Old Man Emu Lift Issues In Rear (1 Viewer)

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For what it’s worth, a 4” lift in the rear only requires a .2” longer panhard rod to recenter.

What I’ve noticed over the last year of doing quite a bit of 200 suspension is two things:
1) Worn components don’t like lifts
2) Most shops don’t install things well.

My personal 200 had the same sway you had when bone stock. It was a bad tire, that eventually caused wear to a front lower ball joint purely because the original owner didn’t get it aligned for 20,000 miles. The front end was not stable, and it takes the rear end for a ride.

Adding any type of change in geometry, to components that have be wearing into one degree range for tens of thousands of miles can possibly make some issues more pronounced. The issue was already there (wear), a lift just brings it out in the spot light immediately.

For number two. A lot of components under your truck can only be torqued down when the weight of the vehicle is on the ground. So when a shop installs rear coils, they need to also loosen the rear upper and lower control arms, and the lateral rod. The rubber bushes are a deflection type bush and are not happy when they are twisted all up from being set for factory height. Then when on the ground, and settled, everything gets torqued to factor specs. That adds hours to do it right, which doesn’t make money, so they just get the truck out, and move to the next job. That and the whole “A” spring goes on the fuel tank side.

Anyway, my small opinion, I’d bet you have a bunch of slightly worn components, with bound up bushes, and a crappy alignment. All those things don’t mean much by themselves, but combine them, and they give an uneasy driving experience.
 
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For what it’s worth, a 4” lift in the rear only requires a .2” longer panhard rod to recenter.

What I’ve noticed over the last year of doing quite a bit of 200 suspension is two things:
1) Worn components don’t like lifts
2) Most shops don’t install things well.

My personal 200 had the same sway you had when bone stock. It was a bad tire, that eventually caused wear to a front lower ball joint purely because the original owner didn’t get it aligned for 20,000 miles. The front end was not stable, and it takes the rear end for a ride.

Adding any type of change in geometry, to components that have be wearing into one degree range for tens of thousands of miles can possibly make some issues more pronounced. The issue was already there (wear), a lift just brings it out in the spot light immediately.

For number two. A lot of components under your truck can only be torqued down when the weight of the vehicle is on the ground. So when a shop installs rear coils, they need to also loosen the rear upper and lower control arms, and the lateral rod. The rubber bushes are a deflection type bush and are not happy when they are twisted all up from being set for factory height. Then when on the ground, and settled, everything gets torqued to factor specs. That adds hours to do it right, which doesn’t make money, so they just get the truck out, and move to the next job. That and the whole “A” spring goes on the fuel tank side.

Anyway, my small opinion, I’d bet you have a bunch of slightly worn components, with bound up bushes, and a crappy alignment. All those things don’t mean much by themselves, but combine them, and they give an uneasy driving experience.
I’m doubting I have a handful of warn bushings, components. I bought the truck a few months ago, It’s a 2013 with 90,000 miles and always a Carolina truck before I brought it down to South FL to build it. My 100 was a California truck and I’ve had some issues with dried out bushings in the suspension. I will say, after putting a few hundred miles on the 2703/2723 setup, the truck seems to be riding better. Either I’m getting used to the ride, or it’s settling in some. Regardless, I’m going to swap the 2721’s in when they get here and throw the new panhard rod on since it’s on it’s way too. “A” spring on passenger side of course.
 
For what it’s worth, a 4” lift in the rear only requires a .2” longer panhard rod to recenter.

What I’ve noticed over the last year of doing quite a bit of 200 suspension is two things:
1) Worn components don’t like lifts
2) Most shops don’t install things well.

My personal 200 had the same sway you had when bone stock. It was a bad tire, that eventually caused wear to a front lower ball joint purely because the original owner didn’t get it aligned for 20,000 miles. The front end was not stable, and it takes the rear end for a ride.

Adding any type of change in geometry, to components that have be wearing into one degree range for tens of thousands of miles can possibly make some issues more pronounced. The issue was already there (wear), a lift just brings it out in the spot light immediately.

For number two. A lot of components under your truck can only be torqued down when the weight of the vehicle is on the ground. So when a shop installs rear coils, they need to also loosen the rear upper and lower control arms, and the lateral rod. The rubber bushes are a deflection type bush and are not happy when they are twisted all up from being set for factory height. Then when on the ground, and settled, everything gets torqued to factor specs. That adds hours to do it right, which doesn’t make money, so they just get the truck out, and move to the next job. That and the whole “A” spring goes on the fuel tank side.

Anyway, my small opinion, I’d bet you have a bunch of slightly worn components, with bound up bushes, and a crappy alignment. All those things don’t mean much by themselves, but combine them, and they give an uneasy driving experience.

There is huge wisdom in this. And it’s what makes tracking down issues difficult. A worn joint and a new joint look VERY similar. And even when on a lift the suspension is under tension which makes it hard to detect play. And with worn parts it can be the sum of the wear that results in the expressed problem, not just a single point of failure. One downside to driving trucks that last so long is that we spend a good duration of the ownership with partially worn bits.

