Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (7 Viewers)

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OK fellas, wife and daughter are out of town till weekend, so I thought it's best if I do my valve seals. Upon tear-down I found that my lifters are "chipped" or i don't even know what word to use to describe them. The rockers also sported nice indents here and there, although not as bad as I had envisioned. I will attempt to do my valve seals via compressed cylinder procedure but considering the condition of my lifters, should I do a full tear down and rebuild? I attempted to do a compression test and I had no one to help me so I tried to take video of the gauge. I can see the gauge climbing to about 300 psi. The manual says min. compression to be 284 psi. Should I just do the valve seals replace the lifters, resurface the rockers and put it back together (since its not to difficult to do that quick) and then do a compression test? Or just go ahead and do a full tear-down and rebuild? I am afraid if I do that, My truck will be decommissioned for too long a while.
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More photos. The first photo above shows the one lifter in best condition followed by the ones in worst condition. All of them have some pitting, chipping or something.
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Today I took on the valve seal replacement job. Two bananas. I purchased a compression test kit which included an adapter that fit the glow plug hole. I then attached my compressor line to pressurize cylinder and followed the steps as per mud thread on how to do the job. Took 2 hours at most and I am relieved to have done it.
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These last few days have been very productive for me. I have cleaned and prepped the side of the block for the install of the lifter covers. They have also been cleaned and painted. I have removed the block heater, no need for it, my truck is always garaged, I have replaced front diff input seal, it was the only thing leaking, and now i'm waiting on my rockers and lifters to button her up. I also got rear axle bearings which I will replace after my engine is buttoned up. I would do it now but i have no room to slide the axles out of the housing. Doh, should have parked the truck in my other garage bay. Upon completion of this work I decided to do a tally of all the parts and things I have done to the truck since June of last year. These things are not cheap to keep. Mind u, I use only Toyota parts, with small exceptions.
Things done so far:
-air filter
-brakes front
-brakes rear including all new hardware
-new rear brake cylinders
-master cylinder
-fixed air con
-full dash tear-down and revert all electrics to original
-new clutch kit
-billsteins all 4 corners
-new exhaust- rear section
-new bosch priming pump
-new injection pump diaphragm
-rebuilt injectors with new denso nozzles
-new valve cover gasket
-new oil pressure mechanical gauge
-new oil pressure relief valve
-snorkel
-new valve seals
-new diff input seals front and back
-new stereo
-new door seals - exterior top
-new dash cover
-sway bar links front and rear
-new rockers- to be installed
-new lifters- to be installed
-new rear axle bearings- to be installed
-valve adjustment- to be done
I am sure I am omitting something. In any instance I spent about $3200 on the above, labor not included. (I do the labor). This is only a guide so others know what to expect in case they wonder what it costs to keep these beasts on the road. At this point I think my truck is mechanically flawless so need to tackle rust. That my friends is another story.
 
So I put everything together, done valve adjustment, cold that is, and I just need to install glow plugs to get her started. Hoping to do that this afternoon.
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I did remove my engine block heater and I have an open hole that I have a hard time finding a plug for. It's 16mmx1.25 pitch. Tried some oil pan plugs but none fit. Anyone have any ideas where they get a bolt in that size? I'm going to try home depot. Lowes came short.
 
Good job!
Where was your block heater installed, out of curiosity?
If u look up the page in the pictures of the valve seal job, u will see a hose just under the exhaust. That is where the heater was connected. Then it was teed into the one hose at the top of the engine that goes to the heater valve. There are pics of my engine bay somewhere in the beginning of the thread showing the heater setup. she's all up and running now. Will post a video of it. I redone the valve adjustment after warming her up. She's nice and quiet now. Also, a 3/8 npt plug worked to plug the empty hole now. I see no leaks and she runs beautifull.
 
Ok, so after valve seals, new lifters and rockers and valve adjustment, I am still burning oil and smoking up a black storm. I did a compression test and it turns out my truck is in the low end of the allowable compression range, hence a full rebuild is in order. Our dear friend @beno hooked me up with what I need. So I will pull the engine and do a full rebuild. I am contemplating putting a turbo on my beast so I guess my question is can I use a Mitsubishi unit rather than a ct26? I can has that one for free from a friend of mine off a fuso. What is everyone's take?
 
Nice work, sorry it did not help completely.
If it runs fine the smoke is not that bad, so I think if you want to drive another year no problem.

