Part and mod advice

[straight6]

New LX450 owner

This is a great forum!

I'm looking for new shocks to pair with new Dueler Revos (very smooth, pretty quite after a few hundred miles). Dealer suggested LC shocks at $400, but the price and ride seem firm. I don't mind paying for quality shocks (for a quality truck!), as long as I can be sure they'll offer a decent ride. Other suggestions are appreciated.

Also, my center diff does not lock automatically in low range. I checked pin #7 (OK), and the plug is in place on the transfer case. The front and rear do lock when voltage is applied, so they appear OK. The dealer said I need a new "unit" at the differential (about $155). Could I bypass this problem by installing a manual button (per Slee)?

Another mystery involves moisture on the passenger side floor. I think it is coolant, but the heater core checked out OK by the dealer via a pressure test.

I'm also looking for a "front fender flare" (I think that is the correct term) which attaches via plastic plugs behind the right front wheel in front of the exhaust manifold. There should be three such flares in the back of each front wheel well. I'm missing the piece that protects the exhaust.

I would like to try a few recommended mods as well, but I don't know where to get the parts. In addition to the diff lock button (from Slee), where could I find second row reclining hinges and George's LEDs.

97 LX450
95 BMW 525iT

 

[Riley]

Welcome straight6 -

That's a lot of questions there. I'll start with the easy one and that's the shocks. $400 for Toyota shocks????? That dealer is crazy. The stock 80 series shocks from Toyota are the best deal on the planet (usually). PM or hunt around for C-Dan on this site (he's our OEM parts guy). I recall Dan saying that the shocks from Toyota are like $25 each (or something like that, could be more but no where near $100 ).

If your planning on off-roading your new LX450 then you should consider a new set of OME springs and shocks. The truck will handle better and you can get a little (or lot) of lift out of it. Consult www.sleeoffroad.com for details on OME suspension.

I'll let others chime in on some of your other questions.

Riley

edit -
>> Another mystery involves moisture on the passenger side floor. I think it is coolant, but the heater core checked out OK by the dealer via a pressure test. <<
>>

That sounds like the sunroof drains being plugged. Search the site for sunroof and you'll learn all about this common problem. In short there are drains in the sunroof that carry water down to the rocker panels and out through little drain holes. Those holes get plugged and it's a common problem. I'm surprised the dealer didn't catch it.

 

[xl715]

O.k. here we go-
First the shocks, most people here run Old Man Emu if they run anything other then stock. I run them and think they ride far far superior to the sloppy stockers.
Second the diff lock switch, I'm not 100% sure a center switch would fix your problem but it is where I would start, as well as the pin 7 mod, which should give you complete control over the center diff. Third the moisture, it could be your A/C drain tube is pluged not alowing condensation to drain. Or it could be a sunroof drain thats plugged, but that would depend on where the floor is wet, in the middle or by the kick panel.
Slee is probably your best bet on mods/advice on mods, or you could try man-a-fre, the second row hinges I just moded on my own!!
Good luck with it all and welcome!!

 

[landtank]

First question...do you know what a wrench is?


400.00 for shocks . Wow. If you think that the factory LC shocks are firm then nothing but what you have now will satisfy you. A lot of people find the mush and sway of the lX unexceptable and move to something more firm with better handling.

Any mods we might suggest would most likely require respringing and since that would degrade the ride quality then thats out.


I might suggest, wood grain, gold emblems, cup holder, curtains, chrome 17" wheels, chrome exhaust tip, stone guard for hood, rain sheild for windows, winsheild visor, carpetted dash pad and some fuzzy dice.

 

[straight6]

Very nice . . . . I should have things in order shortly.

And wouldn't you know, I didn't even need to break out that wrench thingy to diagnose my problems! It gets even better -- I didn't miss a single inning of the Sox-Yankees game tonight! Go Tigers!!

FYI -- Dueler Revos seem to control the swaying problem with the LX. I have no idea how "mushy" the stock shocks are, as the current set is shot.

Rick, if you know where I can get the dice with matching curtains, please let me know. And since you seem to have the time, would you be available to install them?

Thanks all,
Michael

 

[Dan_J-spec_fj62]

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/led.html

here is the site for the LED lights .... they look nice but i have other toys in mind first

welcome!!!

dan

 

[Koffer]

The stock 80 series shocks from Toyota are the best deal on the planet (usually). PM or hunt around for C-Dan on this site (he's our OEM parts guy). I recall Dan saying that the shocks from Toyota are like $25 each (or something like that, could be more but no where near $100 ).

Welcome to the list
as for shocks a smart shopper found them OEM Toyota for $81 for all 4 .
Tell your dealer to go crap in his hat. There is no way in hell that 4 shocks cost $400 even with them installed
Before you go much farther read through some of the old posts and try the search (it sort of works ) if you cant find it just hit the list with your ?s

 

[Beowulf]

Michael,

Pay no attention to Rick; he gets cranky when.... well, just about all the time.

