Infojunky, with the J springs in front you will need to use the drop blocks on the sway bars. Christo warned me of this; I didn't believe him and now I sport a nice little dent on my (old) front drive shaft where the sway bar contacted the shaft. I sent you the drop blocks anyway, and it's only a ten-minute install so you might as well use 'em.
Shotts, I’ve read this thread in detail and I have to say I disagree with you on a number of points. I've run both the OME J Springs and Christo's springs, so I think that I speak from experience.
First, the J springs and L shocks will give you enough lift to “functionally” run 35s. However, The castor bushings won't fully correct the castor angle meaning the steering will be a bit odd and the panhards will be on the short side leaving the front and rear axle un-centered beneath the truck. I can't speak for your stripped down trail rig, but for a daily driver, the on-road handling of this set up just isn’t that great. I'll fully admit this isn't noticeable off road, but on road it's another story.
Second, J springs give you an adequate approach angle because you run a lightened load and because you've chopped the frame. For those of us who chose an 80 partially because it's got a back seat and for those of us don't want to or can’t chop the frame, it's a different ball game. The added clearance of the 6-inch springs over the 850J/863 setup I had previously is a tremendous improvement off road. Trails that used to require a detailed spot through the technical sections are now a relative after thought. Everything scrapes less-- I spend more time covering ground and less time stacking rocks. Plus my truck handles better in every day driving.
Additionally, the 6” springs are a bit stiffer than the OME springs. So in reality, after spacing the wheels out 1.25 inches, the ride seems no more tipsy than it felt with the OME springs.
Just my two cents.
Curran
