OVERTHUNK — ARB Compresor + SLEE Bracket…fuse box clearance?
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bloc
SILVER Star
I also did the manifold with no plans for lockers. Cooling the compressed air and a good location for the QD fitting was important.
Also if you all don’t know about it ARB makes a rubber cover for the QD fitting to keep dirt out of it. ARB Part number 0740113
Orange Hat
SILVER Star
I keep reading more and more about the heat that comes off the unit and thus another reason for the manifold. Slee was out of stock on this manifold but perhaps I should wait to find one somewhere before taking on this task...nuts!
Yep Slee just installed mine with the manifold and locker.
if anyone needs pics of anything lmk
ill have to see if my box of goodies from Slee install came with the cover.
Brian also suggested keeping a couple of the fuses on hand because they’re not standard and if you need one on the trail nobody else is gonna have a spare.
bloc
SILVER Star
I bought the compressor, ARB manifold and air line kit, and none of it had the dust cover. Seems like an oversight, but also not too surprising.
That's a lot of wires. I'll be doing the same in the near future. I actually enjoy wiring and electronics, but it's the contortionist twisting and scraped knuckles that do it for me.
Instead of rubber washers, check Ace hardware for 1/4" spacers. They look like 1/4" thick washes and are maybe 1/2"-2/3" in diameter. They'll be a permanent solution and will not crack and deteriorate over time.
Yea I've seen it, I went with the Wit's End Pacifier instead.
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers (ACP-NITTO)
The heat transferred into the first foot of air hose is no joke if you run your air chuck directly off of the compressor hence the benefit of the manifold and braided air line. It's enough to make the hose fail after a dozen or so uses if using it to fill up all four tires 33"+.
- Thread starter
- #48
Manifold can be found at Amazon sometimes. I bought mine from Amazon warehouse. It was a return item and saved like 20%
yup I got my spacers from ACE. But they are stainless steel. Tried some antiskid feet from Home Depot. 1/4” tall but central hole in the washer was too small. Drilled some out and destroyed a few. Ace had various options but nothing that really was perfect
Found some 1/2” rubber feet on Amazon’s. Durometer scale 30. Central hole should be big enough for the M6 bolts. These have a metal sleeve+washer type of setup which should be more durable.
I bought longer bolts from Ace to accommodate for the added height. Grade 5 so same as the ones that came with ARB.
And will use locktite since there will be squishyness between compressor and bracket. And will be using 8 feet and 8 bolts to just make it as sturdy as possible.
I do love the OCD part of wiring. Everything is labeled and heat shrunk and sleeved and grouped. I just hate the part you mentioned. Passing all of that thru the grommet was a F bomb fest.
now I’m stuck at the wiring a ACC and dash light stage. All my stuff is on the passenger side as my LINX is under the pass seat. No good ACC or dash light on this side. Fuse box does have a couple empty spots that are IGN/ON powered. I’ll probably just compromise and put the ACC power pickup and light together in one of these spots. As im pretty sure ill never be running the compressor with the engine in just ACC mode. And my switch is in the SLEE bracket so don’t need it to match my dash lighting. And I did use a fuse tap for this. My goal is not to have to modify the factory wiring at all. I’ve made a few pigtail wiring looms to tap into spots. And modified this one to get my headlight pickups.
it’s been a super fun project and twice as frustrating. Got the LINX up and running and updated. Pretty slick. Wait til I post my overthunk mount for the LINX screen unit.
And the ARB covers are not included. Sold separately. They can be had for like a few dollars. I think I got mine at Northridge 4x4.
Some places are charging like 15 bucks each. Rip off. Check out Slee heritage build. They have these cool plugs with a ring and chain. (Guess they are called pacifiers as above) They look super overland tacticool. I preferred the clean ARB cap.
yup I got my spacers from ACE. But they are stainless steel. Tried some antiskid feet from Home Depot. 1/4” tall but central hole in the washer was too small. Drilled some out and destroyed a few. Ace had various options but nothing that really was perfect
Found some 1/2” rubber feet on Amazon’s. Durometer scale 30. Central hole should be big enough for the M6 bolts. These have a metal sleeve+washer type of setup which should be more durable.
