Overheating issues (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser70]

Heating is working ok?
Is it blowing cold air when warmed up, if so you probably have air in the system.
Park it with the front uphill.When cooled down, make sure the heating is on full, lift the radiator cap of and start it up. let it run until water starts running out of the radiator and install cap.
If you get pressurised system or bubbles in overflow bottle almost straight away, the head gasket is probably still leaking or worse case scenario, maybe the block has a crack.
Hopefully its not the later, you can get a kit to see if you are getting combustion gasses mixed in the rad fluid, might be worth doing for peace of mind.

 

[benmgsr]

reply

Thanks guys,
The fan clutch is new...
Will the "front in the air" really work, as the coolant cap is not in the radiator, its just in front of the block.

Thanks

 

[crushers]

so does this happen only once or often now?
if it is just once then the spike is when the thermostate is opening and temp drop is the cooler water circulating past the sensor.

also, factory gauges are a suggestion. if you are really paranoid then get an aftermarket gauge installed for confirmation.

 

[Cruiser70]

Thanks guys,
The fan clutch is new...
Will the "front in the air" really work, as the coolant cap is not in the radiator, its just in front of the block.

Thanks

Its possible, I have heard of air being trapped in the heater matrix.
If you have no hot air, then there is more than likely air still trapped in the heater matrix.
Does it fluctuate (not sure if that spelt correctly) or stay permantly stay under temperature as Crushers stated?

 

[Cruiser70]

Also check the overflow bottle, I know it sounds stupid.
But if that overflow pipe is not in fluid, it will blow fluid out when its get warm or expands and gulp air back in when it cools down....this would normally show as over temperature though.

 

[benmgsr]

Thanks guys, it only does it once, then stays at a constant temperature. It has hot air and the overflow is Fine. I think it may be OK, just moving with the thermostat. I will get another gauge installed though.
Thanks

 

[jake2far]

OK fellas, ive had the car back for a week now....
Had a NEW 14bt head put on it. The old one was cracked beyond repair in a number of places and the headgasket was leaking all over the place.

Cost me an arm and a leg, but it works now.

Could you please inform us where you purchased a 14BT head from and how much did it cost? is there any differences between the 13BT and 14BT heads?

Thank you,

Jim

 

[benmgsr]

APPARENTLY (I have no proof), the 14BT head has larger valves etc, but bolts directly onto the 13BT block.
I had my work done at PGS 4wd in Mornington VIC, and they only found ONE new head in AUS (somewhere in WA). It cost (for the full head put together with my old valves) approx $2800..... pretty steep. Bloody diesels.
If anyone wants my old head (14BT head, was a replacement a while ago, but noe installed correctly), let me know. It has a few cracks in it though...

 

[Hulsty]

Could you not get a new 13BT head or is the 14BT head the replacement?

Is there anyway to identify between them? My car had a new head fitted about 6 months ago.

 

[roscoFJ73]

APPARENTLY (I have no proof), the 14BT head has larger valves etc, but bolts directly onto the 13BT block.
I had my work done at PGS 4wd in Mornington VIC, and they only found ONE new head in AUS (somewhere in WA). It cost (for the full head put together with my old valves) approx $2800..... pretty steep. Bloody diesels.
If anyone wants my old head (14BT head, was a replacement a while ago, but noe installed correctly), let me know. It has a few cracks in it though...

Do you thinks it adds any power.? There must be thousands of them and 15B heads laying around in truck wreckers

 

[crushers]

<musings and ramblings ahead>

larger valves in a HIGH RPM engine is needed.
in a diesel with a max rpm of 4200 it would be redundant.

now, that being said, if you have a high volumn turbo and a high flow exhaust then there is a small chance that the valves might cause restriction so larger valves might be advantageous but once again that would only be at very high rpm air flow.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The valves would only be slightly larger to match the extra 200cc a 14B has over a 3B.
Where does the figure of 4200 rpms come from? Most of the Japanese truck range are speed limited in 5th gear to 120 kph and would be well under 4200rpm

 

[crushers]

max rpm for a B series engine is 4200 (PZ,HZ,HDT, KZ is 4700)
please explain this statement to me:
"Most of the Japanese truck range are speed limited in 5th gear to 120 kph"

none of the trucks i have brought in have been speed limited in any way, shape or form. (not trying to be a smart ass, just curious if this was something specific for Oz)

 

[Hulsty]

I think Rosco is talking about Japanese trucks, ie the Dyna, not 4wd's.

 

[crushers]

that could possibly be, my Elf can only do 120 and the Canter is the same... i thought they were just slow...
although they rev out fine in the lower gears and they are mechanical, not elec controlled so i wonder how they pulled that off...

 

[roscoFJ73]

that could possibly be, my Elf can only do 120 and the Canter is the same... i thought they were just slow...
although they rev out fine in the lower gears and they are mechanical, not elec controlled so i wonder how they pulled that off...

Yes Im talking about Dynas and such as that is where the 14B comes from. I dont know about the old ones but the new ones are electronically governend.

With the big flat front ,I doubt they would do much more any way.

You can see on the Hino 4x4 cab chassis it is speed limited to 100kph and has a max rpm of 2550
http://www.hino.com.au/Upload/specifications/500/1322_crew.pdf