Part numbers - HDJ81 a/c system (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Martin White
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Just to keep this up to date for HDJ81 owners:
The main expansion valve Denso 475-0107 has been superceded by 475-2002. I ordered a -0107 from a vendor on Amazon and received a -2002 so that threw me off. It's physically different internally and stamped R134a but apparently that's common now due to requirements, I'll update this if it gives me any grief.
I did my center console fridge expansion valve as well, that was Denso 475-0103. That's also been superceded by 475-2006 but when I ordered -0103 I did actually receive it. Pay attention to the setup of the factory one upon removal so you can match it. According to instructions with the valve the bulb is actually supposed to directly contact the exit/low pressure tube but the factory setup had it wrapped in neoprene and therefore somewhat isolated, I made it touch a bit metal-to-metal when I put the new one in so we'll see. The "metal cord" was much longer on these so I coiled it circles near the main body before re-wrapping with the adhesive neoprene.
Speaking of adhesive neoprene, I highly recommend getting a variety of widths/thicknesses from this brand because it's CRAZY sticky! I used the 1/4"x1/8" thick to fill in where the factory seals totally collapsed on the cooler assembly, if I had more variety I would have replaced all the seals entirely so some different sizes/thicknesses are now on order such as 3/8" thick x 3/4" and 2" widths. I've had good luck with this on softer foam areas like the flaps that seal the fresh/recirc flaps in the blower motor:
It appears as though new aftermarket HDJ81 evaporator cores are available from Australia, $300 delivered currently, looks like they're made by a company called Ashdown-Ingram P/N EVX622 and are mostly on eBay.au.
EDIT: I had to replace my compressor, again. The first time I used DENSO 471-1433 which worked but required me to rewire with the proper connector. This time I went with DENSO 471-1141 which was $100 cheaper and had the right connector (no rewiring required). Both come with Mineral Oil for R12 systems, I'm using FrostyCool R12a in my system which is compatible with both oils so it's a perfect choice if you don't know what oil is in an old car (and it's way more environmentally friendly).
The main expansion valve Denso 475-0107 has been superceded by 475-2002. I ordered a -0107 from a vendor on Amazon and received a -2002 so that threw me off. It's physically different internally and stamped R134a but apparently that's common now due to requirements, I'll update this if it gives me any grief.
I did my center console fridge expansion valve as well, that was Denso 475-0103. That's also been superceded by 475-2006 but when I ordered -0103 I did actually receive it. Pay attention to the setup of the factory one upon removal so you can match it. According to instructions with the valve the bulb is actually supposed to directly contact the exit/low pressure tube but the factory setup had it wrapped in neoprene and therefore somewhat isolated, I made it touch a bit metal-to-metal when I put the new one in so we'll see. The "metal cord" was much longer on these so I coiled it circles near the main body before re-wrapping with the adhesive neoprene.
Speaking of adhesive neoprene, I highly recommend getting a variety of widths/thicknesses from this brand because it's CRAZY sticky! I used the 1/4"x1/8" thick to fill in where the factory seals totally collapsed on the cooler assembly, if I had more variety I would have replaced all the seals entirely so some different sizes/thicknesses are now on order such as 3/8" thick x 3/4" and 2" widths. I've had good luck with this on softer foam areas like the flaps that seal the fresh/recirc flaps in the blower motor:
It appears as though new aftermarket HDJ81 evaporator cores are available from Australia, $300 delivered currently, looks like they're made by a company called Ashdown-Ingram P/N EVX622 and are mostly on eBay.au.
EDIT: I had to replace my compressor, again. The first time I used DENSO 471-1433 which worked but required me to rewire with the proper connector. This time I went with DENSO 471-1141 which was $100 cheaper and had the right connector (no rewiring required). Both come with Mineral Oil for R12 systems, I'm using FrostyCool R12a in my system which is compatible with both oils so it's a perfect choice if you don't know what oil is in an old car (and it's way more environmentally friendly).
