OME, Bilstein or stock??

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i used a step drill and drilled it out o 3/4", the 5/8" eye was too small, still a good amount of bushing left, figured 1/8 wouldnt matter too much.
 
Arsenal - Did you ask Bilstein what the valving on the B46-1478 Rears is?

Good info on the fronts, thanks for calling them!
 
no i sure didnt, i believe the guys name was sean, really cool guy, i called the shop i bought em from to ask if they knew the valving and the guy said "land cruiser is made by land rover right?" i said " do you happen do have bilsteins number, lol.
 
i think im gonna go with the 7100 series part# B46-1103R06 360/80 valving try the fronts first and see what happens.
 
B46-1478 Rears are 386/54 :beer:. they also said the 7100 series arent really clear coated and designed for an eastern environment with road salt, anyone have any experience?
 
If you do go with the 7100's, they are pretty easy to revalve yourself, and custom valve stacks are only about $15 per shock. The only tricky part about rebuilding a 7100 is the 250 PSI nitrogen charge.
 
ElJefe said:
If you do go with the 7100's, they are pretty easy to revalve yourself, and custom valve stacks are only about $15 per shock. The only tricky part about rebuilding a 7100 is the 250 PSI nitrogen charge.

You will need to buy a nitrogen tank anyway because I have found that the nitrogen leaks down with time. FWIW 250# is the max you can run less.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
You will need to buy a nitrogen tank anyway because I have found that the nitrogen leaks down with time. FWIW 250# is the max you can run less.


cool, tomorrow im gonna order

AK7112SB99-400/100 from eshocks.com 12"travel shortbody 28.06" ext. 16.08 collapsed, 400/100 valving. seems pretty sweet, just gonna do fronts, ill let u guys know after i put em on this weekend
 
Arsenal said:
cool, tomorrow im gonna order

AK7112SB99-400/100 from eshocks.com 12"travel shortbody 28.06" ext. 16.08 collapsed, 400/100 valving. seems pretty sweet, just gonna do fronts, ill let u guys know after i put em on this weekend


If you are looking for the most bang for your buck start with the rear. With the proper length shock you can use all 12" in the rear without other major or costly modification not the case with the front.

The good part is wheather you start with the front or rear it will be the last shock you need to buy.:)

Look foward to the report:cheers:
 
Arsenal said:
cool, tomorrow im gonna order

AK7112SB99-400/100 from eshocks.com 12"travel shortbody 28.06" ext. 16.08 collapsed, 400/100 valving. seems pretty sweet, just gonna do fronts, ill let u guys know after i put em on this weekend

Ohh that sounds nice. I didn't know you could get them with that valving, but I see it at eshocks.com. I'd really like to see how this turns out. Are you using the man-a-fre shock mount converters? I'm curious to see how they will work with the spherical bushings. I know JKS makes some shock adaptors for this application, however they are for a Jeep:

http://www.jksmfg.com/shock_adapter.htm

Arsenal, thanks for being the guinea pig I wish I could be! :cheers:
 
Arsenal said:
cool, tomorrow im gonna order

AK7112SB99-400/100 from eshocks.com 12"travel shortbody 28.06" ext. 16.08 collapsed, 400/100 valving. seems pretty sweet, just gonna do fronts, ill let u guys know after i put em on this weekend


Given the standard shock valving is 384/153 and you are presumably running larger tires (more unsprung weight), heavier springs, and a heavier vehicle than stock, I would not go with 400/100 valving. If anything you need more dampining on the rebound, not less than stock. You should consider 400/150-175 for the front. For the rear I would absolutely go heavier on the rebound damping as the stock bilstein valving feels underdamped on the rebound side with firmer than stock springs. I would try 400/75-100 on the rear compared to the 380/50 stock.
 
cary said:
Given the standard shock valving is 384/153 and you are presumably running larger tires (more unsprung weight), heavier springs, and a heavier vehicle than stock, I would not go with 400/100 valving. If anything you need more dampining on the rebound, not less than stock. You should consider 400/150-175 for the front. For the rear I would absolutely go heavier on the rebound damping as the stock bilstein valving feels underdamped on the rebound side with firmer than stock springs. I would try 400/75-100 on the rear compared to the 380/50 stock.

The 400 rating is the rebound dampening, and the 100 is the compression dampening so he is going larger on the rebound. My only concern is that he might want more compression dampening to counteract the sway.
 
Darwood said:
The 400 rating is the rebound dampening, and the 100 is the compression dampening so he is going larger on the rebound. My only concern is that he might want more compression dampening to counteract the sway.

I'm going to shut up now before I make a further fool of myself.
 
shane is the one i have been talking with, he thinks it will work, if not i can always revalve and play with the shims. just doing the fronts right now.
 
Same here... I don't want to see the death of this.
 
Bringing the thread back to life!!! What's the latest with the two dudes with Bils?
 
mine are still in the box in the garage - I have the JK manufacturing adapters but need to figure out the lower rear mounts before I can proceed

I am getting ready to do it
 
I'm running slee 4" coils with 360/80 valving and I'm desiring still a little less sway. Just curious as to what the latest update is.

Dumb question: how do you guys quantify the rebound charateristic of a 7100? I can easily tell when the compression force need to be increased in order to reduce nose diving or leaning around corners. But, how can you tell when the rebound force is not good?

Thanks.
 
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