Optima Battery and HF 2000W Inverter Installed (1 Viewer)

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Mar 23, 2006
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New to Seattle, WA
Hope this is wired up right! Its ugly right now but I don't have much time to make it clean yet. We leave tomorow for Seattle, from Orlando. The yellow top is really good for the 80 right? Are there different types of yellow tops? I picked this one up from Dicount AP. The HIR bulbs are a lot brighter than they were with the other battery. THe starter is a lot faster on the crank up...really impressed with the battery so far.

The inverter is the Harbor Frieght cheapo, but I was wondering if anyone knows if the 3 fans on the side automatically kick on when it gets hot, or if they usually kick on when you turn it on? Even when the switch is off there is some sort of internal fan still blowing, whats up with that?

As you can see in the pics I installed a 150Amp breaker going from the inverter to the battery. THis way I can totally kill any power coming from the battery to the inverter. There are also a couple of fuses back by the inverter to cover myself. Its grounded to the floor in the cargo area, should that be a good ground?

As always, thanks!
 
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Be careful about running that yellow top down with the engine off and not having enough amps left to start (make sure you have jumpers with you ;)). You might want to consider adding a blue top (or some kind of deep cycle) in a dual conviguration to run the converter. If you do it so the batteries are seperated you will be able to run your converter with the motor off.

That converter will get hot quickly.

I have my battery power ready. My next step is to remove the rear heater unit to install a converter under the front passenger seat. I also intend to lift the front lip of the passenger seat for increased movement to the rear.

Are you going to carry a coffee maker with you?
 
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Optima rainbow

Be careful about running that yellow top down with the engine off and not having enough amps left to start (make sure you have jumpers with you ;)). You might want to consider adding a blue top (or some kind of deep cycle) in a dual conviguration to run the converter. If you do it so the batteries are seperated you will be able to run your converter with the motor off.

If I understand it right, the difference between a blue top Optima and a Yellow top Optima is dye in the plastic and an extra set of posts. They are both deep cycle/starting batteries. They hold the same ratings through sizes over these two colors.

The Red top is different though.

The white zone is for the immediate loading and unloading of passengers only. There is no parking in the red zone.
 
If I understand it right, the difference between a blue top Optima and a Yellow top Optima is dye in the plastic and an extra set of posts. They are both deep cycle/starting batteries. They hold the same ratings through sizes over these two colors.

The Red top is different though.

The white zone is for the immediate loading and unloading of passengers only. There is no parking in the red zone.

I see. I didn't recall correctly. I researched optima about 4 years ago when I bought my two 6 volt red tops that I run in series. At that time I had planned on replacing my aux batt (diehard gold/pre conversion starter batt) with a blue top because I wanted the extra posts. I had the blue top stuck in my head. :rolleyes:

Now I am bent on using an Odyssey which gives more CCAs, CAs, and AHs in a slightly smaller package. It also charges faster and is a little more expensive.

No doubt, Optimas are great batterries and yellow tops rock. :cheers:
 
I did a similar installation of a 1500 Watt invereter and I was able to mount it just behind that pannel that yours is on. I then mounted a remote power switch on the outside of that pannel and ran a 4 outlet extension into the storage compartment so all I have to do is open the cover and make my connections there. I also have a dual battery setup with an Optima Red top up front under the hood and an Excide Optimum Blue top deep cycle marine mounted underneath the back floor. Since I do not use the stock spare location, I just removed that cross member and took off the chain lift assembly, flipped the cross member over to allow more clearance between it and the floor, and reinstalled it in the same location. I then made a support bracket and some rubber padding and mounted the battery on its side with the top facing toward the front. I ran #2 wire through the body into the PS rear compartment and to the inverter. I also have a HellRoaring battery isolator up front with the Mean Green 200A altinator delivering charge to the aux battery. I also have a 1KW hf (Ham) amplifier in back running off the same Excide as the inverter but obviously not operating at the same time. I have room to add probably up to two more similar batteries underneath if needed, but I might just add one more across the current one for more AH for the inverter since it would be running continously where as the hf amplifier is varying on voice peaks. I will try to make some pictures if you are interested. I just wanted to try and keep the back interior as roomy as possible. I used to have the battery just sitting in the back and it always got in the way.

Mark
 
This is what Ive been working on the last few days .
I put in a dual battery kit from IPOR and have been hooking this stuff up .
I'm waiting for my 100a breaker to come in on Friday and i'll have pics of whats going on under the hood and my relocated washer bottle with a supercharger fun too.
invert1.jpg
invert2.jpg
fuseblock.jpg
 
How did you come up with that removable panel?

The access panel is already there. I just took the pocket off the back of the main panel. The pocket is held on by a few plastic melted "rivet" looking things .
As for venting I think I'll be OK with the speaker grill/bottom vent and the side vent behind the siding window
 
. Its grounded to the floor in the cargo area, should that be a good ground?

As always, thanks!

It's hard to tell from the pic but are those two ground wires pinched under the tiedown plate? I can't see a ring terminal in the picture. If you want to use that bolt as a ground the minimum you should do is:

1. Remove all paint surrounding the bolt hole

2. Solidly crimp on an appropriate ring terminal

3. Sandwich the ring terminal between the plate and the body

If this is what you've done, good job.

If it were me, I'd run the ground parrallel to the power wire and then ground at the frame. Remember that any resistance in the ground path will increase the amount of current the inverter draws and subsequently drain your battery even faster.
 
This is what Ive been working on the last few days .
I put in a dual battery kit from IPOR and have been hooking this stuff up .

Thats wierd I asked IPOR if they had a kit and they told me no....whats up with that?

That stuff looks awesome, I'll probally do that when I get to Seattle.
The inverter has been really helpful, used a bunch for a drop light to light up everything...
 
Thats wierd I asked IPOR if they had a kit and they told me no....whats up with that?
I waited for this kit for a awhile and its a prototype (3+ months)as it was a " Hey Lance, when ever you get around to it " as he has been busy with bigger projects and working on this on the side

That stuff looks awesome.


Thanks
I still have to mount the Light Box , First Aid kit and the fire ext. in the back . there will be more pics as I go
 
I waited for this kit for a awhile and its a prototype (3+ months)as it was a " Hey Lance, when ever you get around to it " as he has been busy with bigger projects and working on this on the side




Thanks
I still have to mount the Light Box , First Aid kit and the fire ext. in the back . there will be more pics as I go

Did you ever get around to finishing up the project? Any pics would be cool to take a look at.

Thanks.
 
I second that. After my latest trip to Mammoth and my cell phone dying (DC plug walked away) and then needing to charge my camera battery I decide this needs to be done. Wiring diagram would be ideal as well.
 

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