OME Competition Coils and Michelin's (Michelin Guys Question)

[FJBen]

I guess our interpretation of stiff will have to vary

I have J's on the rear of my rig. It's definitely not a 5.5" lift. It's just slightly taller without the spare tire setup. My rear bumper is light and we took it off to rebuild it. It went up maybe .5" and thats a very light rear on mine. I didn't think it rode stiff at all.

I'd be interested to hear what your hub to flare measurements are right now. I'm running Slee 4"/ OMEJ rear.

 

[ginericLC]

I ran the Comp 419s in front with the Js in the rear. It sat pretty level. I ran a super light front bumper with a Warn XD9000 winch. I thought the ride was great. I ran L shocks all the way around. I used Christo's caster plates as well. Before this I ran Js in the front with a 1.5" spacer and it was about the same height as the 419s without a spacer.

 

[2everest]

I ran the Comp 419s in front with the Js in the rear. It sat pretty level. I ran a super light front bumper with a Warn XD9000 winch. I thought the ride was great. I ran L shocks all the way around. I used Christo's caster plates as well. Before this I ran Js in the front with a 1.5" spacer and it was about the same height as the 419s without a spacer.

Sounds like exactly what I am looking for. Thank you!

 

[2everest]

Michelins are bulletproof and with 15lbs of air they can run a trail and run the interstate. A nail isn't s*** to them. Rocks don't phase them, neither do they adhear to them. Cut the tread blocks, shave the sidewalls, and sipe them like hell....then you might have a good performing tire on difficult trails. Sand, dirt, mud, whatever...those tires do pretty good and you never worry about a puncture. They are heavy bastards, and unless you get them cheap as hell (less than $300 for a full set w/ decent tread) they aren't worth it IMO. If you do a WHOLE BUNCH of 'expedition' style wheeling, maybe Baja or Alaskan roads/paths...then these would be great tries.

Hahaha ... I knew they were badass, but Jesus! They are about 110 pounds each, correct? I can't wait. Honestly, I always feel that my Maxxis Bighorns are gunna pop on a sharp rock, and with my gravel driveway, I pull out spitting little rocks everywhere. It's funny to see the business man in the Mercedes cussing and thowing up his hands.

Most of the wheelin we do is either muddy trails, with deep skinny ruts or a more 'expedition" type. Gravel, sand, dirt, with a lot water, etc.

I have a guy who is selling me a Brand New set of 11.00 XL's for $700. Yeah, NEW! What do you think about that price?

 

[2everest]

I guess our interpretation of stiff will have to vary

I have J's on the rear of my rig. It's definitely not a 5.5" lift. It's just slightly taller without the spare tire setup. My rear bumper is light and we took it off to rebuild it. It went up maybe .5" and thats a very light rear on mine. I didn't think it rode stiff at all.

I'd be interested to hear what your hub to flare measurements are right now. I'm running Slee 4"/ OMEJ rear.

I actually posted it on the first post. You are taller than this, with an aftermarket bumper?

 

[2everest]

New Measurements! Hub to Lip of fender

LF 24.50" RF 24.50"

LR 25.75" RR 25.50"

OME 850J plus MAF 1" spacer in the front

OME 863J in the rear

 

[FJBen]

I actually posted it on the first post. You are taller than this, with an aftermarket bumper?

I need to read a little better...I remember that. Well, you are flareless so thats going to change the measurements a little.

Here was my old 80 with Slee 4" and OMEJ

Front is 24" from center of hub to bottom of flare
Rear is 24 1/2" center of hub to bottom of flare

AFter Slee arms (which straightened the way the springs sat up front)
Front is 241/4 from center of hub to bottom of flare
Rear is 24 1/4" center of hub to bottom of flare (probably sagged/broke in)

So add 1" spacers and I"m at 25 1/4"


I had J's on the front on this current rig and the Slee 4" was exactly 1" taller. And the measurement is still 24". Only thing I can think of is the flared/no flare measuring points are causing differences.