We had another guy with bad shocks on his LX report that the ride was too harsh; and he reported the ride was wonderful after he got new stock (?) shocks. Typically, a "harsh" ride would be a result of firm springs and firm shocks, though I don't consider the OME shock/spring combo as harsh. New Toyota OEM shocks are not (by this group anyway) considered as firm. However, the original owners of LX's that complained about a "mushy" ride were given Toyota shocks to address the mushiness. Your best bet is to drive or ride in someone's Cruiser with OME springs and shocks and see if you like it. Most here love the upgrade.

C-Dan can get you the skirts that go in the wheel wells. I wouldn't bother but some people like to keep their trucks *pristine* so who's to say what is right for you.

CruiserGreg will make you a set of custom curtains for the cargo area of your 80. PM him for color selection and other details. Be sure to tell him I sent you.

George is a regular here on IH8MUD though he doesn't post much. His ID is George_TLC. You can also Google for "George Toyota LED" and you'll get his web site where you can order the LED's. Everyone that has them loves them. If you want to get on 'ole Beo's good side, you'll order an extra map light LED for me. That's the only one that I don't have.

Oh, and welcome to this group of miscreants called mudders.

-B-

 

[RavenTai]

[quote author=straight6 link=board=2;threadid=14942;start=msg140526#msg140526 date=1082166019]

I'm also looking for a "front fender flare" (I think that is the correct term) which attaches via plastic plugs behind the right front wheel in front of the exhaust manifold. There should be three such flares in the back of each front wheel well. I'm missing the piece that protects the exhaust.


where could I find second row reclining hinges and George's LEDs.

97 LX450
95 BMW 525iT
[/quote]

I think you are describing what is called a inner wheel well curtain, for what it is worth my LX450 has nothing in that spot also and it looks like there never was, I think the exhaust heat would melt them, there are holes in the inner fender for a curtain but I'll bet that curtain was deleted when they redesigned the exhaust for the later 80’s, you wil note that the down pipe has a extra metal shroud there, I assume to protect it from rocks flung from the tires?

You can get George’s LED’s at his website

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/led.html

 

[mabrodis]

Welcome to the forum straight6, and congrats for getting a nice rig.

As others (damn near everyone) has said about the shocks/ride, normally it's not classifieds as harsh, or rough, but resembling a sailboat or floating dock.. That's the way mine was...HOWEVER (this might actually be useful), don't base the way it rides now as good/bad until you put on some different tires. This is assuming your's has the stock Michelin LTX tires... Mine felt horrible, wandered, tires never looked aired up, yet I tried them up to like 50psi (way over max pressure), yet still didn't feel like a good tire...reason: they AREN'T a 'good' tire!

Those tires are designed to soak up road bumps, and basically make it feel like a luxury vehicle. With a new set of tires, something more truck related, BFG AT (All Terrain) if you aren't much into wheeling, and any number of other tires, but basically you want a truck tire, not a large passenger car tire. You don't have to go bigger than stock either, putting on 265x75x16's work great, maybe 1/2" or less bigger than stock, but that is a common truck size, so most tires in that size are 'real' tires, good sidewalls, etc. It will help the feeling of the vehicle alot, even without any suspension work.

Now the suspension, if you aren't wheeling it then you don't really need to lift it, you certainly can and they look great lifted, also once lifted you will never want to go down, can see better on the road, just make a great vehicle that much better when you get it higher.

Those wheel-well thingies are curtains or something, the passenger side is always missing one, the driver's side should have them all, mine doesn't, but who cares, I routinely blast the starter with dirt/water and no problems yet, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Your t/c (transfer-case) / center-diff-lock (CDL) woes do not sound like they would be fixed by a switch. The CDL switch only lets you do something manual that should be done automatically anyway, if the computer can't engage it, then probably something else is wrong. The CDL has a actuator, not unlike the front/rear diff locks, it could be that it IS locking but doesn't think it is. There is a sensor in there (ball, push-in style) that senses when it's locked, at the last Cruiser work-day we saw a vehicle with that part not working right. Took it out, cleaned it up (sprayed alot of carb cleaner, and pushed the ball alot) and were measuring it with a ohm-meter (when pushed in it should be shorted), after a few minutes worked perfect again. Your's could very well be a similar problem.

The middle-seat reclining hinges are not new ones, but modified ones, just search on here, we all just did this at the last Cruiser work-party.

I can't remember what else you asked, and god-knows nobody is still reading this post..

Oh, and don't be surprised if you get alot of , and 'Welcome NEWBIE', etc...but don't feel bad, we've all been there...and honestly it sounds like you know more about your Crusier (sure a Lexus on paper, like mine is, but it bleeds Toy red ) than I did when I got my first one.