Turbo on rebuild engine should be fine, dont know about Mitsubishi and dont recall others doing that, I would go for the ct26, possibly new because when I looked a a used one it needed a new shaft and that is the most expensive part in them so used is mostly worn out or about to, tolerances are to narrow with second hand turbo I think.

Might be better to rebuild and test drive a bit and then concentrate on turbo and parts because if all bolts are fresh it is no problem to remove the exhaust and stuff.
 
There is a bit of mitsu turbo info somewhere in my previous thread.
Top mounted th04 on flipped 2H manifold.

Ok turbo, spools fast right off the bat, but I didn't have 5spd so it wasn't the best highway setup anyway.

I only hooked up oil cooling, but would probably be a good idea to use the water provisions too.

With a big ic, it ran really steady for years, with 1.1bar and a bit more fuel.
Had to upgrade the clutch to a 12HT unit after a couple of years.

All that being said, the mitsu unit is pretty old school, there are better alternatives out there with modern hints like bearings whatnot. :)
 
Great info, thanks for the answers. Well, eBay is full of ct26 turbos in the 2 to 3 hundred dollar range but I read somewhere that they are no bueno. If i try to search at any decent vendors, they are in the 7 to 8 hundred dollar range. So I was thinking getting a used one and perhaps try it out. Now, what I am going to do is I will definitely do the oil drain provision on the oil pan and maybe cap it if I decide to skip the turbo for now. But seeing that the engine will be out of the engine bay and all, it would have been awesome to go ahead with the turbo install. I can also easily do the water cooling as well because i used to have an engine block heater so I can use the same provisions to run my lines.
@hj 60 I could drive another year or so but its going through about a quart of oil every few hundred miles. And besides that, the truck gets really sooty on the back door from all the black smoke. I want to be able to open my hatch without getting my hands dirty.
 
What a bummer.

Do you have any specs of Mitsu turbo? Like wheel sizes, model..?
Have no idea about the turbo specs, would have to take it off the truck. Its been sitting for 2 or so years. The fuso was parked down a hill with a trailer unloading a bobcat. This fella forgot to put down the pegs on the trailer and the bobcat being unloaded tilted the trailer's tongue lifting the fuso's rear in the air. They then rolled down the hill and into another parked truck, totaling the fuso. It had a good engine with low miles and such. That is why I was thinking maybe I could get that turbo
 
G'Day

If you're going to turbo it and you plan to keep the truck for a while then I'd strongly suggest getting a kit.

There are some great ones out there for a 2H and they provide all the parts you will need/want for a quality installation.

I put a turbo on a 3B in a BJ70 some years ago and then did a 2H later.

With the 3B I worked out all the gas flows and things and custom ordered a turbo from Garrett. It is a real fiddle to get things right, what with the oil and water-cooling lines and with the inlet and pressure hoses. I also had to source all the fasteners and stuff and the correct diameter dump pipe with the correct bends. It took me ages to sort it out, I then put a custom intercooler on it and that was more fiddling about with mandrel bends and bodywork.

With the kit for the 2H I bought it from Safari (pretty sure they don't sell them any more) but it was much much more straight forward. They supplied all the brackets and pipes and it was a weekend job.

With all the mucking about the best option is definitely a kit from a reputable supplier. I know AXT still sell kits:

Toyota 2H Landcruiser 4.0 Turbocharger Kit

These are tried and tested and work very well. They will initially seem expensive but all the work is done.

Cheers

Ironbark
 
Thanks for the advice. I looked at kits before but the prices deterred me from making a move on them. I might just leave it be, just as Toyota intended.
 
Thanks for the advice. I looked at kits before but the prices deterred me from making a move on them. I might just leave it be, just as Toyota intended.

Yes, it's one of those things you have to really make work for you on more than one level.

I had a very nice blue G-wagon, a 1985 HJ60. They go forever if well maintained and this one was in true time warp nick. I couldn't bare to mess with it, so passed it on to a friend who still babies it.

If it were me, with the truck you've got, I'd drive it for a year or so and get it fully recomissioned. Get all the bits and pieces fixed up, do the water pump, cooling and heating and see how you feel about it.

18 months to 2 years down the track you'll know if you really want to keep the truck and if so if you really need the turbo. With tax free export status and the exchange rate as it is one of those kits would set you back about $2400 U.S. so it's not cheap by any stretch.

Cheers

Ironbark
 

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