Regarding the torquing of bushings, I know of a 100 driver with shocks installed at a reputable shop. Developed a clunk that couldn’t be resolved. Ended up being a front shock lower mount that was torqued a full droop. Completely undetectable on the rack. Only a methodical step by step approach was able to find it.
 
I swapped the 2721’s in for the 2723’s today. YUUUGE difference in rear end ride. Definitely the way to go with my current setup. I also put the Dobinsons track bar in simply to center the rear axle again. I think the horrible ride in the rear was due to the underloaded 2723 springs and large rear end rake. I think it was the right combo to make it feel a little squirrelly back there. Very happy with the 2721’s now that they are in.
 
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I swapped the 2721’s in for the 2723’s today. YUUUGE difference in rear end ride. Definitely the way to go with my current setup. I also put the Dobinsons track bar in simply to center the rear again. I think the horrible ride in the rear was due to the underloaded 2723 springs and large rear end rake. I think it was the right combo to make it feel a little squirrelly back there. Very happy with the 2721’s now that they are in.

Got mine done as well. Had the 2722s which gave me too much lift (only a drawer and no third row seats). Ride is more tame, but probably not what you were experiencing with the 2723s...

Unfortunately, my driver’s side is 1.5” taller in the rear compared to passenger side. Mudrak claims the “A” spring he had received was taller, and installed it on left hand (driver’s) side, not the passenger side where it should be, according to ARB. If it was taller, he would be correct, but I’m not sure that’s the case 🤔

“A” passenger, taller?
“B” drivers shorter??? I thought ARB & Cruiser Outfitters website says “B” is taller. So confused.
 
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Got mine done as well. Had the 2722s which gave me too much lift (only a drawer and no third row seats). Ride is more tame, but probably not what you were experiencing with the 2723s...

Unfortunately, my driver’s side is 1.5” taller in the rear compared to passenger side. Mudrak claims the “A” spring he had received was taller, and installed it on left hand (driver’s) side, not the passenger side where it should be, according to ARB. If it was taller, he would be correct, but I’m not sure that’s the case 🤔

“A” passenger, taller?
“B” drivers shorter??? I thought ARB & Cruiser Outfitters website says “B” is taller. So confused.

I believe the KDSS can cause a lean to one side for a bit. I didn’t have that problem but a handful of guys have a way to fix it. Search it. I’ve seen some roll a corner up on a 4x4 piece of wood. “A” spring passenger in US from what I understand. Gas tank on passenger side. It should be taller.
 
I believe the KDSS can cause a lean to one side for a bit. I didn’t have that problem but a handful of guys have a way to fix it. Search it. I’ve seen some roll a corner up on a 4x4 piece of wood. “A” spring passenger in US from what I understand. Gas tank on passenger side. It should be taller.
Yea, been reading many threads on Mud, and that’s what I thought, but saw this on @cruiseroutfit ’s website adding to my confusion. And Mudrak said put taller on driver’s side...
83F59FAB-7F3A-4153-AB71-23B8F0275412.jpeg

 
Yea, been reading many threads on Mud, and that’s what I thought, but saw this on @cruiseroutfit ’s website adding to my confusion. And Mudrak said put taller on driver’s side...View attachment 2209579
I’d call Slee tomorrow to see what they mostly do. I’m guessing “A” on passenger instead of height. When I pulled my 2703’s after a few hundred miles, it was hard to tell which spring was taller. Mudrak is as legit as it gets too. I’d point the finger at a KDSS lean vs installer error. If anything, Mudrak helped you out.
 
Does anyone make a drop bracket for the 200?
From what I understand, there isn't anyone making a drop bracket for the 200 yet.
 
I have a 2013 200 Series with OME2725: .75" Heavy Constant (880 - 1300 lbs of additional rear weight) rear springs. and the heavy front springs. Adjustable UCA's and adjustable Panhard bar.

The ride was good but the front to rear rake was very pronounced. I had some OEM spacers and OME spacers installed and that leveled out the front and seemed to improve the ride.

I noticed a side to side movement on curves . I checked and found the bolt holding the panhard bar had lost its nut . I'm getting that fixed today. I'm hoping that was the issue with the stability.

I'm going to have to educate myself on the KDSS system to check that out.
 
Reading all of this reminds me why I will never ever pull apart the OEM suspension on a 90k truck. Seems like nothing but headache for a couple inches of lift.
 
Reading all of this reminds me why I will never ever pull apart the OEM suspension on a 90k truck. Seems like nothing but headache for a couple inches of lift.
Now that I've got the correct rear springs in for the weight I carry, the ride is quite lovely. And better than OEM for sure. Just needed to get rid of the heavy load springs.
 
I’d call Slee tomorrow to see what they mostly do. I’m guessing “A” on passenger instead of height. When I pulled my 2703’s after a few hundred miles, it was hard to tell which spring was taller. Mudrak is as legit as it gets too. I’d point the finger at a KDSS lean vs installer error. If anything, Mudrak helped you out.
What was the verdict of A vs B?
 
@RumBum , did it feel like it was rocking from the back driver to front passenger corners? Almost a wobble between those points?
 

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