Opinions on fridges (2 Viewers)

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I’m trying to decide on which size fridge to get.
Because of all the aforementioned love of a freezer when overlanding, I want to get a dual zone fridge - which seems to relegate me to the bigger ones. Which, in turn, could make me crowd it a bit back there with my other gear.

Question for you guys:
How much space do you give around your fridges? I mean, are there rules of thumb on how many inches on each side you need to keep so as to allow for ventilation?

(Alternatively, I am also contemplating a smaller fridge and putting the entire thing in freezer mode and then carrying a small yeti cooler (already owned) for the non-frozen perishables. But this seems like it would take up even more space so I haven’t run the number for this set-up.)

Edit: I just went on-line and found the dometic manual for their 12v fridges. It’s odd that it doesn’t address the issue of ventilation at all.
2 inches
>>>EDIT: I give it 2 inches ONLY where the vents for the cooling fan is which where the power cords are. Haven't had any problems.<<<
You're right - the online manual doesn't address it. Weird.
Here are two pics of the manual I got with my Dometic CFX3 77L DZ:
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What Victron 30 amp charger unit are you using exactly? Is it the Blue Smart IP22 ?
Yup, that's the one.
Plugs right in to the factory inverter. Connects to the Victron app for info. Good unit.

The shunt is the Victron 500 amp Smart-Shunt. This gives info on the energy going in and leaving. It guesstimates remaining time on battery based on load.

My 100ah Renogy gel deep cycle battery will last 3 days no charge running the 75 fridge.

Only issue is iff you don't drive enough, you're not charging enough.
My solution is to throw 2 Renogy 100 watt flexible solar panels on top of my rooftop tent, and install a charge controller.

Always need something else. My LX is high time preference.

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My fridge was my first “Mod” and I have charged it in every possible configuration

  • Run of starter battery and rely on voltage cutoff. Woke up in the morning to warm fridge
  • Run off starter battery but trickle charger with solar and PWM controller. Worked great for 3 months out of the year here in PNW
  • Run off a solar generator - almost perfect except slow to recharge and bulky form factor
Now I rely on a more Complicated house battery setup. Like most topics on mud, there are multiple right answers. The fuss about simplicity is relative to what that means to you

  • Simple to deploy for a trip and take out when you are done
  • Simple as in you never have to think about it
My more complicated setup allows me to never think about the fridge. It runs 24x7 without complaint.

Simplicity 👌🏻🤙🏼🧘
 
2 inches
>>>EDIT: I give it 2 inches ONLY where the vents for the cooling fan is which where the power cords are. Haven't had any problems.<<<
You're right - the online manual doesn't address it. Weird.
Here are two pics of the manual I got with my Dometic CFX3 77L DZ:
Wait… what is that picture of the coffee maker inside of the fridge supposed to tell me?

Am I not allowed to brew coffee inside of my fridge!?!? Deal killer. Why else would I want a fridge?

Next they will tell me not to light my solo stove inside the fridge.
 
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Wait… what is that picture of the coffee maker inside of the fridge supposed to tell me?

Am I not allowed to brew coffee inside of my fridge!?!? Deal killer. Why welder would I want a fridge?

Next they will tell me not to light my solo stove inside the fridge.
Ignore it. I've filled my fridge with firewood and used it for the campfire. These fridges are really well made.:rofl:
 
Every time I think I want a fridge I just add up the costs of a second battery, solar, a DC-DC controller and wiring and decide that it buys a s***ton of ice and ziploc bags. Then at some point during a trip I inevitably forget/neglect to get ice, drink luke warm beer for an evening, and start thinking about how nice a fridge would be.

I'll be keeping an eye on that fridge/battery combo, and hadn't thought of trying to justify the fridge as a 'run errands and keep stuff cold around town' device. The ones that can go below freezing would allow the CFO to buy ice cream with impunity.

I used to think that, but I got tired of soggy food floating in ice water, meat juice in it…and anything I pull out dripping all over. Also tired of trying to organize soace that doesn’t end up “invaded” by ice in various stages of solid & liquid.

My National Luna fridge stays in my 200 24/7/365. When at Costco and don’t want to dash home before stuff thaws…I throw it in the freezer. Hot day? Always cold stuff handy. No planning of ice runs, ice maintenance, and no need to even take it in the house if not convenient.
 
I’d like to get a fridge soon, here’s my rough plan for a power system. Any thoughts?


View attachment 3334746

To @tbisaacs point, you'll need a DC-DC charger if you want onboard charging capability. Something like this Victron 18A unit may be all you need depending on fridge. I can run mine non-stop just driving my car for a short commute a few times a week.

