Panhard bar (adjustable vs delta bracket)

[geanes]

got it, but remember that your effective lift will still be 3” which is only a .5” over the “might need a pan hard correction” limit... i don’t personally think it’s worth the expense. keep in mind that comparing lift between the 4runner and landcruiser should be avoided, the 100 is wider than the 4runner and has a longer pandhard, longer means larger radius and less horizontal displacement for a given vertical displacement


Also, double think those TT control arms if they are adjustable... folks constantly have issues keeping them tight (it’s a thread class/tolerance issue). calling @geanes !

my metal tech links have stayed tight for 4 years

My Trail Tailor rear control arms have been a constant thorn in my side. The jam nuts constantly loosen.....even with blue loctite. The threads have gotten chewed up thanks to them backing off constantly. Ordering a set of MetalTech's to replace them. Sad that I didn't even get 1 year out of the Trail Tailors. Really, seriously disappointed and can't recommend them to anyone.

 

[abuck99]

Thats a bummer Gary.

The adjustable links have their benefits but come with some downsides for sure.

Fwiw I have have both MT and TT and wouldnt say its exclusive to TrailTailor issue. On any link the jamb nut has to be cranked down pretty hard from initial install and checked periodically. If you dont and it gets loose- as you said the threads get worn loose and they never hold right. Ive not yet had TT jamb nut come loose in 30k + miles and never used thread locker. I had one MT upper come loose but caught it pretty quick and hasnt been an issue since. I think its the nature of an adjustable link that is prone to more frequent maintanence.

Case in point: poly bushings in link arms. My observation is the poly bushings dont have much longevity with either option. The force on the link arms hammers those poly bushes. They dont tear but they arent very elastic(memory), and harden up with in 20-25,000 miles. The result is that they stay compressed then the sleeves get loose/wobble in the bushing and you get driveline slack. You’ll know it when cornering you feel a little wiggle, also when you come to a stop let off the brake and you get a “thud” before accelerating. Fwiw I have about 35k on both sets of link arms, just rebuilt both the lowers and uppers and its solid again.

I’d like to see a different durometer bush like super pro uses in the steering rack bushes.

 

[OwnerCS]

Thats a bummer Gary.

The adjustable links have their benefits but come with some downsides for sure.

Fwiw I have have both MT and TT and wouldnt say its exclusive to TrailTailor issue. On any link the jamb nut has to be cranked down pretty hard from initial install and checked periodically. If you dont and it gets loose- as you said the threads get worn loose and they never hold right. Ive not yet had TT jamb nut come loose in 30k + miles and never used thread locker. I had one MT upper come loose but caught it pretty quick and hasnt been an issue since. I think its the nature of an adjustable link that is prone to more frequent maintanence.

Case in point: poly bushings in link arms. My observation is the poly bushings dont have much longevity with either option. The force on the link arms hammers those poly bushes. They dont tear but they arent very elastic(memory), and harden up with in 20-25,000 miles. The result is that they stay compressed then the sleeves get loose/wobble in the bushing and you get driveline slack. You’ll know it when cornering you feel a little wiggle, also when you come to a stop let off the brake and you get a “thud” before accelerating. Fwiw I have about 35k on both sets of link arms, just rebuilt both the lowers and uppers and its solid again.

I’d like to see a different durometer bush like super pro uses in the steering rack bushes.

What type of grease are you running in the greasable joints? SuperLube?

 

[abuck99]

What type of grease are you running in the greasable joints? SuperLube?

I was using valvoline synthetic grease (synpower) with moly on both ends of the link arms and it seemed to work fine with respect to not easily washing out and never having any noise. But it may have not been good for the poly bushes (maybe the syn moly grease petroleum base cased the poly bush to harden up and compress permanently- idk?).

Anyway I rebuilt the JJ’s and poly bush ends and used a silicone based grease with PTFE (Energy Suspension Formula 5 ). We'll see if there's any difference in longevity. This stuff is S T I C K Y and doesn't wash off easily, so wear gloves if you use it.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Thats a bummer Gary.

The adjustable links have their benefits but come with some downsides for sure.

Fwiw I have have both MT and TT and wouldnt say its exclusive to TrailTailor issue. On any link the jamb nut has to be cranked down pretty hard from initial install and checked periodically. If you dont and it gets loose- as you said the threads get worn loose and they never hold right. Ive not yet had TT jamb nut come loose in 30k + miles and never used thread locker. I had one MT upper come loose but caught it pretty quick and hasnt been an issue since. I think its the nature of an adjustable link that is prone to more frequent maintanence.

Case in point: poly bushings in link arms. My observation is the poly bushings dont have much longevity with either option. The force on the link arms hammers those poly bushes. They dont tear but they arent very elastic(memory), and harden up with in 20-25,000 miles. The result is that they stay compressed then the sleeves get loose/wobble in the bushing and you get driveline slack. You’ll know it when cornering you feel a little wiggle, also when you come to a stop let off the brake and you get a “thud” before accelerating. Fwiw I have about 35k on both sets of link arms, just rebuilt both the lowers and uppers and its solid again.

