OME CC Bushing installation question

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Mar 1, 2007
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Location
Frisco, TX
I bought a lot of parts from 4Wheelparts for my 97 LC. I’ve been doing a lot of work on it, but I needed help pressing the OME CC bushings on the lower arms. I called 4Wheelparts and they said they’ll do it for $35.. good deal, and I thought there wasn’t much to screw up here.

I gave them the marked arms, bushings, press tool, and a jig I made to measure the center to center distance between the bushings. I explained what I wanted and they said they’ve done it many times.

When I got it back, they didn’t lined up the bushings marks with mine (silver color). I didn’t like it, but the mechanic said that that is the way they always do it, and they had no issues, and that if after I installed the arms the caster was not right he would fix it.

Seems like a lot of trouble…. My question is, do you guys think that not matching my mark would make a big difference? Is it OK the way they are right now?

Also, by the way the bushings look, it seems that he went through a lot of trouble to press them.

Thanks !

PS. I did not get the old bushings and pressing tools back.
IMG_8611.webp
 
If the CC bushings aren't in the right spot your caster won't be right, at least not as "right" as the CC bushings should make it. Other factors can affect the castor being off such as installing a OME heavy lift but not adding the additional weight on the rig that OME stipulates the lift is designed for.

I guess it might be alright but the only way to know is to have it checked - Get it checked and if the castor is off then I'd go with the approach below :)

If it were me, I'd be calling the manager of the 4 Wheel Parts store or higher and demand they correct this. The bushings go in a specific way and it sounds like you hand fed them everything they needed and they still screwed it up. I'd also stipulate that you want new bushing as they will most likely destroy the existing ones trying to press them out.

BTW, it looks like they got two out of four installed in the right spot? Both rears look like the marks line up so why couldn't they line up the front bushings :confused:
 
The rear bushings look correct, the front ones are not in the correct orientation and your angles will not be in spec.

I'd go back and have them do it correctly--you did pay for a service, right?

Good luck.
-onur
 
The problem isn't so much about the resulting castor, it's about the bolt hole spacing. Try to put them on, I will bet one bolt goes in fine and the other bolt hole wont line up.
 
The problem isn't so much about the resulting castor, it's about the bolt hole spacing. Try to put them on, I will bet one bolt goes in fine and the other bolt hole wont line up.

that's what I was wondering -
it's weird - if you overlay landtank's template over it the front bushings are lined up exactly.
LANDTANK.webp
 
tools, that's exactly what i was thinking. Regardless of their orientation, if the holes are not spaced correctly they will not bolt in??? right? THe orientation does play a factor in the geometry, i'm not disputing that.
 
tools, that's exactly what i was thinking. Regardless of their orientation, if the holes are not spaced correctly they will not bolt in??? right? THe orientation does play a factor in the geometry, i'm not disputing that.

That's my experience, IIRC the bolt holes need to be ~7.25" center to center. By looking at those I would guess that they are too far apart.
 
Actually I'm pretty sure the holes will line up and fit, because I made a jig to measure the center to center distance. Using the jig I can verify that the distance between the holes is correct. See pic…

If I understood the instructions right, the front bushing is the most important as it need to match the mark. The rear bushing will be fit according to the center to center distance. Otherwise it will not fit the holes in the front axle plate.

My concern is that they didn't line up the OME raised mark with the mark that I made. I’m sure that it will throw off my caster, but the question is by how much?, is it worth it to make a big deal about it and fight with the shop about it ?

In any case, I guess I won’t know until I have the arms mounted and have an alignment check done.
IMG_8614.webp
 
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Now I’m confused ( ? ? )… you guys are saying that the orientation is wrong ??. According to the instruction the raised mark of the front bushing has to point down, and the rear has to point up, and that is exactly how I have them.

Also, do not get confused with the yellow marks. The shop for some reason made those…. There is only one important mark which is the one I made with silver color.

Granted, they did not lined up my mark on the front bushing, which throws the whole thing off. Hence, my concern with the whole caster correction.
OME CC.webp
 
Now I’m confused ( ? ? )… you guys are saying that the orientation is wrong ??. According to the instruction the raised mark of the front bushing has to point down, and the rear has to point up, and that is exactly how I have them...

They are correct, just not at the same angle. If they fit the brackets, bolt them on and see how it drives. I doubt that the slight angle change will net much castor loss.
 
nice jig. I'm going to make one similar if i decide to go with slee's 3 degree bushings.

Well, looking at the jig, i'm with tools again, install those puppies and see what you get. Get a caster sweep so you have data.
 
I'm still a junior, so I have to ask....are the marks on the contro arms already or did you have to put them there and then line up the marks on the bushings?

Has any one punched out the old, and punched in the new bushing in their garage...or do you need a press?
 
I'm still a junior, so I have to ask....are the marks on the contro arms already or did you have to put them there and then line up the marks on the bushings?

Has any one punched out the old, and punched in the new bushing in their garage...or do you need a press?

You need a press. I seriously doubt that you can get the OEM factory bushings out with anything but a press. Kirk and I used a 25 ton press that he has at his house and we used up a good portion of those 25 tons getting the old ones out. That loud "crack" that goes with pushing out bushings is slightly un-nerving.

You need to put the markings on the control arms. They do not come with any alignment marks on them. Kirk and I measured them per the directions from ARB.

Good luck.
-onur
 
Here you have...
corrector%20de%20caster.webp
 
nice jig. I'm going to make one similar if i decide to go with slee's 3 degree bushings.

Well, looking at the jig, i'm with tools again, install those puppies and see what you get. Get a caster sweep so you have data.
Thanks !. It was very easy to make. If you happen to have installed a roller fairlead on an ARB bumper, then you had the inner rods of the vertical rollers left after the install (those are replaced with the supplied ARB bolts).

These rod are a perfect fit for the bushings inner holes.

Then take a piece of 2x4, place it under the arm, and insert the rods in the bushing hole. Then with a hammer, gently (without moving anything) tap the rod, and that will leave a perfect mark on the 2x4 for the location of the holes.

Then use a bench drill to make the holes. The reason for the bench drill is that you need these holes to be as vertical as possible. The rods fit without much play, so if the rod are not perfectly vertical, then they will not slide into the bushing holes.

Measure a lot, be really careful making the holes, and you will have a perfect jig.
 
...

Then take a piece of 2x4, place it under the arm, and insert the rods in the bushing hole. Then with a hammer, gently (without moving anything) tap the rod, and that will leave a perfect mark on the 2x4 for the location of the holes.

Then use a bench drill to make the holes. The reason for the bench drill is that you need these holes to be as vertical as possible. The rods fit without much play, so if the rod are not perfectly vertical, then they will not slide into the bushing holes.

Measure a lot, be really careful making the holes, and you will have a perfect jig.

Or just put the arm over the wood and drill through the bushing holes?

I just use one arm as the jig. Put the rods through the bushings and lay the other arm over it to line up the new bushing.
 

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