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Hello. I'm hoping to find out whether the mounting position of your cool box TXV bulb ended up resulting in good cool box performance? I'm in the process of installing a Denso 475-0103 TXV in the cool box on my 1991 HDJ81. I'm a bit confused about the factory position of the original TXV bulb. The bulb was strapped to the high pressure inlet pipe of the evaporator. From all I can glean from my A/C research, a TXV bulb is supposed to make firm metal to metal contact with the OUTLET pipe of an evaporator. The factory bulb had an insulating sleeve on it that would prevent such contact. Just wondering how I should position the bulb of the new TXV, and whether I should put the insulating sleeve on the the new bulb. Any guidance would be much appreciated. I'll attach a couple pics.
Original TXV
New Txv installed with sensing bulb positioned where factory bulb was positioned
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My reference charts are telling me that RHD FZJ80, HDJ80 and HDJ81 all use the same evaporator
I had the same head-scratching concerns! I installed mine in the factory position, WITHOUT the weird insulating sleeve (but I did wrap everything back up together to insulate the assembly again), and it's been working great.
Make sure you get all the connectors reattached upon install or it won't work and you'll have to mostly tear it out again to get at those connectors--that was fun. To make it more confusing, I think I actually forgot the one that comes out with the unit which you must disconnect to break it in half so it's not even a connector that strictly requires disconnect to remove the assembly!
Use that adhesive neoprene I mention above to recreate the sealing surfaces where the hoses and drain pierce thru the interior to the underbody.
Make sure you get all the connectors reattached upon install or it won't work and you'll have to mostly tear it out again to get at those connectors--that was fun. To make it more confusing, I think I actually forgot the one that comes out with the unit which you must disconnect to break it in half so it's not even a connector that strictly requires disconnect to remove the assembly!
Use that adhesive neoprene I mention above to recreate the sealing surfaces where the hoses and drain pierce thru the interior to the underbody.
Thanks for the helpful guidance! Much appreciated. I'll follow your lead. Just to clarify, you wrapped the new neoprene around the bulb and pipe, encasing them together in neoprene?
Yes, exactly.
The cool box evaporator (88501-60070) seems to be discontinued. But there's an online Japanese parts supplier called Impex that looks to still have some.
Bumping an old thread for some assistance.
My AC compressor is definitely going out, the bearings are going bad. I can hear it when it cycles on that it's not long for this world, and I'd like to proactively replace it before it pukes crap into the system.
It's a 1992 HDJ81, so can folks confirm that the
Denso 471-1141
is the correct replacement compressor?Appx. $200 from Amazon / ebay?
Would most folks recommend replacing the expansion valve and dryer at the same time?
If so, that's:
475-2002 - Expansion valve
4780107 - Drier?
It's blowing cold as heck, and I do have the center console icebox which is also working like a champ. I'd be inclined to just replace the compressor, but looking for opinions.
Thanks!
@JettaGLi16v , not sure on the compressor or the expansion valve (perhaps check PartSouq or ToyoDIY for some guidance on part numbers if you haven't already), but I know for sure that best practice for A/C systems is that any time you open up your A/C system (i.e. to replace components, hoses, or anything else) that you should replace the drier (Denso 478-0107 A/C Receiver Drier/Accumulator), no questions asked, as it is a relatively inexpensive part and will protect your A/C from moisture.
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER VANHDJ81V-RNPGX - ELECTRICAL - | Japan Parts EU
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER VANHDJ81V-RNPGX
for part numbers
@JettaGLi16v What refrigerant is in your system now? You should definitely aim to get a compressor that has the correct oil from the factory for whatever refrigerant you have in there currently.
I have been running a Denso 471-1141 for years now on my 1990, I can confirm the fit and function. Definitely replace the dryer but I wouldn't bother with the expansion valve if it's all working well now (I have replaced mine in both the main head and the fridge with no noticeable change).....I say this because there's lots of old foam sealing those assemblies in that just turns to dust that's hard to replace/replicate for proper reinstallation/sealing.
