!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

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This past Saturday my business partner of 22 years passed away. :frown:
The family did not need anything that I could provide so me being one of those people that can't sit still regardless of what is happening in my life, I decided to work on the truck a bit more. Just something to make the time pass while I planned how to run my company from this point forward.

I left off about to make the plate for the firewall that the steering tube will pass through. I had read a thread in the FJ45 section by Miker where he had built a neat way to secure the end of the tube so decided to try and built that for !Oy.
Here is a link to the web page with a lot more details of how I did this.
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/31.htm

First I cut out a plate using 16ga sheet steel, then found a pipe that was 1.75" diameter that would slip over the 1.5" OEM steering tube. I cut a 3" piece of that along with two spacers that a 6mm bolt will pass through. Following Mikers thread I made a clamp out of the tube and spacers.

That was about all I got done this weekend. I was also trying to get some firewood split. Anything to make the time pass... I hope to finish welding in the plate this evening. More to come...
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First I cut out a plate using 16ga sheet steel, then found a pipe that was 1.75" diameter that would slip over the 1.5" OEM steering tube. I cut a 3" piece of that along with two spacers that a 6mm bolt will pass through. Following Mikers thread I made a clamp out of the tube and spacers.

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Looks great. I might adapt something similar when I shorten my steering column.
 
Looks great. I might adapt something similar when I shorten my steering column.

Really easy to make. The hardest part (for me anyways) was figuring out that I needed to drill the hole in the plate at the same angle the tube passes through the firewall if I didn't want huge gaps around the tube. Because I drilled it just a tad low, there is a bit of a gap at the bottom that I can easily fill with weld.

Still haven't decided if I need to weld that all the way around or not. It's really not supporting anything, and I'm not that good of a welder. :D Plus with thin 16ga I'm afraid it would warp even if I alternate sides. Thoughts?
 
Weld it good, you don't want an opening in the firewall there.

The breeze will blow up you skirt all the time, bad in winter.

The ping off the exhaust system will be loud with an open hole there, and over time, there is always a little exhaust leak there someplace it seems, will come in easily in that location.
 
Clamp it down good , use stitch welds alternating around the pipe and let it cool completely after 2-3 short welds . It should even out if you keep the heat down .
Or , send it here , I'll tig it in there nice n tight...
Sarge

Careful! ;) You could end up with a new business making offers like that! Mail in welding...

I appreciate it, but I will never learn to weld well if I don't keep practicing. !Oy was the first thing I ever welded on, so there are a few really ugly welds on him. I will follow your advice and give it a whirl.

I have watched guys Tig weld. It sure looks like that's a better way to weld by far. Saw some YouTube videos of guys welding soda cans together. Would have never thought that possible....
 
Pop cans aren't that hard - my eyeglass tests include welding single edge razor blades @ the cutting edge with a .010" gap / .040" tungsten and using .020" mig wire for filler rod . Only 2 amps , if my eyesight is off even slightly it all goes wrong ...

I already have stuff that comes here via UPS to be welded , just sort of a hobby .
Sarge
 
Good golly Sarge, that's crazy good. Makes learning to weld my patch panels on my fenderwells pretty tame. Sheesh!
 
I swear, every time I think I am about to "get in the groove" working on !OY life slaps me upside the head! Wife of my recently passed business partner has decided she wants to keep his 50% ownership of stock instead of passing it to his son as he intended. Causing some sleepless nights trying to figure out how to get her to honor her dead husbands final wishes.

(Yes, it should have been in writing, it was actually, but he died so suddenly, he never got a chance to sign the papers.)

Anyway... I did manage to get the steering column firewall clamp welded. No pics of that ugly mess but I guarantee it won't fail! I ordered the bolts to mount the steering box to the steering box frame mount, and plan to do that this weekend.

In the meantime: I came up with Coolermans Mobile Body Crane!

WTF is that you ask? Well a pic of this I DO have...!

When doing the wiring in my shop I needed a cheap way to get up to the 14' ceiling. So I bought 2 of the Metal Tech scaffolding systems that can be stacked to get up that high. I also ordered the outrigger stablizers. Each scaffold will support 1000 lbs. One day while working on putting in the conduit for the lights, I discovered that the scaffold would fit over top of the FJ 40! Made a great way to get to the ceiling over top of the FJ40 with out moving it out of the way. I started parking it over top of it just to get it out of the way of other projects.

The day came recently when I decided to start back on the body work. This meant I had to get the body off the frame and get it outside to sand blast it. I really didn't have the funds to buy a rotisserie, nor did I want to buy materials to build one. At the speed I fab and weld it would be years before I got that done... I remembered someone had made a sort of cart with wheels they had placed their body on and started drawing one up. Then I decided I need to clear everything away from the FJ40 (you know how an FJ40 being worked on becomes a magnet for all the things you don't have a place for).

The very first thing I needed to move was the scaffold that was siting over top of the FJ40. As I was moving it I had one of those DUH! moments... Staring me in the face was the perfect solution... I grabbed a couple of big ratchet straps and 10 minutes later I had a mobile body crane! I have since went to four straps so that I can raise and lower the front or rear to work on either end of the bottom, or I can lower all four to get it all the way down to work on the interior. I can easily move it by myself on concrete. I have a gravel drive, so in order to get it outside for sand blasting, I am working on using air filled lawn mower tires welded to adapters that will fit the scaffold.

