Ol Double ugly Cancer surgery pics

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I used the "extreme", its 40 Mil I believe. Shoulda ponied up for the "ultimate" which I believe is 60 Mil. As I recall I purchased 100 Sqft. I could easily use 150-200 sqft. I ran out and i still need to do the inside of 3 doors, the firewall and the rear cargo area could use some more.
 
Now on to the doors. I'll be adding actuators, damping the inside of the door skin and damping the metal side of the door panel. here is a pic of the actuators Im using, I would advise against using the cheesy screws that comes with it, the are soft and will strip. the new actuators have a plastic eye that rotates and allows for more flexible mounting, which is good because the 60 is more difficult than most toyota's for access to the Lock plunger rod.

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The only real place to mount the actuator is low in the door, just inside the large access hole. The lock plunger rod has some rubber tubing around it that will need to be trimmed off to allow you to attached the actuator rod. Once you trim off the tubing run the actuator rod up inside the door, at the same time try and hold the actuator where you thing you'll mount it and check the window for clearance. I had about 1/16" clearance. Now attach the little connector to both the lock plunger rod and the actuator rod and check for function and that you wont be binding anywhere. I eyeballed the actuator motor a bunch before I drilled my two 1/8th inch pilot holes. 2 3/4 inch sheet metal screws worked perfect and really get a good bite on the plastic mounting holes, Make sure that the screws are sucked up tight.
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once you get the actuator motor mounted double check your window clearance again. Next use a 12 volt cordless drill battery to check function, make sure you're not binding or rubbing on anything then I like to add a little lock tight to the rod attachment screws.

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Next I twisted and ran my color matched wires. cut your single wires to length, put one end in your bench vise and the other in your cordless drill and voila nice clean looking wires...

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Threw some more damping material on the inside of the door skin

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Next I put on the Cascade audio VB-2 visco-elastic dampner/vapor barrier. this stuff rocks. Its a little brittle when its cool but just work a small section at a time and use a heat gun to warm it up and you can mold it with ease. use the low setting on your heat gun and this stuff can get too hot and tear. when it cools its hard and tight as a drum. very, very cool stuff.

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Great work

That is an amazing restoration.
Are you replacing the headliner? If yes, what are you going to use for headliner & carpet?
 
The plan is to replace the headliner, since I have nothing to lose, im going to attempt to clean the headliner with a combination of "Blue Coral's dry cleaning solution and a steam cleaner using a mix of chemdry solution, oxy clean and color safe bleach.

The Carpet kit is the SOR carpet kit, this is the part of the project im dreading. it looks like a complete PITA, and I have never done a carpet swap before. Luckily I have the old carpet to use a template for all the cut outs. Should be fun!!
 
wow holy smokes wow!!!! that door skin stuff looks cool where did you het it and how much???

great job!!!!
 
Gears whirring...........man I need the exact same panel for my driver's rear. Wish I could find one.
 
Wow. Subscribing
 
I really like the vapor barrier.....

Few Q's

I have a large piece if thick heat/sound (5'x8') deadener that I have had for some time you may need or want?

Why not go with a set of leather that I offer in any color combo that you want??

Best,

Shane
 
Here are pics of the rear door lock actuators installed, some one was asking about how I mounted them. even easier than the fronts since the little rear quarter window doesn't roll down there are no clearance issues to deal with. used a little piece of the back strap they supply with the actuator kit to secure the front mount bracket and voila, a 3 min job.

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