Pallet Jack for Installing H55f/Split Transfer Case? (1 Viewer)

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Do THIS to it. You'll be really glad you did. 1/2" plywood. Original rear mount. Make sure to leave enough platform (plywood) rearward to be able to support the transfer with a couple shims.

DSC01164 tranny removal seq pics of board bolted to jack w support.JPG
 
Do THIS to it. You'll be really glad you did. 1/2" plywood. Original rear mount. Make sure to leave enough platform (plywood) rearward to be able to support the transfer with a couple shims.

View attachment 1575834
To support transmissions while sitting on the garage floor I use a short section of 2X4 with holes drilled for the bolts at the bottom of the transmission rear mount that's already bolted to the transmission. I'll use some lag screws to attach a piece of plywood to the 2X4 and mount it to the jack just like in your photo.
 
@OSS - how well built is that Jack? I need to get a new one as I sold the 800lb version on CL because I thought I was never going to remove a trans again between my back and the new 5spd, but shizzle happens.

I like the higher lift of that one, but don't know if it's necessary.

Thanks!
 
@Spike Strip
That 2000 lbs HF tranny jack is freaking bad ass. Is heavy duty. It's also very heavy. Maybe 125 lbs. with accessories removed (140 lbs total).

Since the HF 800 lb jack (which will work fine for any tranny job) list price is $160 but you can buy it with a 20% coupon for $128, my jack now is worth less than that on Craigslist cuz nobody really NEEDS a 2000 lb tranny jack. Anyone shopping for a tranny jack on CL is looking to save money any way they can and nobody would buy it for $100.

I'd probably be lucky to sell it for $50 on CL (even though I paid $225 for it).

If you want it, come get it, but bring a strong buddy because I ain't gunna touch it.

Pictures of jack put to use---

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Thanks for the offer, F, but there's a 20% off at the HF today so I pulled the trigger. I've got a couple tranny/Orion t'case (and those fux are HEAVY!) and clutch jobs in my future, so I just decided not to make it easy. The 800 lb worked fine, but my truck is a little high up and I kinda had to micky it up last time, but this time I won't have the help, so ...

I'm also worried it's a little too heavy, but that's gonna be UPS' problem :D

As long as I can get it on the hand truck, it'll be ok.

Thanks for the info!
 
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Wow. Sessy.
 
This afternoon I picked up the 800-lb. jack w/20% coupon for $128 and just finished unpacking it in the garage. Will build a plywood/2X4 base in the morning, gather some shims and straps, and give it a whirl. First I have to winch the vehicle up the sloped driveway with my '76 FJ40 to get it on a flat area near the garage. Was waiting to do this until I finished the rear axle brake drum installation and tie rod/drag link installation, which will allow me to move the FJ60 around for the first time in ~2 years. Boy, do these resto-mods take time!
 
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@Spike Strip
That 2000 lbs HF tranny jack is freaking bad ass. Is heavy duty. It's also very heavy. Maybe 125 lbs. with accessories removed (140 lbs total).

Since the HF 800 lb jack (which will work fine for any tranny job) list price is $160 but you can buy it with a 20% coupon for $128, my jack now is worth less than that on Craigslist cuz nobody really NEEDS a 2000 lb tranny jack. Anyone shopping for a tranny jack on CL is looking to save money any way they can and nobody would buy it for $100.

I'd probably be lucky to sell it for $50 on CL (even though I paid $225 for it).

If you want it, come get it, but bring a strong buddy because I ain't gunna touch it.

Pictures of jack put to use---


What would be useful is a picture of the assist bracket you built to support the transfer case? I'm hopeful to finish my rebuild
today or tomorrow and will post a pic of my bracket. I don't mind plywood, but initially I bent a piece of 3/16" stabilizer arm
that was originally on my baseplate. Even if you don't weld, you could use a piece of metal and bolt it together the same way.
Just my concerns for your safety showing through.
 
Do THIS to it. You'll be really glad you did. 1/2" plywood. Original rear mount. Make sure to leave enough platform (plywood) rearward to be able to support the transfer with a couple shims.

What would be useful is a picture of the assist bracket you built to support the transfer case? I'm hopeful to finish my rebuild
today or tomorrow and will post a pic of my bracket. I don't mind plywood, but initially I bent a piece of 3/16" stabilizer arm
that was originally on my baseplate. Even if you don't weld, you could use a piece of metal and bolt it together the same way.
Just my concerns for your safety showing through.
 
Decided to head to Santa Fe this morning to pick up one of these:

View attachment 1575759

Went to the HFT website this morning and found a 20% off coupon valid today through Sunday. I've got at least three projects coming up for this, Sunday's installation of the H55f/split transfer case for my '86 FJ60 project, installation of an HJ47 H41 and BJ45 drum parking brake split transfer case in my '71 FJ40, and a clutch/rear main seal replacement on my '84 FJ60 (still on the original clutch at >182,000 miles).

I think this jack will come in handy for loading/unloading heavy items into the bed of my Silverado pickups. It also looks to be low-profile so I can park it under my workbench.

Appreciate all of the tips, suggestions, and cautions.
Could you please post how well it works for you. I have a 71 FJ40 with a rear main seal leaking that needs attention. Thanks.
 
Could you please post how well it works for you. I have a 71 FJ40 with a rear main seal leaking that needs attention. Thanks.
It worked well, but it's best to use some plywood/wood blocks to keep things level, especially because of the center of gravity. And I use a ratchet strap or two to cinch things down.
 
It worked well, but it's best to use some plywood/wood blocks to keep things level, especially because of the center of gravity. And I use a ratchet strap or two to cinch things down.
Approximately where was or is the center of gravity both lateral and longitudinal? Do you have a picture of how you set it up?
 
Approximately where was or is the center of gravity both lateral and longitudinal? Do you have a picture of how you set it up?
No photos, sorry. The transfer case brings the COG quite a ways back and to the passenger side.
 
I picked up a "baby scissor lift" from Harbor Freight the last time I did some transmission work.

450 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack

Pros:
Small footprint.
Easy to move around. All castors swivel, whereas the front wheels of some jacks are fixed in place.
Cheaper than other options they had.
Reached high enough.

Cons:
Cranking a transmission up from the ground is tough when you are lying on your back. (you use a 1/2 ratchet to raise/lower it).
The ratchet strap latch is large and sometimes impossible to release when it's pinned against the floorpan. You end up taking the bolt out of the end of the strap.
I wish it would go lower to the ground to clear the body/frame when you are getting the trans out from under the truck.

I've used floor jacks and ATV jacks, and this scissor style from HF worked just a well.

image_23989.jpg
I bought this jack to lift mine with. It lifts great but the transfer case makes it lean to the output side so I keep a close eye on that so it does not tip over.
 

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