OME lift question (1 Viewer)

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I am not ticked john at your statements. But what does ticks me is that I ask questions about your statements and you still have not answered. So I do not know if you know that you are giving information with out thinking or not knowing, thats all. Still after asking several times you choice is not to answer. I am glad your truck works for you, yes this started out as a thread about his questions about the OME 3.5 lift and L shocks. You made a choice to answer with some statement that just were not true (in my opinion). You played a song and dance around the issues you raised that I asked you about. that what ticks me off. later robbie
 
Robbie: Gotcha. No, I have not driven a high-lifted 80. I have wheeled with a killer 80 that used to be owned by Beli here is AZ. What an amazing vehicle. Luv it. Other's in my AZ Club HIGHLY recommended I shy away from taller than 3.5 - 4-inch lifts when I bought my 80. (I had the 100 first) They stated from their years of experience that a OME lift is all that was needed to run most anything and that taller rigs tend to get tippy on these wild AZ trails. I opted to take their advice and go from there. I did add the packers to see if they'd cause issues. They did not and I sit taller than most...about the same as a J-sprung rig. They were correct, I can run everything, and that's why to date I haven't pursued any additional suspension mods for the 80. So my point is (formost drivers) to save your money as I did. The 80 is amazing even at my level.
One thing I have done that allows me to drive certain obstacles was to cut my front and rear frames by about 4-inches and have steel bumpers fabricated. While the other 80's can't attempt the same lines I can, or on tothers hit their front and/or rear bumpers I drive on through. I should do this to the 100 also but it'll kill it's looks (though that's why I bought the 80...for those tight spots).
 
Robbie call John and you guys settle this on the phone! Just kiddin, its actually great (as a lift rookie) to hear you guys and your experiences. Some day my 80 is going to be just for wheeling (not trailered) so I want to go burley with it. That is certianly down the road right now cause its still the wifey-mobile. Its only got 48K miles on it so there is plenty of life left in it.

Christo's website has been an awesome rescource but when it comes time to do the lift I most likely will take it to him and get it done right... as Im a 2 bananna mechanic.

Bottom line is I want this rig to last awhile, I want it to drive well and handle 90% of the trails out there and when People see it they need to think "DAMN"! The totally unnecessary snorkle kit will help with that one. Anyway, thanks for your comments.

Round 2 "DING"
 
who cares - show us some pics of your bumpers

You should just show us some pics of your bumpers, and call it good.
 
Sorry. The only link I have shows my front bumper. The rear was even more creative. I'll work on a link for it.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/adventurepartners/John_Shotts/FJ80/pages/DSC00651%20(Small)_JPG.htm

Front approach turned out to be about 60 degrees, rear is about 50 degrees.
 
sounds good

thanks
 
Back to the original question. I have a 40th with 850Js on front and 863s on the rear. I have the caster correction bushings and stabilizer. With this setup, the trucks sits almost level. The vehicle has no bumpers or other heavy accesories yet, but rides great, and handles great. Right now it is my wifes soccer mom mobile and she loves it. I would not hesitate to do the same setup again.
Gary
 
I can't believe I figured out how to upload. :confused:

Any how, here's pictures of those custom bumpers. About 4-inches of the frame were cut front and rear to make these.
 
Waggoner5 said:
Back to the original question. I have a 40th with 850Js on front and 863s on the rear. I have the caster correction bushings and stabilizer. With this setup, the trucks sits almost level. The vehicle has no bumpers or other heavy accesories yet, but rides great, and handles great. Right now it is my wifes soccer mom mobile and she loves it. I would not hesitate to do the same setup again.
Gary
Click to expand...
Hi Waggoner,
I just bought Currans 850J and 863's, are you running with just the caster corrections bushings and no drop blocks or???

Thanks
John
 
Infojunky, with the J springs in front you will need to use the drop blocks on the sway bars. Christo warned me of this; I didn't believe him and now I sport a nice little dent on my (old) front drive shaft where the sway bar contacted the shaft. I sent you the drop blocks anyway, and it's only a ten-minute install so you might as well use 'em.

Shotts, I’ve read this thread in detail and I have to say I disagree with you on a number of points. I've run both the OME J Springs and Christo's springs, so I think that I speak from experience.
First, the J springs and L shocks will give you enough lift to “functionally” run 35s. However, The castor bushings won't fully correct the castor angle meaning the steering will be a bit odd and the panhards will be on the short side leaving the front and rear axle un-centered beneath the truck. I can't speak for your stripped down trail rig, but for a daily driver, the on-road handling of this set up just isn’t that great. I'll fully admit this isn't noticeable off road, but on road it's another story.
Second, J springs give you an adequate approach angle because you run a lightened load and because you've chopped the frame. For those of us who chose an 80 partially because it's got a back seat and for those of us don't want to or can’t chop the frame, it's a different ball game. The added clearance of the 6-inch springs over the 850J/863 setup I had previously is a tremendous improvement off road. Trails that used to require a detailed spot through the technical sections are now a relative after thought. Everything scrapes less-- I spend more time covering ground and less time stacking rocks. Plus my truck handles better in every day driving.
Additionally, the 6” springs are a bit stiffer than the OME springs. So in reality, after spacing the wheels out 1.25 inches, the ride seems no more tipsy than it felt with the OME springs.
Just my two cents.
:beer:
Curran
 
Curan: I'm sure you're right on. I'm sure a lift like Slee's 5 or 6 incher makes for an amazing setup. I'll say again though, for someone looking at a lesser alternative, my OME+ lift works and perfectly for under $1000. I measured the lift again 2-days ago. I have 3 15/16 inches over stock in the rear and 3 5/8 over stock in the front. 35's fit fine with lowered rear stops and I have no rubbing. I track perfectly on road even at speed limits of 75MPH, my tires have worn evenly and the rig is in alignment. What can I tell you? I not a whiz on all this camber crud, etc., but this setup works extremely well on an 80. Sure, I'd trade for the full-out Slee lift (if I didn't spend the dough on my 100) though after my experience to date I'd never pay the extra $$$z for an extra inch.
I run with several buddies who have J-springs. You're right, they go about anywhere. They also get hung up front and rear compared to me on certain lines because of my mods. The picture above requiries a 60 degree aproach. Mobody in my club could make this attempt. One guy came close (the other dude in our club who also has cut his frames..though less aggresively). The others had to move several feet over to an easier line (including the J-sprung trucks). Of course they have nice 80's with bull bars and customer rear biumbers wheras mine's a cut-down beater. Don't know what to tell you. You'd have to see me on the trail or drive it on the interstate I guess?
 
Shotts,
Did your truck make it all the way up the rock on that line in the bottom image (the one with the 60 degree approach)?

-B-
 
If that is the rock on Charolou gap(miss spelled) out side of tuscon. It can be done with 860 and 851 running 33''. That what the rock looks like. Did that almost 4 years ago following Mark Allen with a 4 inch lift running 35's. I did hit several things but I had to follow. later robbie
 
Teebag said:
At what height lift do you need the drop blocks for the sway bars?
Click to expand...

The issue with the contact between the swaybar and driveshaft has to do with L shocks and not lift. The L shocks makes the axle droop out to far and the swaybar will make contact with the driveshaft.

The issue of having your swaybars at to much of an angle and undue stress on the mounting links has to do with lift.
 
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