And congrats for finding this forum, there is WAY to much info on here...

Feel free to post any other questions...

Later..
Mark Brodis

 

[phatairman]

Don't know if this will help but it is a good write up on a CDL problem (and solution).

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_centerdiff.htm

 

[cruiserdan]

Regarding the plastic curtains in the front wheel wells, there are only two on the RH side. This allows the exhaust pipes out. This is reversed on 3FE powered vehicles as the exhaust is on the LH side.

 

[landtoy80]

< wood grain, gold emblems, cup holder, curtains, chrome 17" wheels, chrome exhaust tip, stone guard for hood, rain sheild for windows, winsheild visor, carpetted dash pad and some fuzzy dice.>

Landtank, have you been peeking inside the TURD?

 

[straight6]

I am happy to report that my new girlfriend and I finally got intimate this weekend! I got to see and touch many private parts! I appreciate all the advice for my first big date. Here is what I found:

Regarding Shocks:
I have LC shocks now, which are probably old, and they want to throw me off the road when I hit a rough patch. Stock shock on the LX is the same as the LC, but small springs were added at the base of each shock. Hence the sway, which certainly wasn't helped by the Michelins. Interesting, but not really relevant to my decision, which I have failed to make yet (LC, Rancho, or OME)? I'm not sure she needs a "lift", cause she looks very fine now, and we don't plan on getting rough too often.

Center Dif Lock:
Could be bad switch on the top of the transfer case ($71). I think the switch is needed even with the manual switch at the dash. I will try to play with the actuator thingy per Mark B's suggestion before buying the part. I wish my wife a switch

Floor Moisture:
Probably just an emotional problem (typical female). I fiddled with the drain tube gasket, which may have been letting some moisture drip back up the very short drain hose. I probably wasn't listening or paying attention (typical male) when I thought it was related to heating -- the 'auto' climate probably through me off. Sunroof drains OK after very light air pressure.

Inner Wheel Well Curtain:
Got the left side curtain. At least I can feel better that the starter is not exposed to perverted roadways and passersby.

Good Toyota Parts Guy:
I also got a tip from a friendly Toyota parts guy regarding the protective shielding on the exhaust downpipe. He suggested reinforcing the existing clamps at both ends of the shielding with hose clamps. This should help prevent nagging chatter from developing (ALWAYS a priority). He went on to suggest (off the record) that I should look at adjustable Rancho shocks. This made up for the initial ~$400 (installed) quote that the service guys gave me for LC shocks.

Hey -- I know this is boring to non-virgins, but I'm trying to make it interesting!

Console and Seat Removal and Cleaning:
I removed the front seats and center console as well. We have no secrets, and I found many momentos from previous dates, including melted lipstick, crayons, and coffee stains (thankfully, no other stains). One motor in the passenger seat doesn't work though, and I couldn't figure out how to manually adjust it. Maybe I can just use a big beanbag, and let the second-rowers stretch their legs. Finished with a quick wash. Wow -- she cleans up very nicely!

I think I will buy her a few new belts for our next date.

This truck is great to play with -- lots of room and logical, sturdy construction.

Thanks all
Michael K

 

[Riley]

Regarding the new belts, Make sure you get the OEM matched pair and not cogged belts. I'm in process of replacing the set that my PO installed. They are very noisey.

That's my 0.02

 

[mot]

[quote author=straight6 link=board=2;threadid=14942;start=msg141327#msg141327 date=1082348939]
(thankfully, no other stains).[/quote]

That's your job

 

[hoser]

Problems with the CDL

I am having CDL woes too. I pulled the connector off the transfer case (as per http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_centerdiff.htm) and shorted the plug. Now the CDL light comes on the dash--good and the F&R differential locks work. What's strange is that I've tested the little ball switch and it works well (.1 ohms) even when pressed just a little bit. Attached to the connector, I can make the CDL light go on/off.

My question is, can there be something wrong mechanically in the transfer case, preventing the actuation of this switch? Or should I just order a new switch and cross my fingers?

 

[landtank]

I've got one question Straight6. Does your name refer to the engine or your tool?

 

[Beowulf]

>> ... or your tool? <<

Gee Rick. Why would that be important to you?

>> can there be something wrong mechanically in the transfer case <<

hoser,
Unlikely, but possible. This comes up once a month and it is almost always the switch. A new one is the easiest fix but I believe some have removed and "fixed" the switch. I cannot recall any details but if you are interested in attempting to fix it then search and if you cannot find any relevant posts the let me know and I'll try to search.

-B-

 

[landtank]

B,
WIth this guys infactuation with his truck and the request for mods I flashed on a SNL skit. The one where the guy bought the car of his dreams that had a hidden socket behind the license plate for those personal moments.

I figure straight6 might want to rummage around the attic for one of his moms old fur coats and mod his tow receiver.