Oh ok, I must have missed that the optima is already installed.
Opinions on fridges (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MCtree
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If you have the optima already you should probably just use that unless you don’t want to worry about running the truck every day to recharge it. I mean, I’d go lithium, but to me battery anxiety is a thing. You’re talking to the guy who kept running down 100Ah AGM batteries in his trailer so he built a 271Ah/3500Wh LiFePO4. I tend to overcompensate.
- Thread starter
- #143
Okay. So I have been testing my setup.
The Ecoflow Delta 2 lithium batter will power the fridge/freezer (dometic 75D) for about 24 hours in a 70 degree environment with the fridge set to 34 and the freezer set to 1.
It consumes about 40watts.
If I plug the Ecoflow into my Land Cruiser’s 12v outlet, I can push 103 watts into my ecoflow.
So 40 out and 103 in.
Is my logic wrong or does this mean that I need to run my engine for about 11 hours every day in order to keep my fridge running?
My rough math:
If I run the fridge for 12 hours it will run the Ecoflow down to 50%.
Since I get about double the wattage inwards that I do outwards, it will take 11 hours or so to charge it back up to 100% and then I can stop charging for another 12 hours to run it back down to 50%.
This is fine if I’m on the road driving. But if I’m camping, I don’t want to have to run my engine for 12 hours a day.
How do you guys handle this?
(And yes, my installed Aux battery will help some but it doesn’t change the steady-state)
The Ecoflow Delta 2 lithium batter will power the fridge/freezer (dometic 75D) for about 24 hours in a 70 degree environment with the fridge set to 34 and the freezer set to 1.
It consumes about 40watts.
If I plug the Ecoflow into my Land Cruiser’s 12v outlet, I can push 103 watts into my ecoflow.
So 40 out and 103 in.
Is my logic wrong or does this mean that I need to run my engine for about 11 hours every day in order to keep my fridge running?
My rough math:
If I run the fridge for 12 hours it will run the Ecoflow down to 50%.
Since I get about double the wattage inwards that I do outwards, it will take 11 hours or so to charge it back up to 100% and then I can stop charging for another 12 hours to run it back down to 50%.
This is fine if I’m on the road driving. But if I’m camping, I don’t want to have to run my engine for 12 hours a day.
How do you guys handle this?
(And yes, my installed Aux battery will help some but it doesn’t change the steady-state)
You definitely don’t want to use your engine to do 100w of DC charging. Be better off with a solar panel.
If you plan to use your engine, you can get a dc to dc charger that can output whatever the max voltage input of the mppt in the EcoFlow is (probably not very high). Or you can get a 12v inverter that can max out the AC input of the EcoFlow. This is my plan.
Either that or you need a much bigger battery, or somewhere in between.
This is why I settled on a solar panel being the only viable option for a full time fridge. Plus 70 degrees isn’t even close to realistic where I am in Texas. We just had pretty much two months straight over 100 degrees.
UPR LC
GOLD Star
The Ecoflow can handle up to 500 watts of DC charging through the solar port. The trick is that it is limited to 15 amps, so you need to boost the voltage. Victron sells a DC to DC converter that you can take your 12V car power and boost it to 24V power to the Ecoflow. 24V times 15 amps = 360 watts of charging power from your car.
There are Youtube videos showing how to do this and testing various products.
It seems the Ecoflow limits the car charging to 8 amps at 12V, so around 100 watts. Which is pretty typical for cigarette plug limits.
Another option is to get a 100-200 watt solar panel (even portable) for when you are stationary and charge your batteries or Ecoflow.
I will offer one other thing I noticed, keeping the fridge/freezer cold makes the Dometic run a lot more than if you up the temp a bit.
- Thread starter
- #147
As usual, thank all of you for this input!
This forum is so great.
@lx200inAR,
Capital idea! This shows how little I understand electricity. I don’t understand how a device, an inverter in this case, can somehow “create” more energy!
But nevertheless, I don’t doubt you.
I actually have a 300W inverter.
Problem is, as soon as I plugged my Ecoflow into the inverter this morning, it blew the 15A fuse between the Aux battery and the 12v plug I had installed in my cargo area.
Thoughts on what I can do differently?
