Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (2 Viewers)

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Since we've got no snow and the weather's been really mild, I decided to take my intake manifold off and tear into my my boost compensator to install a new aneroid pin I got a few weeks back.

Old pin/original pin, you can see where the guide pin has been riding on it. Looks like it was going into the over-fueling section of the profile.
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New pin installed onto the diaphragm.
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Made up a 'test apparatus' to run the pressure up and down and see where the guide pin will ride on this rod, and adjust the spring tension.
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From what I've been told, on a more accessible compensator, you can drive/adjust/drive, but since I have to pull the intake manifold to access it, I wanted to get it close the first time.

Paint pen, first run up to 20 psi. several times. You can see it's riding up on the upper part of the profile in the fuel cut/over fuel section. Which means I need more spring pre-load/back out on the toothed wheel to add spring tension.

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Probably put it in and out 20 times, I got the pin to ride in the lower section of the profile, then would adjust it a few clicks, to try and get it to ride up into the flat section, but before the top section, and I'd lose the marking altogether, like maybe the pin isn't touching the aneroid rod at all. The sun set, it got cold, hands were cold, had to put on a headlamp, figured I'd settle for what I had with it riding on the lower section and button it up and take it for a spin.
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From what I could tell on my quick drive, is it looks like it's less smokey, seems to still have good power, need to drive it more. I'm tempted to grind the old pin a bit, so I can mess with it too.

Videos I used for some guidance, and a Gturbo tuning guide pdf as well.



 
Tuning guide referenced above.
 

Attachments

  • Injection Pump Tuning GTurbo.pdf
    3.8 MB · Views: 19
Got a seat from a 2018 79 series.
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The seat rail hole mounts are about an inch longer, so swapped my rails over.
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PO had put some lift blocks on my seats, I swapped those as well.
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I sit a bit higher in this seat, I may need to make some shorter lift blocks or pull them out altogether. This seat is definitely more comfortable than the '89 75 series seat.
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Now I just need to find a matching passenger/RHS seat.
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'Driver's side' from a 2018 RHD 79 series would be nice as it looks like a lot of them are 60/40 not two buckets.
 
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And of course, fix one thing and something else comes up, my speedo started acting up again today...hit a hundred miles an hour on the way home. It's been working fine for weeks. Anyone have an idea what would cause this? Needle bounces around wildly too.
 
And of course, fix one thing and something else comes up, my speedo started acting up again today...hit a hundred miles an hour on the way home. It's been working fine for weeks. Anyone have an idea what would cause this? Needle bounces around wildly too.

Anytime there is bouncing/noise from speedometer it usually is grease/gunk in the cable.
I’ve read you can pull the cable from the sheath and clean it like a bike cable. Or others have sprayed some cleaner down it. I will say I haven’t tried either but will have to eventually as I have a small bounce starting from like 35-45 then goes away.

It’s waiting until it’s warmer
 
Yeah, I've read that as well. It's a brand new cable. I may lube my old cable, if I saved it (CRS), and re-install it. And yes, this weather is not conducive to wrenching outside. Note the seat-rail change above happened in the kitchen...
 
Yeah, I've read that as well. It's a brand new cable. I may lube my old cable, if I saved it (CRS), and re-install it. And yes, this weather is not conducive to wrenching outside. Note the seat-rail change above happened in the kitchen...
How’s the back of your cluster look? I seem to remember there might be grease/gunk where the cable attaches as well. I’d be very careful with what lubricant/cleaner to use on the gauge area.
 
And of course, fix one thing and something else comes up, my speedo started acting up again today...hit a hundred miles an hour on the way home. It's been working fine for weeks. Anyone have an idea what would cause this? Needle bounces around wildly too.
Mine does this. I get over 100kph and it bounces between 100 and 160 kph.
 
I took the cable off the t-case end and pushed the internal cable towards the cluster end and it moved that direction about half an inch. Took it for a spin and it didn't peg. but didn't go over 40. I'll have to check it again on the way to work in the morning.

Wonder if I'm missing this 'seal' , looks like it might keep that internal cable from 'walking'.

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It goes here:
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Don't know what I did to fix the bouncing speedo needle except pull everything apart and put it back in again. Been working great for the last 3-weeks.

Got this digital dual voltmeter for Xmas, finally installed it last night.

I didn't run a ground back to each battery, so the 'Aux' is reading the first battery in the series and the 'Main' is the combined voltage.

