire locally.
 
RavenTai said:
I have been wanting to go to a GA cruisers meeting but I work second shift. (need >15 years seniority to hold day shift)

been planning on taking one of these tusedays off, there is another member neer by that wants to go also.

march 1st would be the next then correct?

Yep that is correct.

Hope to see you (and your truck) there! :cheers:
 
put in for that day, I'll be there, went to a meeting several years ago long before I got a cruiser, good group of folks.
 

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