P0133 Related to loss of power?

[LC4LIFE]

This has been a strange trouble shoot for me. The truck is running fine now, but I am worried the problem may come back. Here is what has been going on.

Yesterday, after a blizzard left town, I drove home on the freeway and the truck was running fine. I parked in my garage for about 45 min, then left for some errands. Within 20 sec of leaving my garage, at about 1500-2000 rpm, it felt like it was starving for fuel. Strange thing is, right when you push the throttle pedal down far enough to make it downshift, it downshifts and then all the power and response comes back. Once you drop back down to the 1500-2000 rpm level it looses power and feels like it is starving for fuel again. I thought maybe I had water from all the melting snow causing problems so I started trouble shooting it this morning.

BTW - My truck is maintained very well. All the plugs, cap, rotor, wires etc. have less than 22k on them. All EGR related vacuum lines and hoses were replaced 8k ago. EGR modulator was also replaced 8k ago.

It sat all night and today I started troubleshooting it. Thus far here is what I have done.

Checked air intake hose for cracks and leaks and it was fine
Checked and cleaned fuel pump relay
Checked fuel pump resistor
Checked and cleaned distributor cap and rotor
Checked EGR vacuum lines for leaks etc, none found
Checked wiring harness at EGR valve -- seems okay visually and while moving it when the truck is running
Checked fusible links and they were fine.
Did bubble test in overflow bottle and it checked out fine.
Pulled spark plugs and they all look normal

Here comes the strange part. After all the trouble shooting I started it up for a test drive and it threw a P0133 code, which is the first O2 sensor. No other codes were reported by my Scanguage II. I cleared the code via the Scanguage and went and test drove the truck and nothing was better. One I got home I disconnected the battery to completely reset the ECU. Once I restarted it, it ran really rough at idle for about 3-4minutes, then it smoothed out. I went and drove it around town and on the freeway and all was well.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or have any other ides on how to prevent this issue from coming back. I will order O2's if the code comes back, but I have a hard time believing it was related to the problem I was having.

Thanks,

David

 

[94SRUNNER]

David,

Have you ever replaced the O2 sensors? It may be time to replace them both.

 

[Sno bored]

I was getting either a 133 or 130 code, changed my O2 sensors and no more code. I wasn't having any loss of power issues.

 

[LC4LIFE]

I am going to change the O2's but my concern is their not related to the power loss.

 

[Yossarian]

LC4LIFE,

I'm having the exact same problem starting today.

My borrowed the LC this morning as it was blocking her car. She called saying it would not accelerate above 20mph, I told her to release the parking brake, that did not go over well.

I drive it later, same problem as yours. Idles OK, pulls away from a stop OK with slight amount of throttle, but as soon as you ask more from it....nothing? If you floor it, it will kickdown and accelerate like normal.

Drove it 140+ miles on a tank of gas through all the bad weather this week, no problems till today.

Any progress?

 

[nuclearlemon]

i had an issue friday where mine was driving very poorly (to the point where i was wondering if i was going to get it 7 miles home), sputtering, wouldn't idle. my thought was that with two solid days of rain snow that there was water in something, but couldn't find a trace. while messing with it, i cleared to bank one sensor one 02 codes.

today, hit the highway with no issues, which i matched the whole moisture thing since it's hot and sunny...but when i went to leave, the issue arose again. a few minutes later, p0130 and p0133 popped up again. i cleared them and it was fine the rest of the way home

i'll be ordering new 02 sensors tomorrow.

 

[Yossarian]

I just finished checking for codes with a ScanTool OBD II usb scanner connected to a laptop, very cool tool, if I knew how to use it

No codes?

All looked normal at idle, and even with a blip of the throttle, nothing. I then revved it to 2800 rpm and held it, after a few seconds it started to stumble and RPM's dropped 800+. Again no codes?

The MAF meter volume held steady the whole time. The O2 sensors gave me voltage readings, and #1 had something else I'll have to reaserch what it means (fuel trim?).

??????

 

[Yossarian]

Doing the search thing,

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/263878-random-hesitation-cutting-out-part-throttle.html

and others like it, seems to be an ongoing problem

 

[nuclearlemon]

I just finished checking for codes with a ScanTool OBD II usb scanner connected to a laptop, very cool tool, if I knew how to use it

No codes?

All looked normal at idle, and even with a blip of the throttle, nothing. I then revved it to 2800 rpm and held it, after a few seconds it started to stumble and RPM's dropped 800+. Again no codes?

The MAF meter volume held steady the whole time. The O2 sensors gave me voltage readings, and #1 had something else I'll have to reaserch what it means (fuel trim?).

??????

that's almost exactly the problem i had. trying to limp it home, i noticed that keeping the pedal steadily almost to the floor, the motor would rev to 4k then drop smoothly to around 750 before shooting back up. the last few days, i've been having p0130/p0135 codes; one of which is o2 and fuel trim.

keep in mind, the computer has to register the issue twice before it will throw the code. mine would run like crap and eventually throw the code. once it did, i cleared it and it would be fine.

 

[LC4LIFE]

LC4LIFE,

I'm having the exact same problem starting today.