Either way, you should be able to fit those tires

 

[2everest]

Yeah, I know now I can fit them. But what I want now, is for the truck to sit level. I don't know whether to run the 5" or 4" Comp spring in front. I was originally gunna run the 5" or 420, but since ginericLC 's post, I am thinking about the 4" or 419.



-Josh

 

[Nay]

I love these threads. You are going after the wrong springs and the wrong shocks and the wrong tires for your application

Make sure to keep us posted.

 

[2everest]

Of course, Nay would be the one to post the smart ass comment

I will be sure to let you know how much I love it.



-josh

 

[Nay]

Of course, Nay would be the one to post the smart ass comment

I will be sure to let you know how much I love it.



-josh

Just giving you sh$t

 

[concretejungle]

Of course, Nay would be the one to post the smart ass comment

I will be sure to let you know how much I love it.



-josh

don't get him started or else we will have a thesis paper on spring rates, shock compression/dampening and caster geometry that only 2% of the board can actually understand

 

[Nay]

don't get him started or else we will have a thesis paper on spring rates, shock compression/dampening and caster geometry that only 2% of the board can actually understand

Nah, I'm not the caster nazi around here

Now choosing springs that are way too stiff for your application just because they are OME, and shocks that unbalance suspension travel because they are too short to complement those too stiff springs, and adding to that ridiculously heavy military tires while hoping to cure "the rear suspension unloading like a mother" just might not work out. On the other hand, you might just be a redneck

I haven't quite figured out how you get the rear suspension to unload given that problem is more associated with the front suspension on steep climbs, particularly with radius arms, but this thread is helping me understand in a hurry

 

[2everest]

I would have to say I agree on the sway bar issue. In my findings, it unloaded/flexed way easy with the rear sway bar on, and I didn't notice much of a difference when I removed the rear swaybar. The front, I did notice a difference. You would think it would be the opposite feel. Maybe, as with what alkline747trio says, with the rear on, and front off, it would force the front to flex more. Makes sense!

I'm not gunna go into specifics with why I want to run these tires (lost cause and has been argued in plenty of other threads), but I can say that I am far from a redneck. Come on, I just love Land Cruisers.

I read these threads day in and day out, and have researched and planned on running these tires for a while. Said many times on here, "Different strokes for different folks!"



-Josh

 

[alkaline747trio]

You know you will NEED: cryo'd (or is it heat treated? I know both is bad) 5.29s, Longfields, chromoly shafts, ARP hub studs.....

Unless you never break things.

 

[2everest]

Yes, 5.29 are coming the same time. I was going to wait for the birf's and shafts. If they break, I mean when they break, I will just replace them, no biggie.

Unless it leaves me stranded

 

[Nay]

But I can say that I am far from a redneck. Come on, I just love Land Cruisers.

Really, I'm just giving you crap. I just love threads where people are trying to find the least worst OME coil and as much as I try to help it, I can't

In an attempt to be helpful, I leave the rear swaybar on and wheel with the front disconnected (I pull it at the trailhead). My entire setup feels extremely well balanced, but I also don't have a long travel suspension and my rear swaybar doesn't seem to be unhappy even though I have no drop brackets for it. Here's an idea of front/rear flex with front off and rear on.

 

[2everest]

Awesome information Nay! I am feeling like rebuilding the rear sway bar (well, new bushings), and re-installing it. This sounds like a plan. Have you ever pulled one of the front radius arm bolts? Does that make a huge difference in the front end balance? Or is it just an accident waiting to happen?



-Josh

 

[2everest]

I was also trying to find a spec sheet on the OME nitrocharger shocks. Closed length, open length, etc.


Just curious! In case anybody reading this thread has come across it!

Thanks in advance!

 

[concretejungle]

Have you ever pulled one of the front radius arm bolts? Does that make a huge difference in the front end balance? Or is it just an accident waiting to happen?



-Josh

FJBen has a good write-up on this. I have seen first hand that i know it allows the front to flex a lot more. However, i'm not sure the on-road behavior is worth leaving it out.

My plan is to use a receiver hitch pin so i can pull it out at the trail head and put it back in before i drive home.