Edit: in looking at the Ecoflow app, I see I can actually restrict the wattage input on the AC side. I can pick 200W or 300w and then it’s a slider up to 1200W
@SF1911A1
To be fair, that 70F testing environ was my living room. I too am in Texas and it’s still grossly hot here.
But I don’t plan on using this fridge much here in Houston. Mostly it’s for camping and I think the idea of camping in this heat is for crazy people.
I’m actually heading up to San Rafael Swell in Utah where it should be considerably cooler. I just don’t want to have to rely on colder ambient temps to prolong my battery life.
@UPR LC
Yes, the ecoflow Dleta 2 is limited to 500W through solar, but am I reading it wrong that it actually allows up to 1100W DC if it’s not solar?
us.ecoflow.com
Though since there is only one DC input, I’m not sure how it would differentiate.
And thanks for the suggestion of the YouTube videos. I actually searched for a DC to DC charger last night after @lx200inAR suggested it, but everything I found didn’t seem plug and play - more that I would need to rewire some things. This is why I went with my 300W inverter instead this morning.
But I didn’t think to watch the YouTube videos - which I will do now. Perhaps using a DC to DC wouldn’t be as involved as I fear.
So, thank you for your suggestion!
This forum is so great.
@lx200inAR,
Capital idea! This shows how little I understand electricity. I don’t understand how a device, an inverter in this case, can somehow “create” more energy!
But nevertheless, I don’t doubt you.
I actually have a 300W inverter.
Problem is, as soon as I plugged my Ecoflow into the inverter this morning, it blew the 15A fuse between the Aux battery and the 12v plug I had installed in my cargo area.
Thoughts on what I can do differently?
Edit: in looking at the Ecoflow app, I see I can actually restrict the wattage input on the AC side. I can pick 200W or 300w and then it’s a slider up to 1200W
@SF1911A1
To be fair, that 70F testing environ was my living room. I too am in Texas and it’s still grossly hot here.
But I don’t plan on using this fridge much here in Houston. Mostly it’s for camping and I think the idea of camping in this heat is for crazy people.
I’m actually heading up to San Rafael Swell in Utah where it should be considerably cooler. I just don’t want to have to rely on colder ambient temps to prolong my battery life.
@UPR LC
Yes, the ecoflow Dleta 2 is limited to 500W through solar, but am I reading it wrong that it actually allows up to 1100W DC if it’s not solar?
EcoFlow DELTA 2 Portable Power Station - DELTA 2 - EcoFlow
EcoFlow DELTA 2 equips modern families with backup power for any emergency. Incredibly fast charging: 0%-80% in 50 min. Be prepared, always.
us.ecoflow.com
Though since there is only one DC input, I’m not sure how it would differentiate.
And thanks for the suggestion of the YouTube videos. I actually searched for a DC to DC charger last night after @lx200inAR suggested it, but everything I found didn’t seem plug and play - more that I would need to rewire some things. This is why I went with my 300W inverter instead this morning.
But I didn’t think to watch the YouTube videos - which I will do now. Perhaps using a DC to DC wouldn’t be as involved as I fear.
So, thank you for your suggestion!
- Thread starter
- #148
Argh… even when I limit the wattage the ecoflow is sucking in to 300W, it still blows the 15A fuse.
I see now that 300W at 12V is 25A. So it makes sense that I blew the fuse.
If it limit the ecoflow to 200W, it will be about 17amps.
I could put a 20A fuse in.
It would be in the Bluesea fuse box located in my cargo area between the Aux battery and the 12V female plug.
(Edit: it’s 4gauge wire running back to the bluesea fuse box)
How bad of an idea is this?
I see now that 300W at 12V is 25A. So it makes sense that I blew the fuse.
If it limit the ecoflow to 200W, it will be about 17amps.
I could put a 20A fuse in.
It would be in the Bluesea fuse box located in my cargo area between the Aux battery and the 12V female plug.
(Edit: it’s 4gauge wire running back to the bluesea fuse box)
How bad of an idea is this?
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As usual, thank all of you for this input!
This forum is so great.
@lx200inAR,
Capital idea! This shows how little I understand electricity. I don’t understand how a device, an inverter in this case, can somehow “create” more energy!
But nevertheless, I don’t doubt you.
I actually have a 300W inverter.