OK, there is your update for the month... :D

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Time for the once yearly update!
My brother (PO of my truck) had been staying with me for several weeks a while back and he kept after me to get started back on !Oy
We managed to find some time one rainy Saturday and decided to start !Oy up and see where the oil leak in the front was actually coming from. I thought it was the timing cover seal as when I powder coated it, solder ran out of the area where the seal holder was.
It only took a couple of minutes to hook up the battery and pour some gas into the tiller tank I have rigged up and plug up the starting harness I made a while back. He started after about 10 seconds of cranking to get fuel from the tank to the carb!

We let him run for a few minutes while we did other things, then came back to see where the oil was leaking. I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and told him to rev the engine to about 2K RPM and hold it there while I watched for oil drips. When he did we both heard a strange sound coming from the mini-truck power steering pump but ignored it as it was cold.

I was so convinced that the leak was from the seal holder that I had purchased a used cover to replace it with! Imagine my surprise when the leak turned out to be from the bottom of the cover due to me over tightening the bolts and splitting the gasket! :mad:

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We turned the truck off and I started working on cleaning up the cover I had bought. Since I had it, and I was sure it would leak from the seal holder eventually, I decided to go ahead and install it with a new seal. Brother was looking at the truck and asks, What's all this oil over on the drivers side? Huh?
Turns out the mini-truck pump had started leaking badly! :crybaby: I can't win...

So... We decided to go ahead and strip the front of the engine in preparation for the timing cover replacement. Fast forward a few weeks...

I did some research on MUD and discovered that the mini-truck pump is known to be a leaker and rebuilds on it are hit or miss. I decided to do what I should have done in the first place: Go Saginaw.
I contacted Orange45 and he shipped me a pump bracket, a beautiful billet aluminum pulley, and a high pressure pump hose with the proper adapters for the box and pump. I went to Auto Zone and purchased a Duralast #6000 Saginaw pump and a cap for it. Pump was $66.72 with core charge, cap was $4.00. Cap Part # is 82581 and I found it in that HELP! section of Auto Zone. Be aware that all the tapped holes in the #6000 pump are 3/8-16 thread
You will also need the following:
2 2" long 3/8-16 studs (or just cut some 3/8-16 all thread down to size)
2 3/8-16 nuts
10 3/8 washers to use as spacers or
2 spacers made from whatever you have, or you can use washers. I had some brass caps the right size and made mine from that.
1 nut to fit the pump shaft to hold the pulley on. The pump does not come with this nut. It DOES come with the Woodruff key for the pump shaft. Auto Zone did not have the nut.

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It wasn't until I had the old mini-truck pump off, and the new Sag pump bracket installed, that I realized the bracket was NOT going to allow my stock air cleaner to fit! Jim C stop laughing! No, I did not research this bracket before purchase...
So back to MUD for more research and I found on Apeterson's thread that I could weld an "extension" on to my OEM air cleaner mounting bracket and keep my cool old air cleaner. For those wanting to keep their air cleaner and do not want to weld you have two choices: Mark's Offroad has a bracket that mounts the pump lower and allows you to keep your air cleaner where it is, OR keep reading to see what I ended up actually doing. You can see the problem in this pic. The new pump bracket is installed which will put the pump right where the air cleaner sits.

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The instructions that came with the pump warn that you MUST put bolts or studs with thread sealant in the two threaded holes on the BACK of the pump or it will leak. One of these holes we will use for the bottom mount, so I just put another piece of the 3/8-16 all thread in the top hole with teflon tape on it.

I mounted the pump to the bracket then started trying to figure out how in the hell folks were using a water pump bolt to secure the adjusting bracket for the pump. Nothing I tried worked. So.... I found an alternative way to do it. ;) I used the front shock strut bolt. You can see one of the brass spacers I made on the front of the pump. This setup allows a LOT of adjustment room so belt sizing will not be a chore.

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Next was figuring out the bracket I needed to weld onto the OEM air cleaner. I cut a piece of 10ga sheet metal down to 4" x 6" to use as a rough template. I removed the OEM bracket from the head bolts and held it in position away from the pump while I eyeballed what I needed to do.
 
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It was at this point that i realized I could make this work and NOT have to modify my OEM bracket.
Using the bracket as a hole marker, I marked the head bolt holes, drilled them out and mounted the plate to the head.

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Then again using the OEM bracket I marked the new mounting holes on the plate...
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I drilled these holes for 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm bolts and welded matching nuts on the bottom of the plate. Now I had the ability to remove the entire air cleaner assembly without having to take the head bolts out, or mess with those 4 tiny nuts holding the air cleaner to the mounting bracket!

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Here is the final money shot of everything in place. I still have to get a belt but I need to replace the timing cover first...

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Your pics were very helpful in figuring this all out!

I figured this might be better for those that can't weld. They could just NOT weld the nuts to the plate and bolt it down.
 

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