I bought longer bolts from Ace to accommodate for the added height. Grade 5 so same as the ones that came with ARB.
And will use locktite since there will be squishyness between compressor and bracket. And will be using 8 feet and 8 bolts to just make it as sturdy as possible.
I do love the OCD part of wiring. Everything is labeled and heat shrunk and sleeved and grouped. I just hate the part you mentioned. Passing all of that thru the grommet was a F bomb fest.
now I’m stuck at the wiring a ACC and dash light stage. All my stuff is on the passenger side as my LINX is under the pass seat. No good ACC or dash light on this side. Fuse box does have a couple empty spots that are IGN/ON powered. I’ll probably just compromise and put the ACC power pickup and light together in one of these spots. As im pretty sure ill never be running the compressor with the engine in just ACC mode. And my switch is in the SLEE bracket so don’t need it to match my dash lighting. And I did use a fuse tap for this. My goal is not to have to modify the factory wiring at all. I’ve made a few pigtail wiring looms to tap into spots. And modified this one to get my headlight pickups.
it’s been a super fun project and twice as frustrating. Got the LINX up and running and updated. Pretty slick. Wait til I post my overthunk mount for the LINX screen unit.
And the ARB covers are not included. Sold separately. They can be had for like a few dollars. I think I got mine at Northridge 4x4.
Some places are charging like 15 bucks each. Rip off. Check out Slee heritage build. They have these cool plugs with a ring and chain. (Guess they are called pacifiers as above) They look super overland tacticool. I preferred the clean ARB cap.
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- Thread starter
- #49
I am a little unsure about my central coupler location. I had to find a extra big washer to make it work. The ARB line was like a perfect fit and it runs between the 2 compressor cooling fins perfectly. But also potential problem….
but I’m willing to give it a try as the fit and low profile works perfectly with my build. Haven’t found a better layout. I’ll take some laser gun temps of various areas and will see. Maybe some of the guys running stuff in a more standard layout can do the same and we can compare.
but I’m willing to give it a try as the fit and low profile works perfectly with my build. Haven’t found a better layout. I’ll take some laser gun temps of various areas and will see. Maybe some of the guys running stuff in a more standard layout can do the same and we can compare.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Yea I've seen it, I went with the Wit's End Pacifier instead.
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers
Quick Connect Air Coupler Pacifier- NITTO Hi-Flow Couplers (ACP-NITTO)absolute-wits-end.com
The heat transferred into the first foot of air hose is no joke if you run your air chuck directly off of the compressor hence the benefit of the manifold and braided air line. It's enough to make the hose fail after a dozen or so uses if using it to fill up all four tires 33"+.
Careful. For you ARB compressor guys… That link is not the one compatible with ARB.
Scroll down and see the fine print (which wasn’t there when I tried a couple years ago before they realized the issue)…
If you want the Wits end unit for an ARB compressor…it has to be this one:
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Also if it helps there is an air filter relocation kit ARB part
171319 - you need 2 of them for a dual compressor I believe BUT I think the fittings are 1/4 NPT anyway so you could make your own easy enough.
Also FWIW... the ARB manifold uses 2 1/4th NPT ports at the ends for input/output.. there is no reason to use the supplied airline and IMHO it's too small in ID Diameter and does not include a check valve to be a leader hose.
You can simply add a 1/4 NPT 90 adapter and use a 1/4th NPT hose with check valve, to go from the compressor manifold to the external manifold or a remote air tank etc. The dual compressor manifold and the external manifold use the same fittings.
I still have no idea why they are kludging together all of these fittings with the JIC standard stuff thrown in...Iin one Kit there are NPT, BBSP, and JIC standard fittings.
171319 - you need 2 of them for a dual compressor I believe BUT I think the fittings are 1/4 NPT anyway so you could make your own easy enough.
Also FWIW... the ARB manifold uses 2 1/4th NPT ports at the ends for input/output.. there is no reason to use the supplied airline and IMHO it's too small in ID Diameter and does not include a check valve to be a leader hose.