Although R12A is compatible with both types of refrigerant (R12 and R134a), I think I had both in my system at the same time and I'm not sure that was ideal. Watching the sight glass there was clearly a "slug" of refrigerant that had a slightly different color (due to the dye in the system) and the compressor sounded different when it ran through. I have since flushed the system and that "slug" has gone away, however on the flip side it's not performing noticeably better so maybe it didn't actually affect anything? Also worth noting is the need to replace the oil volume and it could have just been too much oil in the system as well? Hell if I know, the AC system is a wild one to me.
I have been running a Denso 471-1141 for years now on my 1990, I can confirm the fit and function. Definitely replace the dryer but I wouldn't bother with the expansion valve if it's all working well now (I have replaced mine in both the main head and the fridge with no noticeable change).....I say this because there's lots of old foam sealing those assemblies in that just turns to dust that's hard to replace/replicate for proper reinstallation/sealing.
Although R12A is compatible with both types of refrigerant (R12 and R134a), I think I had both in my system at the same time and I'm not sure that was ideal. Watching the sight glass there was clearly a "slug" of refrigerant that had a slightly different color (due to the dye in the system) and the compressor sounded different when it ran through. I have since flushed the system and that "slug" has gone away, however on the flip side it's not performing noticeably better so maybe it didn't actually affect anything? Also worth noting is the need to replace the oil volume and it could have just been too much oil in the system as well? Hell if I know, the AC system is a wild one to me.
@HillCountryTX - Thanks. I had it in my head that the expansion valve and drier were the parts to replace every time you open the system. I'll leave the expansion valve and do a dryer. if I replace the compressor.
@jellis - It was originally an R12 car, but was converted to R134 in Japan. When I got it, it did not blow cold, and I charged it with a can of the generic "AC mechanic freon can with leak stopper" from the local AutoZone. It blows super cold, cold enough that if I leave it on fan speed two (in Florida), I've got to turn it down a bit.
I'm curious what sound you were hearing from your compressor? Mine sounds dead on like bad bearings. I hear an audible, resonant "whirr" when the compressor cycles on and off. When you say you flushed the system, you mean you took it to an AC shop, and they sucked it down and recharged it? And the noise went away?
My compressor top plate definitely looks quite different. There are two larger bulkheads for the AC lines that are plumbed into the top plate, not just the one fitting.
Thanks all!
If it was converted to R134a then don't get that compressor, it comes with mineral oil which isn't miscible in R134a. You need it to come with PAG instead. Some options here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Also this Denso chart has been handy for finding cheaper variants in the past, I believe you need a 10PA15C (not 17C) for the 1HDT.
You will swap your top plate form your current compressor so no need to worry about what it comes with.
1HD-T Air Conditioner Replacement?
All, Looking for some clarification on an older thread. I have a 1993 HDJ81, and the clutch is wobbling and screeching. Toyota Part # from is 88320-60340 (ToyoDIY). I've alternately on threads here seen this as a Denso replacement part # 10PA17C or 10PA15C. Any feedback? The OEM compressor...
forum.ih8mud.com
Also this Denso chart has been handy for finding cheaper variants in the past, I believe you need a 10PA15C (not 17C) for the 1HDT.
You will swap your top plate form your current compressor so no need to worry about what it comes with.
Thanks for the info. I'll keep searching, but I believe you're correct that the 10PA15C (at least) looks correct.If it was converted to R134a then don't get that compressor, it comes with mineral oil which isn't miscible in R134a. You need it to come with PAG instead. Some options here:
1HD-T Air Conditioner Replacement?
All, Looking for some clarification on an older thread. I have a 1993 HDJ81, and the clutch is wobbling and screeching. Toyota Part # from is 88320-60340 (ToyoDIY). I've alternately on threads here seen this as a Denso replacement part # 10PA17C or 10PA15C. Any feedback? The OEM compressor...
Also this Denso chart has been handy for finding cheaper variants in the past, I believe you need a 10PA15C (not 17C) for the 1HDT.
You will swap your top plate form your current compressor so no need to worry about what it comes with.
Thanks!
