OME-200K - Old Man Emu 200 Series Suspension Kit for 2008-Current Toyota Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

[Kansas Scott]

Back in 2016 I got the OME-200K suspension kit installed on my 2015 LC. The specifics of the kit were:

Front Shocks: 91005 - OME Nitrocharger Sport Front Shock
Front Coils: OME 2700: Stock/Light Load, 1-inch lift

Upper Control Arms: UCA0001 - Old Man Emu Upper Control Arms - 200 Series Land Cruiser

Rear Shocks: 61029 - OME Nitrocharger Sport Rear Shock, Softer valving
Rear Coils: 2721: Medium Load, No Lift


I have removed the rear seats and replaced them with a Frontrunner two-drawer system that weigh 170lbs empty filled with about 100lbs of tools and equipment.

I only do a small amount of light offroading.

My primary use of the LC is to pull a 2018 Keystone Bullet Crossfire 2070B (just under 24') that has a hitch weight of about 420lbs, probably around 480lbs in use with full propane tanks.

I have noticed during the last two years when doing our summer camping trips with the travel trailer that the rear of the LC begins to sag when hitched up. I have a WD hitch that is adjusted to transfer part of the weight forward. Initially, everything would be level once hitched. After towing the sag becomes more evident.

Is the sag an indication that I need to replace my shocks and coils? I wouldn't think I was putting too much weight on my hitch or that the drawers add to much weight to the rear of the vehicle.

Thank you for your thoughts!

 

[bloc]

Shocks shouldn’t be stiff enough to reduce sag when loaded, that’s 100% coil selection.

Personally I’d be looking at airbags if you have a trailer large enough for a WD hitch. Any coil that can support the load of the drawers and trailer by itself will add significant stiffness and ride height when unhitched as well as hurt off road capability. Bags aren’t very expensive and allow you to keep your existing handling without the trailer but add load handling capacity when needed.

 

[Kansas Scott]

I appreciate the advice.

Would you recommend a specific bag system?

 

[bloc]

I appreciate the advice.

Would you recommend a specific bag system?

I haven’t researched them much beyond noticing a few discussions in this section. I’d try doing some searching, or maybe some people running them can throw in some info.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I recently installed Firestone 4164 helper airbags to keep the rear from drooping when loaded up for camping:

I don't remember seeing a thorough install thread for airbags on here, so I'm making this description very detailed.

I added Firestone 4164 helper airbags (and added 1/4" wire loom to protect the air tubes). These are rated for up to 35 psi. You can get the same ones, but with sleeves that bring them up to over 60psi max if you purchase the HD version from Airbagman (but it's like 3x more expensive shipped from AUS). They do seem to be the correct item to go with my 2" lift (this was the advice from a few other comments throughout the forum). Whenever we would go on family trips the past couple years, the gear would make the back sag 1" - 2", so this is to alleviate that problem and make it handle better but otherwise keep my non-harsh ride when the LC is not loaded up.

View attachment 3008989
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First, here's a really brief summary of the steps, before I get into more detail:

Prep work:

1. Jack up rear frame on both sides and place jack stands.
2. Remove both rear tires AND spare tire (creates a ton more room, I waited too long to do this).
3. Loosen KDSS bolts 2.5 turns.
4. Remove top breather bolt (12mm) to avoid damage when axle droops (I prefer removing the top bolt instead of the bottom clamp, since clamps often aren't airtight anymore after removing them).
5. Remove the first 2 bolts (12mm) holding the brake line (passenger side) where it arrives at the axle.
6. Remove the bolt (12mm) holding the emergency brake line to the axle.

Spring removal work (an extra set of jack stands can be useful for all axle work, but not required):

1. Jack up rear axle by the diff slightly to avoid make sure you're in control of the droop at all time.
2. Remove bottom shock mount bolts (17mm) and hammer shock off the pin.
3. Remove driver side sway bar linkage bolt - 19mm.
4. Remove passenger side sway bar linkage bolt - 14mm (be careful on this one, the washers and bushings like to fall off and roll away).
   • NOTE: This is the important step to make removing the passenger side rear spring really easy, and that usually is not mentioned in instructions anywhere.
5. Jack up the passenger side of the rear axle, and let the driver side droop.
6. Push down on the driver side wheel hub with your knee, the axle should droop enough to get the spring out.
7. Jack up the driver side of the rear axle, and let the passenger side droop.
8. Push down on the driver side wheel hub with your knee, the axle should droop enough to get the spring out. You might need to brace your back against the wheel well.