I’d like to see a different durometer bush like super pro uses in the steering rack bushes.

it’s an issue with thread class and tolerance. I have MT adjustable links with 50k miles on them and they’ve never come lose. Everyone is subject to quality control issues, but some more than others and some processes more than others.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

My Trail Tailor rear control arms have been a constant thorn in my side. The jam nuts constantly loosen.....even with blue loctite. The threads have gotten chewed up thanks to them backing off constantly. Ordering a set of MetalTech's to replace them. Sad that I didn't even get 1 year out of the Trail Tailors. Really, seriously disappointed and can't recommend them to anyone.

it’s an issue with thread class and tolerance. I have MT adjustable links with 50k miles on them and they’ve never come lose. Everyone is subject to quality control issues, but some more than others and some processes more than others.

I have a meme for this

 

[OwnerCS]

Tonight I installed my DeltaVS Panhard drop kit. Note that I am lightly loaded at ~210 lbs on Dobinsons 880 lbs springs. I figure I have another 500 lbs of Dobinsons toolbox, gear, and maybe an LRA fuel tank before I'm done. My rear lift is over 3.5". Yea it's pointed at the sky. At the end of the day, once I get this thing fully loaded, the bar will be level or I have the option to move it up a notch.

All I can say is it sure drives better without the "boot scooting boogie" feeling when I fly over the speed bumps in my neighborhood. Pardon the wet. It was covered with mud from last weekend.

 

[OwnerCS]

Found this video about Panhard bar setup for your entertainment.

 

[Ironsides]

Ordering mine now.

Thanks @OwnerCS. We tend to mod very similarly.

 

[trdtoyotrk]

I'm loaded fairly heavy and had a very uncomfortable wobble shift to the drivers side. After using the delta drop bracket and getting the bar flat, the ride has been much more enjoyable. Costly yes, but well built and easy install with benefits from the drivers seat seemed worth it to me.

 

[Ironsides]

I'm loaded fairly heavy and had a very uncomfortable wobble shift to the drivers side. After using the delta drop bracket and getting the bar flat, the ride has been much more enjoyable. Costly yes, but well built and easy install with benefits from the drivers seat seemed worth it to me.

Hearing nothing but great things from this!

Mine arrives tomorrow.

 

[notgoodenough]

So, currently working on removing my adjustable panhard bar to shorten it to bring the drivers side rear tire toward the center of the vehicle (by about 3/4 inch), (I know im shifting everything by 3/4 inch). I was able to get the bolt out of the passenger side where it links the panhard bar to the frame. How on earth do you get the drivers side bolt out? My access to the nut seems to be blocked. Is there a nut? Pics incoming.

 

[notgoodenough]

stay with me here. I think that the "frame" would be threaded, that way you just have to screw the bolt into the frame since there is no access for there to be a nut. On the passenger side you have access to both sides, nut, bolt and washer. If this is the case, you would ALWAYS want to remove the passenger side nut first because there is going to be some force on that panhard bar and the bolt will most likey get stuck and need to be pounded out. You wouldn't want that to happen on the side where you cant pound. I will probably wait until someone confirms my thought here, but then I will go ahead and try to remove this bolt and find out. I was only able to adjust the panhard bar by about 1/2 inch and I need to do it 3/4 of an inch, I need some of that slack shown in the picture on the panhard bar.

 

[JAntosch]

So, currently working on removing my adjustable panhard bar to shorten it to bring the drivers side rear tire toward the center of the vehicle (by about 3/4 inch), (I know im shifting everything by 3/4 inch). I was able to get the bolt out of the passenger side where it links the panhard bar to the frame. How on earth do you get the drivers side bolt out? My access to the nut seems to be blocked. Is there a nut? Pics incoming.


View attachment 3471294

Yep, captive in the frame. Remove passenger side first as mentioned above

 

[hoser]

@notgoodenough Many links are RH thread on one side and LH thread on the other. Which means... you loosen the lock nuts and twist the bar and it either lengthens or shortens. Which also means, you don't actually have to unbolt the ends.

 

[notgoodenough]

@notgoodenough Many links are RH thread on one side and LH thread on the other. Which means... you loosen the lock nuts and twist the bar and it either lengthens or shortens. Which also means, you don't actually have to unbolt the ends.

I do think that this works for this bar too, but the nuts are in such a bad position located at the end of the bar on each side which means they are usually too tight to the frame to get to (should be located in the center of the beam like on other bars). I think this specific ROKMAN bar is meant for a larger lift than what I have, so I am basically trying to make it as short as I can (came with the vehicle when I bought it). I was able to get the diff pretty close to centered, probably still about 1/8 inch too far on the drivers side. I will probably go under tomorrow and adjust one more time. I want to get this as close as possible before going in for an alignment. Next is replacing the upper control arms that came with the vehicle, then I will send it in for an alignment. Hope I haven't done too much wear on these tires as I have been driving it around while adjusting the torsion bars to get the front ride height correct.