My borrowed the LC this morning as it was blocking her car. She called saying it would not accelerate above 20mph, I told her to release the parking brake, that did not go over well.

I drive it later, same problem as yours. Idles OK, pulls away from a stop OK with slight amount of throttle, but as soon as you ask more from it....nothing? If you floor it, it will kickdown and accelerate like normal.

Drove it 140+ miles on a tank of gas through all the bad weather this week, no problems till today.

Any progress?

I have had no problems with driveability since the day I had the problem and reset the ECU. I have driven about 1500 miles since then with no codes or other issues. I am not sure what caused the problem.

 

[Yossarian]

Well......

I had a spare fuel filter, R&R'd that, tried the fuel pump relay cleaning described here on Mud, still no good.

Reset the ECU, it drove better for about 2 min. then back to the lack of power above 1200 RPM. Funny, it will drop off above 1200, but if I keep applying the throttle, eventually it will downshift and respond.

Still no codes????

 

[Yossarian]

Had to go to work today, need a car, so I broke down and dropped it off at the local dealer and rented a car.

Dealer found no pending codes, but during test drives it showed the TPS voltage jumping.

Back on the road, with a few dollars less.

 

[nuclearlemon]

is all well then?

 

[tlcruiser66]

Drives me nuts when people don't post up solutions to their problems, makes it hard when others come here for help and get nothing but open ended threads.

Anyone ever found a solution to this?

My brother and I took his 97' 80 out to Tahuya yesterday, after we stopped to hit the head we started driving off and it was acting like it had a wicked misfire up to 2k RPMs then it clears up. The ABS light was staying on so I thought maybe it had something to do with the CDL not disengaging all the way but after we stopped the light went off and it cleared up driving fine all the way home.

Now my brother calls me again today telling me that it's acting up again and that the CEL or the ABS lights are light so he hooks up the scanner and we see a P0130 and P0133 codes. Now I'm no LC expert by any means but I've never seen 2 O2 sensors go out at the same time and only effect drive-ability from 1k-2k RPMs then fix itself a little while later.

Hoping that someone out there may have a solution to this issue without us having to randomly throw parts at it until it's fixed.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Drives me nuts when people don't post up solutions to their problems, makes it hard when others come here for help and get nothing but open ended threads.

Anyone ever found a solution to this?

My brother and I took his 97' 80 out to Tahuya yesterday, after we stopped to hit the head we started driving off and it was acting like it had a wicked misfire up to 2k RPMs then it clears up. The ABS light was staying on so I thought maybe it had something to do with the CDL not disengaging all the way but after we stopped the light went off and it cleared up driving fine all the way home.

Now my brother calls me again today telling me that it's acting up again and that the CEL or the ABS lights are light so he hooks up the scanner and we see a P0130 and P0133 codes. Now I'm no LC expert by any means but I've never seen 2 O2 sensors go out at the same time and only effect drive-ability from 1k-2k RPMs then fix itself a little while later.

Hoping that someone out there may have a solution to this issue without us having to randomly throw parts at it until it's fixed.

The OP said his problem was fixed with a new TPS sensor. I would grab an FSM and test the TPS, I have done this before and its quite easy.

If you're brother puts his foot to the floor dose it go back to normal? I'm not sure if on the 80 its the same but most cars at WOT go into a closed (think I have that right....or is it open?) and they do not read off the sensors at that point i.e. TPS,O2 and a few others I think.

 

[tlcruiser66]

The OP said his problem was fixed with a new TPS sensor. I would grab an FSM and test the TPS, I have done this before and its quite easy.

If you're brother puts his foot to the floor dose it go back to normal? I'm not sure if on the 80 its the same but most cars at WOT go into a closed (think I have that right....or is it open?) and they do not read off the sensors at that point i.e. TPS,O2 and a few others I think.

Does not go back to normal until the engine gets past 2k RPMs, when it gets past the magical number it's golden but until then there's no power.

Didn't realize the TPS was the issue since he said the TPS voltage was jumping and I wasn't sure if it ended up being due to the wiring or the sensor itself.

 

[Polar Bear]

The OP said his problem was fixed with a new TPS sensor. I would grab an FSM and test the TPS, I have done this before and its quite easy.

If you're brother puts his foot to the floor dose it go back to normal? I'm not sure if on the 80 its the same but most cars at WOT go into a closed (think I have that right....or is it open?) and they do not read off the sensors at that point i.e. TPS,O2 and a few others I think.

I'm TLCruiser66's brother.

It does clean up and accelerate properly under WOT. It idles fine and the throttle response tip-in from a stop is normal. As soon as I let off a bit and cruise at part throttle it acts like it's throat has been cut and loses all power. WOT and it goes again. Both times it happened for about 15 minutes and then suddenly cleared up.

I drove it this morning and it largely behaved with only a couple of minor stumbles- but still more than it's usual smoothness.

Baffling.

 

[tlcruiser66]

Okay so we checked the O2 sensors and they're both right at 13 ohms, the TPS is operating perfectly and the MAF is functioning and well within the levels given in the FSM.

Anyone else have any ideas as to where to check now?

 

[landtank]

air tube

 

[tlcruiser66]

Air tube as in the tube going from the MAF to the throttle body?