As a hack, the Noco 5A unit can possibly be plugged into the OEM 120V outlet for a trickle charge. Probably not enough to get you ahead, but it'll maintain for a longer weekend.

Amazon product ASIN B0851TPKV7
 
As a hack, the Noco 5A unit can possibly be plugged into the OEM 120V outlet for a trickle charge. Probably not enough to get you ahead, but it'll maintain for a longer weekend.

That was the idea. Don’t know how slowly it charges, but most of my trips are either to go wheeling or involve some driving every day. They also tend to be long weekends, not long trips.
 
That was the idea. Don’t know how slowly it charges, but most of my trips are either to go wheeling or involve some driving every day. They also tend to be long weekends, not long trips.

5a will be way to slow IMO
 
Even over an 8-ish hour wheeling day?

It will work just fine for road and wheeling type trips for a modest fridge.

I use to use my Goal Zero 1000 with just a basic 5A charger...about equivalent. It let me stay with consumption for my 44qt single zone Iceco if I'm not staying stationary at camp.

Figure 5A/hr * 8hrs = 40Ah charging. That's generally about right to cover a days consumption. Another cross check is most people are reporting 3 days of power for a 100Ah battery. Checks out. Solar can keep you going on the stationary days like you're thinking.
 
Even over an 8-ish hour wheeling day?

It will work just fine for road and wheeling type trips for a modest fridge.

I use to use my Goal Zero 1000 with just a basic 5A charger...about equivalent. It let me stay with consumption for my 44qt single zone Iceco if I'm not staying stationary at camp.

Figure 5A/hr * 8hrs = 40Ah charging. That's generally about right to cover a days consumption. Another cross check is most people are reporting 3 days of power for a 100Ah battery. Checks out. Solar can keep you going on the stationary days like you're thinking.

Yea for sure math check out but will totally depend on conditions. For example I was in Moab in July 2 summers ago—air temp was 110+ and fridge compressor ran constantly. At the time I was running a goal zero with the AC brick in the inverter and the fridge actually out ran it over the course of the day.

Having either big capacity or fast charging will work. But having both means you don’t worry about it ever. Just wheel and have fun.
 
Yea for sure math check out but will totally depend on conditions. For example I was in Moab in July 2 summers ago—air temp was 110+ and fridge compressor ran constantly. At the time I was running a goal zero with the AC brick in the inverter and the fridge actually out ran it over the course of the day.

Having either big capacity or fast charging will work. But having both means you don’t worry about it ever. Just wheel and have fun.

Totally agree. I'm in the southwest and do experience days like this. It's what drove me to fridges in the first place as even a quality cooler was not cutting it.

I have buddies with giant dualzone Dometics and the consumption can get scary on days like this. Where night time still has the compressor running to stay cool. I think I've shared my GZ1000 battery will run its cooling fan well into the evening.

A frugal and well insulated single zone is my preference. With several options for power.
 
Decent chance I’ll end up with some solar charging, but 3-ish days without charging or much driving sounds adequate to me. Worst case, I idle the vehicle to charge for a while.
 
Even over an 8-ish hour wheeling day?
It's a trickle charger - great for charging a battery overnight.
Your fridge will likely draw that much resulting in a net zero charge.
For example, my Dometic CFX3 75L DZ takes on average 50 Watt-Hr/Hr.
The Goal Zero is 1500 Watt-Hr max.
Well, I don't let the Yeti go below 10% or 20% so let's say 1350 or 1200 Watt-Hr.
Do the math to get the time; my real world experience reflects these numbers.

The problem with that OEM inverter is that is has little power.
I frankly don't know what it's really good for. We've charged a tablet and some rechargeable lighting. I'll run a dashcam with it.
I digress...

Per my posted block diagram I use a Victron 12|24/15 to charge a Goal Zero Yeti 1500X.
What I haven't seen posted are the real world power usages.
Here's some power values taken with a Powerwerx power meter*.

Alternator->Victron: 13.21V, 529.4W, 40.08A
Victron->Yeti 1500X: 16.53V, 384.3W, 23.25A

These values were the exact values read off the meter but not taken at the same instant as I only had one power meter.
So don't make any conclusions about the Victron's efficiency - the readings were made as close together in time as I could.
At this rate my 1500 Watt-Hr Yeti takes about 4 hours to fully charge from 20% full.

These batteries take a LOT of power to <edit: quickly> charge.

*Powerwerx power meter:
Powerwerx Watt Meter Plus, DC Inline Power Analyzer, 75A Continuous, 8 Gauge, SB50 Powerpole Connectors - https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-plus-power-analyzer-8-gauge-sb50
 
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