Paint Thoughts - Hit me with recommendations (1 Viewer)

[mikedamageinc]

Just hit the problem areas with fine steel wool, clean, and rattle can clear. Mine has the same problem as yours and I've been doing that for years every time new areas pop up. Of course mine is white so it doesn't look as obvious as it would with a darker color.

 

[FJ-gatos]

I will soon be repainting my '84 BJ42LX mustard color. It's still original factory paint. This original finish does not have a clear coat. I believe it's a single coat enamel. What type of paint could (should) I use to repaint? I'm hearing things like:
- Acrylic water based paint with clear coat
- Water based enamel
- Low VOC enamel if's sold in CA; I heard paints in AZ that are higher VOC can't be used in CA
- Polyurethane with added hardener
- Other

I Would like to use something similar as what's on the car - I'm thinking no clear coat. As it has aged the paint becomes a little dull from Sun's UV, but it mostly buffs out with a little of the yellow paint coming off the car. Any guidance much appreciated.

 

[LINUS]

^^^ Acrylic enamel is the best for a hard, shiney, low maint finish that you can buff ‘brush pinstripes’ easily.

I don’t do water based at all.

You pay thru the nose for petro-based paints as esp PPG uses their oil-based paints to subsidize the water-based stuff.

House of Kolor is cheaper than PPG in most cases, strangely enough.

For non-showcar use, I’m 100 going acrylic enamel w/o clearcoat, every time.

 

[Jeff Elliott]

^^^ Acrylic enamel is the best for a hard, shiney, low maint finish that you can buff ‘brush pinstripes’ easily.
For non-showcar use, I’m 100 going acrylic enamel w/o clearcoat, every time.

Linus tried to give me this advice and boy do I wish I had followed it... As I said earlier, single stage would be far and away my recommendation after having shot both extensively.

 

[azngarage]

I would agree Linus. Owning a body shop for over 10 years now, Acrylic enamel is the way to go for solid color with no metallic. If prep and paint right single stage is going to look better than dual stage paint. Especially after it been cut and buff for sure.

 

[studawg]

I'm sure someone could mix your color in single stage as well.

I agree, I love single stage enamel, and I love the whites and blacks partially for that reason, but do you think they could mix a metallic blue in single stage? I thought the metallic flake in the base paint required a clear coat over it to make it "pop".

 

[studawg]

Just hit the problem areas with fine steel wool, clean, and rattle can clear. Mine has the same problem as yours and I've been doing that for years every time new areas pop up. Of course mine is white so it doesn't look as obvious as it would with a darker color.

So you been spraying spots of clear coat over your single stage white when all you had to do was cut the oxidation off with a little polish?

 

[studawg]

I will soon be repainting my '84 BJ42LX mustard color.

WHY?

 

[LINUS]

Linus tried to give me this advice and boy do I wish I had followed it... As I said earlier, single stage would be far and away my recommendation after having shot both extensively.

Yeah, I’d seen where you had a local helping & you shot clear - I was bummed for you when it became a setback, been there & done that (poor result from some small thing).

Painting is mainly a cut/dried process, but I swear there’s like 3% voodoo in there too

 

[FJ-gatos]

Yes, single stage acrylic enamel is the choosen path. One last question, enamel is oil based and acrylic is water based. So what is acrylic-enamel? Is it oil based, with perhaps less oil? Or, is it an emulsion with say acrylic in suspension. Lol, my voodoo meter's still at about 20%

 

[FJ-gatos]

WHY?

I'm replacing all of the door and window weather stripping and gaskets. I've got a few rust areas that need to be repaired - cancer is spreading. Matching colors is next to impossible. This crusier is all original and in very good condition. Solid candidate for some TLC.

 

[LINUS]

^^^ My version of acrylic enamel is 100% hydrocarbon paint.

You use the reducer that your shoot ambient temp is best at - meaning slow, medium and fast - and your cleanup is with lacquer thinner.

That’s my definition of acrylic enamel.

The only other version still in the 100% HC family is synthetic enamel.

Not as hard, not as resistant to chipping/brush “pinstripes” - so I don’t bother.

Then you move to the “showcar paints” - stuff I hear terms of, but know nothing as it relates to anything with a front driveline.

Alot of it is laquer paint, and what used to be lead slapping/ how “lead sleds” were coined - it wasn’t the leaded gasoline motor.


I’m candid about this - I know little about the entirety of paint spectrum, but I know how to make a non-metallic paint stick to a 4WD.

Acrylic enamel - and do your colorsanding inside 96hrs - or live with what you have for orange-peel/fish-eye, because you’ll look at it until you intentionally sand/media blast it off.

 

[fjbj40]

I thought acrylic enamel was replaced by acrylic urethane?
I know all single stage I have shot in the past 13 years had been acrylic urethane or polyurethane.

 

[LINUS]

I thought acrylic enamel was replaced by acrylic urethane?
I know all single stage I have shot in the past 13 years had been acrylic urethane or polyurethane.

Long ago, I know it went : Acrylic enamel, Synth enamel, then urethane paint in order of hard to soft - then you had the laquer paint for show cars.

I’m having to adapt now as DP series primer is still a PPG product, but they killed off the yellow label paint (single-stage) - I used to shoot after decades of price hikes.

So I started buying House of Kolor off the internet for quite less $$$.

It has the characteristic of acryl enamel, nut I’m not betting my life on which it is.

 

[fjbj40]

First time I sprayed it was Centari, god I loved that paint. Amazing depth and super easy to get a great finish. That was 30 years age. Then I got into aircraft aft maint trade and assisted painting aircraft with Pratt and Lambert polyurethane enamel. A lot trickier to use especially in high humidity but amazing finish. Then acrylic urethane then base clear.
New spray regulations make things tougher now. Some of my last home projects, my boat, was rolled with Interlux Perfection. You would think it was sprayed it flattens and has a very deep shine. I have been doing touch up to aircraft rolling polyurethane also. I can get it to flow and flatten very well. It allows you to paint without the overspray mist around multi million dollar aircraft

 

[LINUS]

^^^ Flat truth - I’m not sure where polyurethane paint falls in the line-up.

Diff name / same thing as synth enamel?

Or is it water-base paint? (Zero exp w/ that here)

I hear aircraft paint is its’ own animal, as they need to use as little as possible for weight reasons, but even that is 2nd-hand info as up here you’re more likely to spray farm/earth mover equipment than anything that flies.

 

[mikedamageinc]

So you been spraying spots of clear coat over your single stage white when all you had to do was cut the oxidation off with a little polish?

Uhhmmm what? No like I said, where the clear was coming off I rattle can some to replace it. Who said anything about single stage?

 

[studawg]

Uhhmmm what? No like I said, where the clear was coming off I rattle can some to replace it. Who said anything about single stage?

I was assuming your TLC had the original paint. The original white 045 was single stage, with no clear coat. If there is clear coat coming off, evidently someone repainted it and added a clear coat for some reason.

 

[azngarage]

i believer most of the new single stage on the market today are low VOC urethane with the ratio of 4 1 1 ( paint, hardenner, and reducer). I don't think PPG make single stage paint anymore but I think Omni does, which is own by PPG.

 

[NYIronPig]

I have a 1994 Green FJ80, that has a nice Arizona sun baked finish (especially the hood, roof and upper sides). Wanted to get this sorted, so would a single stage paint job work for the OEM Green?