Problem is, as soon as I plugged my Ecoflow into the inverter this morning, it blew the 15A fuse between the Aux battery and the 12v plug I had installed in my cargo area.
Thoughts on what I can do differently?
Edit: in looking at the Ecoflow app, I see I can actually restrict the wattage input on the AC side. I can pick 200W or 300w and then it’s a slider up to 1200W
@SF1911A1
To be fair, that 70F testing environ was my living room. I too am in Texas and it’s still grossly hot here.
But I don’t plan on using this fridge much here in Houston. Mostly it’s for camping and I think the idea of camping in this heat is for crazy people.
I’m actually heading up to San Rafael Swell in Utah where it should be considerably cooler. I just don’t want to have to rely on colder ambient temps to prolong my battery life.
@UPR LC
Yes, the ecoflow Dleta 2 is limited to 500W through solar, but am I reading it wrong that it actually allows up to 1100W DC if it’s not solar?
EcoFlow DELTA 2 Portable Power Station - DELTA 2 - EcoFlow
EcoFlow DELTA 2 equips modern families with backup power for any emergency. Incredibly fast charging: 0%-80% in 50 min. Be prepared, always.
Though since there is only one DC input, I’m not sure how it would differentiate.
And thanks for the suggestion of the YouTube videos. I actually searched for a DC to DC charger last night after @lx200inAR suggested it, but everything I found didn’t seem plug and play - more that I would need to rewire some things. This is why I went with my 300W inverter instead this morning.
But I didn’t think to watch the YouTube videos - which I will do now. Perhaps using a DC to DC wouldn’t be as involved as I fear.
So, thank you for your suggestion!
Note; I've oversimplified some of the math below, but with every conversion from DC to DC or DC to AC, there are inherent losses in efficiency. The math assumes no losses which isn't reality. There is usually not more than 10% loss in any of these conversions.
Looks like you found the way to limit the AC input. There are a lot of moving parts in all this. Right now with your inverter you are bumping up on the limit of your fused cigarette lighter plug in the cabin. As those are usually never fused higher than 15a (15a @ 12v = 180w) so should really never be run higher than 180w for any amount of time. If your inverter truly is 300w, then you need a different 12v circuit to power it to realize the full power of the inverter. You would need this larger circuit whether you use an inverter or a DC to DC charger. Because as you mentioned, you can't make more power out nothing. So if you get a DC to DC to convert 12v to 36v or 48v, then the amp draw on the 12v side of the circuit will be 3 to 4 times (depending on 36v or 48v) higher.
DC to DC Ex Battery -> 24a @ 12v -> DC to DC -> 8a @ 36v to present to the Ecoflow DC MPPT (solar) input.
DC to AC Ex Battery -> 24a @12v -> Inverter -> 2.5a @ 110v AC
Primarily the DC input on the EcoFlow is your limiting factor, i personally wouldn't chase down maximizing the DC input on an EcoFlow since they were primarily designed for 110v AC for charging. The EcoFlow can take 1200w AC. You need an inverter with a larger circuit to get to the 1200w or somewhere in between. Your battery/alternator has the ability to output 100s of Amps at 12v (100A @ 12v = 1200w). I don't know how great it would be for your alternator to let the EcoFlow charge at full load very often, but since you can limit he input, something like 600-700w would probably work great. This would mean about 1-1.5hr charge time to 80% capacity from dead.
Nice, you are already down the right path. This totally depends on what kind of BlueSea fuse box it is. Usually, they come with different sized outputs. I see the Safety Hub usually has a few 30a ports on it. It looks like the "smaller" circuits are usually rated up to 20a, but can't be sure without knowing the specs.
UPR LC
GOLD Star
Yah not sure how they are getting 1100W DC claim. Their user manual does not discuss 1100W DC.As usual, thank all of you for this input!
This forum is so great.
@lx200inAR,
Capital idea! This shows how little I understand electricity. I don’t understand how a device, an inverter in this case, can somehow “create” more energy!
But nevertheless, I don’t doubt you.
I actually have a 300W inverter.
Problem is, as soon as I plugged my Ecoflow into the inverter this morning, it blew the 15A fuse between the Aux battery and the 12v plug I had installed in my cargo area.
Thoughts on what I can do differently?