Airbag work (just following the included instructions):

1. Take the pyramid-looking bump stops out of the springs and cut off the lower 4 sections.
2. Put the airbags in the springs (hole toward the top).
3. Cut the provided tube in half, and add the wire loom now if you have some.
   • NOTE: leave at least 1" bare without loom on one side for the next step.
4. Push to securely connect each section of tube to the easy-connect fittings on the airbags.
5. Thread the tube through the hole in the shortened bump stops, placing the bump stops where they belong on the springs.
6. Stand the spring/airbag/tube combination on the ground near where they belong on the axle.
7. Thread the tube through the top frame hole where the springs will rest, and temporarily bring them out through the gap in above the frame into the wheel well. This will make routing a lot easier.
8. Install the spring/airbag/tube combinations back onto the axle. Do passenger first, then driver. Same procedure as when you removed them - push on hub with knee and insert springs (make sure to align correctly).
9. Route and zip-tie along the top or outside edges of the frame (there are lots of other tubes and cables in there that you can bundle them with), until you reach your target where you'd like to install your air valves. You'll have a ton of extra tubing, just leave the extra for now.
   • NOTE: Make sure you consider spare tire clearance.
10. Install your air valves (1/2" top and bottom).
    • NOTE: A super convenient valve install point is in a little metal tab that is hidden but easily accessible under the plastic flap when you have your tailgate open. The existing holes are just barely too small, and need a tiny bit material drilled out first (and paint to protect from corrosion).
11. Trim the tubing to the correct length to reach the air valves, but leaving a little slack. Remember to trim the wire loom back at least 1" from the end.
12. Securely press the tube ends to the easy-connect fittings on the air valves.

Finishing up:

1. Connect the sway bar linkages in the reverse order that you disconnected them. First the passenger side (jack up driver side axle first, then should be easy to manually place with the washers and bushings).
2. Leave the passenger side axle high, this will push the driver side sway bar down, making it easier to bolt it back up to the driver side linkage (do this now).
   • NOTE: you'll probably need to use a jack or ratchet strap to push the linkage up the rest of the way to the sway bar. I used a jack.
3. Replace lower shock mount bolts. Raise or lower each side of axle to make the hole line up, hammer the shock onto the mount, then install bolt.
   • NOTE: Make sure the tops of the springs stay inserted on the mounting lip, as they like to fall out during this.
4. Reinstall emergency brake line bolt.
5. Reinstall 2 brake line bolts.
6. Reinstall breather bolt.
7. Reinstall wheels & spare.
8. Lower vehicle, and let it sit on level ground for 10 - 15 minutes (maybe even bound around a little on the rear, too) so the KDSS system settles.
9. Tighten KDSS bolts.
10. Inflate airbags to 5psi (minimum when not using them.
    • NOTE: I added a hand pump to my gear that goes up to 30psi, since the airbags max out at 35psi. The hand pump works pretty good, and I will use it only when I need to make small increments (15 pumps for 5psi) or don't want to get out my bigger compressor.

Lots of pictures coming next...

It seems most people on the forum who have airbags recommend either these Firestone bags (max 35 psi), or the heavy-duty version of them that Airbagman sells (they add a fabric sleeve around it for max 60 psi).

 

[El Cid]

Back in 2016 I got the OME-200K suspension kit installed on my 2015 LC. The specifics of the kit were:

Front Shocks: 91005 - OME Nitrocharger Sport Front Shock
Front Coils: OME 2700: Stock/Light Load, 1-inch lift

Upper Control Arms: UCA0001 - Old Man Emu Upper Control Arms - 200 Series Land Cruiser

Rear Shocks: 61029 - OME Nitrocharger Sport Rear Shock, Softer valving
Rear Coils: 2721: Medium Load, No Lift


I have removed the rear seats and replaced them with a Frontrunner two-drawer system that weigh 170lbs empty filled with about 100lbs of tools and equipment.

I only do a small amount of light offroading.

My primary use of the LC is to pull a 2018 Keystone Bullet Crossfire 2070B (just under 24') that has a hitch weight of about 420lbs, probably around 480lbs in use with full propane tanks.

I have noticed during the last two years when doing our summer camping trips with the travel trailer that the rear of the LC begins to sag when hitched up. I have a WD hitch that is adjusted to transfer part of the weight forward. Initially, everything would be level once hitched. After towing the sag becomes more evident.

Is the sag an indication that I need to replace my shocks and coils? I wouldn't think I was putting too much weight on my hitch or that the drawers add to much weight to the rear of the vehicle.

Thank you for your thoughts!

Can the Front Coils be done with no lift? Is there a product that is identical to the rear coils? Meaning, is the one inch lift necessary?

 

[Kansas Scott]

I had the front and rear shocks and springs replaced as well as the Firestone 4135 airbags installed along with an air compressor system.

Towed the travel trailer home from storage. The bags make the difference in combination with the WD hitch in keeping both the vehicle and trailer level.

We head for Montana tomorrow. I will be curious to see how it feels on the highway and if gas mileage improves at all.

I really appreciate everyone's assistance in helping me to get this problem figured out.