Opinion shopping re: front spring interchange

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Damn damn damn. No pics of it, but I had a bit of a set back Thursday.
I took off to a nearby empty area to get some real-world flex to measure for shocks. I obviously travelled up the dirt mound further than ever before, as I snapped all the leaves on the driver's rear pack. I drove the 1/4 mile back home firmly on the bump stop, with the broken leaves pointing staight up at the frame rail. Yeah.
I don't think I'll be able to pull off the extra garage time required for a Sanford and Son fix on this go-round. I think my wife would shoot me.
 
Damn! Sorry to hear that:frown: Have any idea what exactly lead to their demise? Axle wrap? Did the u-bolts slip?
Butt

Just so it's clear, it was the yet untouched stock rear spring pack.

I figure the 12-14 yrs of MI winters they accumulated is what did them in. The same as the fronts that I just replaced. I've noticed a random broken leaf or two for a while now. They just all let go at once.
It would be fine if I had fully finished the fronts and the holidays had already passed. It's just piss-poor timing, really.
Thanks for the commiseration, though.
 
Update on the rear spring R&R follows.
As noted above, the rears crapped the bed last month. It looked like I was going to call Kurt and go the easy route this go round. My wife was not looking forward to being a single mom for another week long garage session.
I was surprised when the day I was to place the order that she gave to go ahead for another junkyard fix.

I had welded the snot outta the broken leafs, added some scab plates (they broke nearest the perch in the most flat section) and they held somehow until I pulled them least week. I do not recommend driving on-road with such ghetto fixes, just so we're clear. I stuck to residential streets and to-from work type driving.

I dove in last week, using stock rear springs from a 94 and 96 f-150. They are 57" long: 32" one side and 25" on the shorter arch, by my measure. 4 leaves plus the OL spring. Note that the OL spring looks like a huge rock-catcher, but as you can see in later pics, it ends up following the main arch quite nicely.
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Rear spring comparison.webp
 
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Yes the exhaust looks like crap, it's on the short list. I cut it right after the muff, obviously.
The front hangers are Ruff Stuff, while the rear hangers are stock and in the stock location. I moved the axle back an inch to keep the same wheelbase, but upon buttoning it up, it's too far back. It really should be 1" forward, which is 2" forward from where it sits in the pics.
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Rear spring mockup 2.webp
 
The shackle angle is acceptable, the amt of lift is unclear at this point, since the old springs were crapped out I didn't bother with a before number. Now, it sits 21" from hub center to uncut fenderwell, and 35 3/4" to the ground on 31" BigFoot XT's. I ran out of lift with my garage jack in these pics, so one day I'll drag out the cherry picker. I'm pretty sure the shocks will need replaced all around.
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The driveshaft is showing a lot of splines, moving the 2" forward will help, but that still may not be enough. I think the move will improve the pinion angle, too. By my eye, it's a few degrees out in relation to the TC output flange.
In summary, there's obviously still a good amt of fine tuning to do on both front and rear. Since my wife drives this truck, that will likely include re-installing the rear sway using extended quick-disco ends. Also, bracing that front spring hanger is vital, there's almost 2" hanging outboard of the frame creating lots of leverage on the welds.
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Can anyone give me a reasonably accurate rear fender to hub center measurement for stock to better eval how much lift I have?
 
pretty good dude. flexes way better. get the long DT prerunner8000. theyre cheap. they may limit up travel but that'll keep the future tires out of the rub. wrap it up and order yourself a couple aussie lockers....you have like 14 kids...uncle sam should be kind to you id imagine...
 
No normal pics yet, Butt. I really rushed in the end to get it back on the road before work. These latest pics above were just an afterthought. I'll try to get some more up over the weekend.

It has a noticable stinkbug stance, but the 2" longer front shackles still to go on should get it pretty close. That, and eventually it'll have an actual rear bumper, too.
DW, keep laughing about my brood, you're quick on the way to catching up sucker!
 
Weekend has passed, but here's those pics I promised Butt. Edit: After just posting these, I realize this isn't very flat or level after all.:rolleyes: What a maroon!
This does however, clearly illustrate my mistake in setting wheelbase an inch back instead of forward. It also makes those mighty 31's look even mightier, right??:princess:
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Those Ford springs look like nice springs, although I *think* you are running them backwards?? Not sure though. Props though, for thinking a bit outside the box. Everyone else uses Chevy springs. I think you might be on to something because the Ford springs I think are wider than Chevy.

edit: What ford application? Is it 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton?
 
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Those Ford springs look like nice springs, although I *think* you are running them backwards?? Not sure though. Props though, for thinking a bit outside the box. Everyone else uses Chevy springs. I think you might be on to something because the Ford springs I think are wider than Chevy.

edit: What ford application? Is it 1/2 tonor 3/4 ton?

Why would the spring width matter? Isn't the additional length of the 63" springs more desirable?
 
Why would the spring width matter? Isn't the additional length of the 63" springs more desirable?

I'm not sure. Ford claims that the wider spring is more resistant to side loads. Plus it's closer to Land Cruiser spring pad width.

I have a set of Chevy 63s-3/4 ton (they are actually 64 measured along the spring) that will be going in the back of my 60 along with a 14bolt. The Chevy springs are symmetrical and I've seen them work really well in CaliCruiser's 60.
 
I'm not sure. Ford claims that the wider spring is more resistant to side loads. Plus it's closer to Land Cruiser spring pad width.

I have a set of Chevy 63s-3/4 ton (they are actually 64 measured along the spring) that will be going in the back of my 60 along with a 14bolt. The Chevy springs are symmetrical and I've seen them work really well in CaliCruiser's 60.

I didn't realize the chevy springs were narrower than cruiser springs. When I swap frames out I want to move to 63" springs as well.
 
I'm not sure. Ford claims that the wider spring is more resistant to side loads. Plus it's closer to Land Cruiser spring pad width.
They would be laterally stiffer if they are wider, simple physics. Not sure how much is enough.
I have a set of Chevy 63s-3/4 ton (they are actually 64 measured along the spring) that will be going in the back of my 60 along with a 14bolt. The Chevy springs are symmetrical and I've seen them work really well in CaliCruiser's 60.
I'm running the longest 3 leaves from a 3/4t pack under the rear of my '84 Xcab. Springs are durned near as long as the bed!!! One of the top 5 mods that I've made to that truck.
 
The springs are from both a 94 and 96 f150. Run-o-the-mill 2 1/2" width, just like the Chevies I put up front. I picked the Ferds due to being able to reuse the stock rear hanger in the stock location and still keep the wheelbase the same (my yet rectified screwup non-withstanding of course). Plus the ever so slightly improved departure created by the shorter rear arch when compared to 63" Chevies. Granted, there's plenty of folks in the minitruck world who are still happy with their 63" Chevies. It was as noted, a chance at something different nearly as much as anything else.

Thanks for the props. :beer:
Lots of views with few replies makes a fella think he brings the meh.:meh:
 

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