Part number for rubber boot in auto shifter linkage? (9 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

The bushing or gasket in body where the automatic shift linkage passes through the floor pan is damaged in my 80.

Mine is all torn up and hot air flows freely through. It is very evident since I am running without carpets or console.

I'd like to replace it before installing flooring.

Would anyone be willing to share a part number or part diagram link? My searches so far haven't produced anything.

It is a '94, if that makes any difference.

 

[bhsdriller]

Go to partsouq and enter your VIN. They have all of the diagrams

 

[OGBeno]

90386-15003 x2
90389-08005 x1
90480-17177 x1

 

[CharlieS]

Thank you.

I'm looking the the flexible rubber boot that covers the hole in the floor where the shift linkage passes through.

It looks like it may be a part of a larger gasket between the plate and the floor.

Assembly:

Zoomed in here:

I think it might be 33555 in this breakdown:

33555	BOOT, SHIFT LEVER
33555-60071

 

[OGBeno]

I'll start sending you a parts technical invoice every time I have to pull up a part number for you. Will that work?

33555-60071

 

[CharlieS]

I'll start sending you a parts technical invoice every time I have to pull up a part number for you. Will that work?

33555-60071

I apologize if I'm being too needy.

Although in this case, it seems like I might have looked it up myself and posted it in the thread above before you posted it just now.

33555	BOOT, SHIFT LEVER
33555-60071

 

[Kernal]

FWIW when I replaced the shift lever boot I put a thin sheet of heat reflective
materal under the boot including the small boot for the shifter that always tears. I cut a lengthwise slit in it for the lever arm that dives through the boot and floor to the linkage below. Idea was an attempt to decrease heat exposure to that thinner rubber while also decreasing heat under the center console. I'll let you know in 20 years if it made a difference.

Lots of options:

High Temperature Heat Resistant Fiberglass Fabric Cloth

 

[CharlieS]

If we're both here in 20 years, I look forward to learning the results.

 

[CharlieS]

Confirming that that part number is correct. I received the parts fedex today, from japan, free shipping, faster that I get most parts I buy in the US. And a lot lower price...

 

[CharlieS]

Also, for anyone else stumbling across this thread, here is another that is very helpful - good visuals: Replacing shift lever boot - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/replacing-shift-lever-boot.616131/

I think the FSM calls for removing the linkage from the top by removing the cotter pin rather than by removing the linkage from under the car by unbolting like the referenced post above did. Either way seems possible. (I was wrong)

Edit/Updates:

I was wrong, the FSM calls for the shift linkage to be removed from below at the other end of the linkage like in the video.

I had it confused with this part (which is disconnecting the transfer shift linkage from above).

However, I will say that I was able to disconnect the shift linkage from above with needle nose pilers by pulling the pin (like below) with a pair of needle nose pliers with zero drama.

Toyota 90468-14017​

Clip
1984-2022 Toyota

 

[CharlieS]

Okay, I just went for it.

Yes the clip is accessible from the top with needle nose pliers, once you remove the 6 (10mm head) bolts that hold the plate down to the tunnel.

I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have, didn't have a magnet handy, and think I lost a washer, but will recover it tomorrow.

The gasket is really shot. No wonder I was getting a lot of airflow and heat coming through.

Just another example of the rubber stuff that deteriorates over time.

Kinda makes me wonder about the condition of remaining original equipment suspension bushings and body mounts. I'll have to add inspecting them to my list.

 

[jonheld]

while it's apart, you should take the time to lube the transfer case lever to prevent it from seizing.

 

[CharlieS]

while it's apart, you should take the time to lube the transfer case lever to prevent it from seizing.

I'll do that. Thanks for the tip.

 

[CharlieS]

while it's apart, you should take the time to lube the transfer case lever to prevent it from seizing.

I am looking in the FSM now, but if anyone can share how they did this, I'd appreciate it.

Am I taking those four bolts off and lubricating the pivot with whatever is already in there (grease?)?

 

[CharlieS]

Popped the boot. No grease. Maybe just hit it with some teflon spray lube?

 

[jonheld]

Popped the boot. No grease. Maybe just hit it with some teflon spray lube?

Make sure the lever moves freely when disconnected from the transfer case linkage. It should flop around easily. If not, then you should remove it and clean out the pivot pin. once free and lubed, I packed the entire cavity with grease, and lubed the rest of the linkage pivot points.
I can shift into and out of low range with 2 fingers.

 

[CharlieS]

Thank you.

 

[klandon]

Make sure the lever moves freely when disconnected from the transfer case linkage. It should flop around easily. If not, then you should remove it and clean out the pivot pin. once free and lubed, I packed the entire cavity with grease, and lubed the rest of the linkage pivot points.
I can shift into and out of low range with 2 fingers.

Any rec on removing it and cleaning out the pivot pin? I have the linkage disconnected and the lever moves back and forth, I wouldn't say it "flop(s) around easily" though. Only thing I see that I can start tearing down are the four 12mm bolts shown in Charlie's picture above. Also, what are you lubing with, moly grease? Thanks!

 

[jonheld]

Any rec on removing it and cleaning out the pivot pin? I have the linkage disconnected and the lever moves back and forth, I wouldn't say it "flop(s) around easily" though. Only thing I see that I can start tearing down are the four 12mm bolts shown in Charlie's picture above. Also, what are you lubing with, moly grease? Thanks!

It's just bolted to the top of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts and put it on a bench to see what you have. If the lever is able to move relatively freely, then all it needs is some grease. Remember that it is exposed to the elements being on top of the tranny. Don't be shy with the grease. The lever should flop around easily.
I use moly grease for everything on the truck.

 

[klandon]

It's just bolted to the top of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts and put it on a bench to see what you have. If the lever is able to move relatively freely, then all it needs is some grease. Remember that it is exposed to the elements being on top of the tranny. Don't be shy with the grease. The lever should flop around easily.
I use moly grease for everything on the truck.

Thanks Jon! Noticed that the transfer case shifts harder when the linkage is connected (i.e. actually shifting into and out of 4 hi/low) than when not. Is that to be expected? Outside of changing the transfer case oil, anything I should look into?