I wanted to pick your brains and see if this has been done before. I am going up to a larger tire and want to run a better suspention. I know the 60's work good on the 40's springs and axles but I am going to end up with a hardcore bastard of a truck and I think the 60 axles would work well. any thoughts?
ok what about 60 axles on a 81 toy truck
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Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
Not worth the trouble IMHO.
With a 60 axle, you get the same steering knuckles. Same birfields, similar brakes. Larger Diff (more expensive to regear) same diameter 30 spline inner axles . I think that the width is also very similar to what you probably already have.
For the money you would spend buying 60 axles, you can put in some Cro-mo longfields and inners and put an axle brace on.
Also, consider that you will have to have the 60 series axle cut and turned for the proper caster angle, where the minitruck axle you already have is already set to go.
Not worth it.
With a 60 axle, you get the same steering knuckles. Same birfields, similar brakes. Larger Diff (more expensive to regear) same diameter 30 spline inner axles . I think that the width is also very similar to what you probably already have.
For the money you would spend buying 60 axles, you can put in some Cro-mo longfields and inners and put an axle brace on.
Also, consider that you will have to have the 60 series axle cut and turned for the proper caster angle, where the minitruck axle you already have is already set to go.
Not worth it.
You wouldn't be gaining much strength. Maybe with the 9.5" R&P vs. the 8". You would be getting some more width though, but not a whole lot. You'll have to deal with the t'cases centered rear and the cruiser pass offset. No biggy though. Could use a dual double cardan joints (i.e. cv on each end of the driveshaft).
Not worth the hassle unless you can do it 100% yourself and even at that I doubt it...
Yup, you would gain width. About 3" going from 55" to 58" approx. For the rear you can build a centered diff by using the cruiser chunk and the axles from an IFS mini. That way both ends are approx 58" wide. Spring perch distance is different too so...
That's a lot of work when there are easier ways to add width to a mini.
Yup, you would gain width. About 3" going from 55" to 58" approx. For the rear you can build a centered diff by using the cruiser chunk and the axles from an IFS mini. That way both ends are approx 58" wide. Spring perch distance is different too so...
That's a lot of work when there are easier ways to add width to a mini.
Or you could use marlin crawler's Toybox.
easier than the 60-swap would be to switch to a IFS mini rear axle (58" WTW) and run spacers on your stock front. The only thing on the 60 that's better is the ring-pinion, balance is equal strength, and IMO that effort isn't worth it.
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thank you all for the info. It helped alot in the planning of my rig here is where I am now.
I have 4" spring lift 2" body. Just put on 33x12.50 Lockright in the rear. coustom front bumper marlin 4.70 trnsfer case gears in the mail and next week I am taking 16" out of the bed. long term I will lock the front build a truckey bed full exoskellition strenthen the axels and go up to 38's second tcase change r&p and possibly propane.
I have 4" spring lift 2" body. Just put on 33x12.50 Lockright in the rear. coustom front bumper marlin 4.70 trnsfer case gears in the mail and next week I am taking 16" out of the bed. long term I will lock the front build a truckey bed full exoskellition strenthen the axels and go up to 38's second tcase change r&p and possibly propane.
Poser said:
I should have said the toybox adapter. Mini truck reduction box to split case adapter.