Edit: in looking at the Ecoflow app, I see I can actually restrict the wattage input on the AC side. I can pick 200W or 300w and then it’s a slider up to 1200W
@SF1911A1
To be fair, that 70F testing environ was my living room. I too am in Texas and it’s still grossly hot here.
But I don’t plan on using this fridge much here in Houston. Mostly it’s for camping and I think the idea of camping in this heat is for crazy people.
I’m actually heading up to San Rafael Swell in Utah where it should be considerably cooler. I just don’t want to have to rely on colder ambient temps to prolong my battery life.
@UPR LC
Yes, the ecoflow Dleta 2 is limited to 500W through solar, but am I reading it wrong that it actually allows up to 1100W DC if it’s not solar?
EcoFlow DELTA 2 Portable Power Station - DELTA 2 - EcoFlow
EcoFlow DELTA 2 equips modern families with backup power for any emergency. Incredibly fast charging: 0%-80% in 50 min. Be prepared, always.
Though since there is only one DC input, I’m not sure how it would differentiate.
And thanks for the suggestion of the YouTube videos. I actually searched for a DC to DC charger last night after @lx200inAR suggested it, but everything I found didn’t seem plug and play - more that I would need to rewire some things. This is why I went with my 300W inverter instead this morning.
But I didn’t think to watch the YouTube videos - which I will do now. Perhaps using a DC to DC wouldn’t be as involved as I fear.
So, thank you for your suggestion!
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
This is one of the great land mines with using these power stations IMHO: the DC charging rate. The short answer is make your power station think it's charging from a PV array. To do so, emulate the voltage it's solar controller wants. Do not worry that it isn't a real solar panel as a solar controller only knows voltage and current.
I use a Goal Zero Yeti 1500X. Per my earlier post I've successfully used a Victron DC-DC charger (Smart Orion 12|24/15) in power supply mode to charge my power station. The power input port I use is the same one Goal Zero uses for ALL of its charging and that's the solar port. With the Victron I can get a solid 360-380 watts.The Victron current limits based on how hot it gets so I added a blower to keep it cool. Goal Zero also makes a 600W car charger which connects via a proprietary connection on the power station which wasn't available when I bought the power station.
Alternatively you could run a large inverter and charge your power station via its AC input. Inefficient, but fast.
The Dometic runs on 12 or 24V. So if you wanted to run your fridge off your 2nd battery you could do so directly or your could supply constant regulated power connect the SAME Victron 12|24/15 to it. We do this when we deplete our Goal Zero 1500X and check into a hotel where we charge it via the hotel's AC. This approach has saved us a few times already.
EDIT: the Victron I mentioned at full output draws 40A as per direct measurement. So, add that to your power budget for your alternator.
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- Thread starter
- #153
Thanks to the suggestion of YouTube videos, I found this:
Very informative and speaks directly to my situation.
Unfortunately the tinkerer’s suggestion is a bit more involved than I have time for before this trip. But I think I may attempt it in the future.
As a stop-gap, I’m thinking of going with a 500W inverter (pure sine) that comes with alligator clips.
The Blue Sea fuse box in my cargo area is rated for 100amps.
So I would put a 25amp fuse into it and set the ecoflow to 200W max AC charging when using the 12v cigarette outlet in my cargo area.
In the evenings I could open the hood and charge the ecoflow at 500W connected directly to the battery.
Does anybody see a problem with this setup?
Will I burn down my vehicle in the middle of nowhere?
I’m most leery of using the higher amp fuse. The wire running back to the blue fuse is 4ga, so it should be plenty but electricity just scares me.
Very informative and speaks directly to my situation.
Unfortunately the tinkerer’s suggestion is a bit more involved than I have time for before this trip. But I think I may attempt it in the future.
As a stop-gap, I’m thinking of going with a 500W inverter (pure sine) that comes with alligator clips.
The Blue Sea fuse box in my cargo area is rated for 100amps.
So I would put a 25amp fuse into it and set the ecoflow to 200W max AC charging when using the 12v cigarette outlet in my cargo area.
In the evenings I could open the hood and charge the ecoflow at 500W connected directly to the battery.
Does anybody see a problem with this setup?
Will I burn down my vehicle in the middle of nowhere?