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Another beer left on my troopy at Bogus yesterday...last three days up there someone has left me a beverage. I've figured out two of them, but one is still a mystery.

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Removed the right rear jump seat and moved my box-o-crap pelican case to that spot. Makes more sense to have it there as it has my tools, tow strap, CO2 tank etc. in it, easier to get to stuff.

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I think I'm going to move my electrical junk, house battery and DC-DC converter to up behind the driver's seat next.
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Just need to get some plywood and build a box to house it all.
 
A few weeks ago I shut the large rear door, and it bounced back at me...lower hinge pin/bushing combo was done. Ordered a new set of hinges, along with a few other parts.
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Of course the first bolt I turn, snapped off. Weird as it's not down in the 'rust zone' and I've been pretty lucky with most of the hardware on this truck. I was able to drill it out and re-tap, but there wasn't much meat left on the nut...I could just reach up behind the rusted/stripped nut and thread another nut on the bolt.
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Utilizing my crane to support the door. Ended up removing the spare tire when I did the lower hinge, also had to remove the limiter to allow the door to open farther (further?) to get the lower hinge out.
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I also had to pull the panel/rear door table off to get to one of the bolts on the upper hinge.
 
Put new door pull handles on along with new plastic nuts and screws. My handles were loose...due to broken plastic nuts. Wrong color of gray, but that's what's available.
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Next order of business was my dome light not wanting to turn off. Started about December. I've just had the switch off as the light would flicker and not go out completely.

Dug into the driver's side first, think I found the problem.


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Looks like someone soldered in a tiny resistor and spliced a third door switch in the back door. Not sure why they needed to add a resistor.
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New switches in the front doors.
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I'm tempted to splice back into the driver's side and add the one good door switch back to the rear door...

As it is now, the lights work with the new door switches and I was able to find the rear light LED kit and get it installed...holy s*** its bright in there now.
 
A few weeks ago I shut the large rear door, and it bounced back at me...lower hinge pin/bushing combo was done. Ordered a new set of hinges, along with a few other parts.
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Of course the first bolt I turn, snapped off. Weird as it's not down in the 'rust zone' and I've been pretty lucky with most of the hardware on this truck. I was able to drill it out and re-tap, but there wasn't much meat left on the nut...I could just reach up behind the rusted/stripped nut and thread another nut on the bolt.
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Utilizing my crane to support the door. Ended up removing the spare tire when I did the lower hinge, also had to remove the limiter to allow the door to open farther (further?) to get the lower hinge out.
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I also had to pull the panel/rear door table off to get to one of the bolts on the upper hinge.
You could try to weld on what’s remain from the broken bolt.
I use to drill broken bolt too before but not anymore, just when welding doesn’t work.
Sometimes I start by welding a washer on the bolt, then a nut
Most of the time I do a spot weld on the bolt, like 10-15 spots, building « a new » stud over the bold. Sometimes the first try to unscrew it with plier fail (weld not stick because oxydation…) but usually work great the second
I removed all the broken screws from the frame on my troopy
 
Look like a diode
Okay...electrical witchcraft of some sort. So a diode is like a check valve? Lets current flow in one direction only? Whatever it is, it's now in the scrap bin and my dome lights work as they should now. Can't believe I'm still finding things like this 5+ years into owning it.

And on the welding note, I doubt that would have worked on this one, it was rusted pretty bad. I don't think the threads would have broken free and I'd have burned up the paint around it.
 
Thinking about getting some 17" rims for my 45 and going back to 37's on it as it has 4.88s and the 35s are too small for that gearing.
Tire selection is much better in 17" than 16" wheels.

Test fit the 35s on the Troopy last night, I think I did this once before when I first got the 35s, but that was before I put the lift on the Troopy. It's still a tight fit, may need to pull the front mud flaps off.

The road to the local ski hill was pretty slick a few times this year, my plan is to put studs on the 255s and use them for winter tires and run the 35s in the summer.

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Built a new electrical box and relocated my house battery, USB/cig plug & DC-DC converter. Also added an inverter, just 'cause I had it, not sure I'll use it, and added another 12 fuse panel for loads in the back of the vehicle. My other one is up under the dash, next to the heater.

It's temporarily strapped down as I need to pull up the wood floor and add some wood prong nuts to the bottom side of the floor to bolt it down.
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I may end up rebuilding it as I don't like the battery hold-down and I need another 4-post busbar for the all the grounds instead of the one-post that I'm currently using.
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Wires sure do take up a lot of space...
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