Opinion shopping re: front spring interchange

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Pic 1. Axle finding it's way home again. EEK, look at that shackle angle at free hanging droop. Yep, it got even worse once the axle dropped onto it.
The axle stayed near the stock WB by leaving the hangers as far forward as possible ( which I'd prefer they not be) and drilling the hole in the perch 1.25" more rearward. The DIY u-bolt flip has it's center hole offset 1.25" as well.

Yes, I had to cut out a section of that friggin stupid outboarded exhaust to drill the frame for the sleeve. It will go away fully at a later project.

Pic 2 is the current shackle angle with everything buttoned up. Gonna need to go longer, ya think?
Question here: With the axle being able to droop so far (see previous pics above) I see inversion being a big given, do you agree? Could I adapt some Cruiser anti inversion shackles to my 3" wide needs?

It still needs measured for shocks, and to make some DIY quick-disco sway bar mounts for the sway to go back in.
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The current ride height measured at the uncut wheel wells is 35.75". That's with a 1" DIY body lift, 31" Big-O XT's at 35 psi. The old springs measured about 2.25" shorter. This will obviously change when I fit longer shackles. I'll need to measure caster as well. Anyone know how to do that on a fully dressed and installed axle? I don't see any exposed flat machined surfaces on the knuckles.
The front drive shaft looks like it will work as is, too. I really expected to need a longer one, but at full droop, I don't see splines. The pinion angle looks nearly stock, too. We'll see what happens with the longer shackles.

I'll shoot some pics of the u-bolt flip I made later.
 
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Man, I really need to invest in a welder.
 
There is probably a technique for doing it on paper, but Jack up your front bumper and see if the front driveshaft slides apart before the front tires come off the ground. Doing this in the safety of your garage will prevent you from being stranded on a bumpy road in a river bottom with a broken T-case.
 
There is probably a technique for doing it on paper, but Jack up your front bumper and see if the front driveshaft slides apart before the front tires come off the ground. Doing this in the safety of your garage will prevent you from being stranded on a bumpy road in a river bottom with a broken T-case.

Thanks for the advice, Dan. The drive shaft has already passed the droop test. I forgot to add that I'll need to see how the stock bump stops fit now, and if they'll need modifying.
 
Here's this morning's obligatory driveway flex shots.
I stopped when I just touched the stock bump stop. I'm looking for feedback as to the level of negative arch pictured.
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Here's the NAPA part # for the longer (22") frame to axle brake hose, along with closer pics of the u-bolt flip:
Pic 3 shows that I was wrong about not seeing splines on the front drive shaft. Feedback here is welcome, too.
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Even more feedback is needed here: This better illustrates the inversion tendency I was referring to. If it's not obvious, the axle is at full droop with both tires off the ground. Plus, there's no shocks or sway bar installed.
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your worrieing too much lol.
neg spring arch looks normal under the circumstances. dont see anything i couldnt live with. id have made the spring plate out of 3/8ths though, or gusseted horizontally between the bolts. they (nuts) may suck themselves through over time. x2 for longer shackles. i'd flip the u bolts back the other way to keep them from getting destroyed on rocks and hanging you up. my .01c
 
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the arc travel of the shackle wont transmit much in the way of vertical axis change...maybe a 1/4 to 1/2" rise that will most likely get absorbed by the spring. you will never notice it.
 
Yep, the u-bolt flip plates are under built. They'll need revised. Sooner than later too, as they hold the whole friggin truck up, hehe.

OLB, thanks for the kudos.
 
All that work and you've still got leafs. ;)
Yeah, yeah, yeah. :flipoff2:
I can only go so far with each project, with this being needed for DD duty.
 
Yep, the u-bolt flip plates are under built. They'll need revised. Sooner than later too, as they hold the whole friggin truck up, hehe.

OLB, thanks for the kudos.

I agree , that style has been done over and over, none have held up. Torque the ubolts to 100 ft/lbs and it will self destruct. I believe Ross at Advanced Handling sold those first, before he closed up. They would constantly flex or tear and the u-bolts wouldn't stay tight.
It looks like you have the tool to build a flip kit. If you are going to go to the trouble do something close to the 4plus design and quit dragging the threads on the rocks
 
Yeah, wizard's flip-kits are tits :D
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Thanks for the advice, Dave. I appreciate you taking the time. It's clear to me that you feel it's not even worth rebuilding these with thicker stock.
I didn't know I copied such a troubled design. Such are the trials of a garage hack with a tight wallet, hehe.

Edit: Anyone else care to weigh in on the drive shaft, measuring caster DIY, shackle angles, etc questions above?
 
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It is hard to tell in the pics but it looks as if your U-bolts don't go over the axle. I think this may be a major safety issue. Just something to think about.


**** I know Toyota did not do that with the stock set up but Toyota u-bolts are also as hard as turtle dicks. The aftermarket U-bolts are much (MUCH) softer.****

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
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It is hard to tell in the pics but it looks as if your U-bolts don't go over the axle. I think this may be a major safety issue. Just something to think about.


**** I know Toyota did not do that with the stock set up but Toyota u-bolts are also as hard as turtle dicks. The aftermarket U-bolts are much (MUCH) softer.****


he has a real point i personally overlooked.
 
^^^Yeah, points taken fellas. I've been referring to this u-bolt flip kit but that's not even accurate as I installed it. I need to get my butt back into the garage, I know.
 

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