I’m most leery of using the higher amp fuse. The wire running back to the blue fuse is 4ga, so it should be plenty but electricity just scares me.
- Thread starter
- #154
Good thinking with the suggestion of running the fridge off of my installed aux battery when/if I take the Ecoflow into a hotel to charge it quickly. I will certainly do that.
Also, the Victron you list is interesting. If you watch Tikerer’s video that I just posted on this thread I think that he says not to bother with a “smart” inverter like that. But I wonder if he’s being short sighted in this. What if he wants to run something that is not as smart as the ecoflow?
Sounds good. If your BlueSea panel is something like this, then those are raTed for 30amps. If you have 4ga wire running to the panel, I wouldn’t be too worried.
- Thread starter
- #156
You are right, sir!
I believe I have this fuse box.
ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems
Compact ATO® / ATC® fuse block consolidates branch circuits and eliminates the tangle of in-line fuses for electronics and other appliances.
www.bluesea.com
Which is 30A per fuse.
That 100A I mentioned above is for the whole block. My mistake. (And why I vet my ideas on this forum!)
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
Kudos to Tinkerer for using Victron and mentioning the Orion 12|24/15 at 6:40. However Tinkerer misses the fact that the Victron Smart Orion 12|24/15 can run in 2 modes: Charger or power supply. The setting is made via the app. The 12|24/15 also provides an isolated ground which I prefer due to not wanting to ever chase ground loop issues. The unit he's using requires an on off sensor. With the 12|24/15 you set cutoff and restart voltages via the app. I use 12.5V to cutoff and 13.2V to restart. My Goal Zero stops charging within seconds of stopping the engine and restarts immediately after starting. It's all done using voltage and the app. There is no need to wire in a circuit to detect accessory power. The 12|24/15 is also smaller. It should work the same way with your unit.
If you get a 500W inverter or any inverter less that it's 1200W AC charging power I fear your EcoFlow will cause it to trip as it wants 1200W. Also, what kind of load will an large inverter put on your alternator? For an estimate you can do the math:2000W @ 12V=167A. However it's worse than that due to losses. A Xantrex FREEDOM X 2000 draws 192A full load. Say goodbye to your alternator.
REF:
FREEDOM X - https://xantrex.com/products/inverters/freedomx/
On a tangential front, I really hate what Ecoflow is doing with their weird charging connectors. Zamp does it too with their proprietary connectors. They're both on my S**T list.
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- Thread starter
- #158
@FrazzledHunter
When you say I will trip the inverter, are you considering that I can limit the charging wattage on the ecoflow? I can set it between 200w to 1200w.
Though I hate that having multiple charging methods and wattages relies on me to set the ecoflow to the correct wattage every time. The less human interaction the better, I say. We are too fallible.
Perhaps this is a reason to buy only a 600W or so inverter. It won’t blow your alternator if you mess up?
And agreed about the weird charging connectors. Just when Apple is finally moving in the correct direction….
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I did miss that you could limit charging, my bad! Great feature. Yeah then of course you could use a lesser inverter. I can't think of why not.
But I 'd consider the victron to charge your Ecoflow and to provide regulated power to your Dometic from your 2nd battery.
Headed to Overland East so might not be able to reply often.
Good luck I 'd love to hear how you make out with this.
Why dose it have to be so complicated 
I have been using a ARB 50 QT for the last 6 years, I run it off a dedicated ARB power port wired 30 Amp fuse in my Blue seas fuse panel with the proper size wire.
I run a single group 31 Odyssey Battery.
I'm usually out 3-4 days I have sat in camp running the fridge for up to 2.5 days and the rig has always started !!
I like the KISS plan Keep is simple stupid.
The Battery is now 5 years old now and I was just out with the fridge for 4 day two week ago !!
And no I did not run the numbers, I just know it works !!
I have been using a ARB 50 QT for the last 6 years, I run it off a dedicated ARB power port wired 30 Amp fuse in my Blue seas fuse panel with the proper size wire.
I run a single group 31 Odyssey Battery.
I'm usually out 3-4 days I have sat in camp running the fridge for up to 2.5 days and the rig has always started !!
I like the KISS plan Keep is simple stupid.
The Battery is now 5 years old now and I was just out with the fridge for 4 day two week ago !!
And no I did not run the numbers, I just know it works !!