You can simply add a 1/4 NPT 90 adapter and use a 1/4th NPT hose with check valve, to go from the compressor manifold to the external manifold or a remote air tank etc. The dual compressor manifold and the external manifold use the same fittings.
I still have no idea why they are kludging together all of these fittings with the JIC standard stuff thrown in...Iin one Kit there are NPT, BBSP, and JIC standard fittings.
- Thread starter
- #52
OVERTHUNK — Custom fuse panel
So another one of my overthunk projects…. On my main battery I wanted to have clean fuse panel. And have it mounted to my SLEE battery strap. With the ability to remove it if needed. Supplies (links are below) ABS Board Quick disconnect buttons 3/8” foam weather stripping Red/blue locktite...
forum.ih8mud.com
Here is how I ran the wiring I tucked the connector toward the rear near the brake booster reservoir near that mysterious metal hook thing. And then ran it under the side trim panel passing it through the supports with grommets protecting the wiring.
Julian73
SILVER Star
The diagram may not work as the black wire in the two pin connector is actually a ground lead back through the compressor to the main black ground wires in the 4-pin connector; thus this setup would always have the compressor powered up regardless of switch position. Besides it is always safer to place the switch in the power supply lead rather than in the ground lead.
Wiring the ARB switch would give you three choices; a) for no switch illumination just cut the Purple wire at switch and connect lead from fuse to Terminal 2 and the lead back to the compressor to Terminal 3. Black wire can be taped off. b) If you also wish the switch to illuminate when 'ON" then follow (a) plus also connect the Black wire to Terminal 8. c) If you which to provide switch background illumination under all conditions (without dimming) then jumper Purple wire at Terminal 3 to Terminal 6 and Black wire would also be jumped to Terminal 7. As an alternative Terminal 6 can be separately supplied from a dash illumination power supply, this would provide a dimmer function (not much need underhood).
Julian73
SILVER Star
Yes you can simplify by staying with NPT hose, however the common reason to use JIC/AN hose fittings is that they are much more suitable for clocking. It's very common in racing practice to switch over JIC/AN hose and fittings.
7000ft
SILVER Star
I ordered this absolute-wits-end manifold pacifier ARB Fitting Air Coupler Pacifier - https://absolute-wits-end.com/arb-fitting-air-coupler-pacifier/ a couple of weeks, but never heard from vendor of it's shipping status, so I sent him an inquiry by text since his VM was full. He responded with a refund without an explanation. Any one here done business this this vendor? I wonder if he shut down his manufacturing operation?Careful. For you ARB compressor guys… That link is not the one compatible with ARB.
Scroll down and see the fine print (which wasn’t there when I tried a couple years ago before they realized the issue)…
View attachment 2784933
If you want the Wits end unit for an ARB compressor…it has to be this one:
bloc
SILVER Star
He was very responsive and well respected back when I was building 80s. Not sure what’s up.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I actually just received one from them last week…so they are operating. The prior time though (maybe a year ago or more…when I discovered the early ones didn’t fit the ARB)…I didn’t hear back after noting the issue.
This time though…it arrived about three weeks or so after ordering.
I believe they fabricate them in-house…?…so maybe its a matter of batches and limited demand(?). Its a pretty obscure item after all.
Anyway… it works a charm and is nicely finished. Hopefully yours will arrive soon.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I've bought several things from him (including 3 of those pacifiers), and he's always made amazing stuff. He's a small shop, maybe even just him alone? I think his wife is going through some very serious illness and treatment so I can imagine that he's spending less time on the business. Personally I'd cut him some slack.
I have to agree, it's out of character for him but he's also in a bad way of late with his wife. It's been in and out of the hospital, surgeries, treatments, etc. so he's obviously side tracked and for reasons I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
elcie200
SILVER Star
Just another data point... I ordered one of those on Sept 8. Got the shipping confirmation on Sept 9, and it got here in about a week or so. Wasn't overnight shipping or anything. But totally reasonable.
