Not a new owner. I bought a used MULE pro fxt about 18 months ago. BLUF: I like and recommend the Kawasaki MULE. Tough little machine. Governed top end of 45mph, you have to stop to engage 4wd/rear diff lock. Longer post to follow:
Prior owner beat it like a rented....mule. I checked it over as best I could prior to sale without tools (oil looked clean, no odd sounds when starting from cold, etc). Seller seemed like a solid guy, but a little simple. Looks like it was an act all along (think "simple southern country boy" type act). Only after I got home did I start uncovering the "painted rust" - mud in coolant overflow bottle, etc.
I baselined all fluids with new amsoil UTV fluids. Old stuff didn't look bad thankfully. I used Amsoil low tox coolant after flushing coolant system, washing out mud from overflow bottle. Coolant coming out looked nice and green without particulate (as far as I could see). I got new tires for it and knocked down some of the old hard hits on the frame that were showing some surface rust and topped off with Rustoleum stop rust spray paint. I swapped out old stripped skid Philips head screws to some hex head bolts and anti-seize to make future removal easy and not an ordeal.
I replaced the radiator cap as I usually do that as PM around the 10 yr mark regardless of vehicle. I replaced the spark plugs and bought a new Gates kevlar drive belt thinking I'd change the original one given it's almost 10. I then read about some guys getting a LOT of use from their OEM belt. That hasn't happened yet. I am going to swap out coolant again with the Amsoil low tox stuff given the trash I saw in the overflow bottle and when that happens I'll change the thermostat too.
I'd recomend OEM parts when possible (save for drive belts per the Kawi-rider forum experience). I have a local-ish dealer I have used once and they were ok for parts. I usually get my stuff from country cat in MN. It's pretty easy to work on. I modified the back seat setup (read: drilled a big hole and put in an access door) to make oil filter access easier than removing all sorts of sh*t to get my ham-hands in there.
I could've likely avoided a lot of what I did, but I want this thing to last. I have friends with Can-am's. They like to eat drive belts iirc. The gators seem nice, but are spendy when new. TBH I went to price a new mule before I bought this one and the guy quoted something close to $32k iirc for a new pro fxt. I couldn't help but laugh. I thanked him for his time and left. Immediately.
LMK if you want more info, but thought this would be a good start.
Prior owner beat it like a rented....mule. I checked it over as best I could prior to sale without tools (oil looked clean, no odd sounds when starting from cold, etc). Seller seemed like a solid guy, but a little simple. Looks like it was an act all along (think "simple southern country boy" type act). Only after I got home did I start uncovering the "painted rust" - mud in coolant overflow bottle, etc.
I baselined all fluids with new amsoil UTV fluids. Old stuff didn't look bad thankfully. I used Amsoil low tox coolant after flushing coolant system, washing out mud from overflow bottle. Coolant coming out looked nice and green without particulate (as far as I could see). I got new tires for it and knocked down some of the old hard hits on the frame that were showing some surface rust and topped off with Rustoleum stop rust spray paint. I swapped out old stripped skid Philips head screws to some hex head bolts and anti-seize to make future removal easy and not an ordeal.
I replaced the radiator cap as I usually do that as PM around the 10 yr mark regardless of vehicle. I replaced the spark plugs and bought a new Gates kevlar drive belt thinking I'd change the original one given it's almost 10. I then read about some guys getting a LOT of use from their OEM belt. That hasn't happened yet. I am going to swap out coolant again with the Amsoil low tox stuff given the trash I saw in the overflow bottle and when that happens I'll change the thermostat too.
I'd recomend OEM parts when possible (save for drive belts per the Kawi-rider forum experience). I have a local-ish dealer I have used once and they were ok for parts. I usually get my stuff from country cat in MN. It's pretty easy to work on. I modified the back seat setup (read: drilled a big hole and put in an access door) to make oil filter access easier than removing all sorts of sh*t to get my ham-hands in there.
I could've likely avoided a lot of what I did, but I want this thing to last. I have friends with Can-am's. They like to eat drive belts iirc. The gators seem nice, but are spendy when new. TBH I went to price a new mule before I bought this one and the guy quoted something close to $32k iirc for a new pro fxt. I couldn't help but laugh. I thanked him for his time and left. Immediately.
LMK if you want more info, but thought this would be a good start.
