Oil suggestions for 2010 with 107K? (1 Viewer)

[LCMemphis]

A couple of, you have confirmed what my service advisor told me....that they DO in fact use oil from bulk tanks that is made for them by Penzoil, among others. He insists its the real Toyota 0W20 synthetic but they do this b/c of costs so they can pass on savings. My last oil ticket said Penzoil and he says they "have to" print it this way, even though its really Toyota oil. So who's right and is the only way to get genuine Toyo oil to insist they use bottles and pay more?

 

[tominboise]

I have attached the one oil sample I have done on my 200 series. Oil used was Toyota 0W-20. Driving was mixed - mostly commuting and includes a trip from Boise to Moab with trail rides included.

 

[bloc]

It is possible that pennzoil is formulating oil that meets their specs/testing and supplying in bulk. It would be pretty ballsy of them to flat out lie to you.. but then dealer service departments often deserve the bad reputation they have.

If they could show me some sort of paperwork proving the stuff was formulated for toyota I’d have no problem using it. Keep in mind millions of Toyota’s last a very long time using bulk oil from the dealer for their first few tens of thousands of miles.

 

[bozochu]

Thanks Tom. I will post my test results after next change.

 

[LCMemphis]

Hey Bloc..that's exactly what I plan to do...ask them for something in writing. That should bring it to a head.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

If an oil meets specifications, then the oil is not going to be the reason for engine failure.

We require API SN.

Now here’s the fun part. SN Plus was created as a way to help eliminate Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). It’s a phenomenon that is created in smaller displacement, turbo charge engines when driving around at low RPMs. It’s a big problem for Ford EcoBoost and the onslaught of like engines. What has been found is calcium in the oil contributes to it. So SN Plus was created. (Side note, this is why Toyota hasn’t jumped into that engine design, and when they do, I’m gonna hold off till I hear that LSPI isn’t an issue).

So... back to calcium. Well it’s been really reduced in a lot of oils to meet this SN Plus requirement. And that is where timing chain wear was managed, and it’s gone now, and been replaced with something that we don’t really know about yet.

The upcoming API classification is going to incorporate timing chain stretch and wear parameters because of LSPI formulations.

So finding a API SN, and not a SN Plus is more advantageous for our port injected, naturally aspirated, timing chain driven, 5.7 liters. So that pretty much leaves TGMO.

Does running a SN Plus reduce your engine life compared to a SN? Maybe? But you’ll never find out because the difference will be somewhere in the half million miles and it will negligible.

Some white paper on BITOG took literally hundreds of thousands of oil analysis of some of the most populare engines and found that Dino or synthetic doesn’t even matter. Just change your oil when it’s due and it will last longer than you can handle it. That means when the oil is due, so Dino doesn’t let as long as synthetic (synthesized Dino), but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t do it’s job while in your engine as long as it meets spec.

If you have oil consumption, get a high mileage oil to “condition” the seals (if your into that king of thing) and that’s only going to be a SN Plus anymore. If everything is fine, run whatever you like as long as it is API SN or greater, in no less than a 20 weight oil. Your motor will last just as long as the TGMO when it comes to real world use and longevity.

 

[Markuson]

Thank you for this.
I don’t have the credentials to back it up like you do ( @Taco2Cruiser ) but have always concentrated more on more frequent oil changes, rather than “perfect oil” over longer change intervals. It’s been fine over the last 18 years of LC ownership.

On my 100 series, I used non-synthetic for 13 years until selling it when it was 16 years old. That truck never had a single engine issue. I mean like zero. With my 11.5 year old 200 now, I’ve followed the same basic idea & my trusted Toyota guy says with my shorter oil change intervals, it’s perfectly fine to skip synthetic.

Sounds like that reflects what you describe.

 

[Yossarian]

Another vote for the synthetic oil here, but for a different reason. Those of us in cold climates might experience slow cranking with dino oil in the winter. I've found that synthetic oils, in almost all applications, engine, transfer case, differentials, etc. just seem work better when the temp drops.

@Taco2Cruiser any thoughts on that?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Another vote for the synthetic oil here, but for a different reason. Those of us in cold climates might experience slow cranking with dino oil in the winter. I've found that synthetic oils, in almost all applications, engine, transfer case, differentials, etc. just seem work better when the temp drops.

@Taco2Cruiser any thoughts on that?

I would agree with that’s statements. I just offer that with today’s API SN requirements, meeting specs, meets specs. So the difference in “feel” is just not what it used to be.

Today’s longer factory oil change intervals have helping bring synthetic oil cost down as it’s better on the environment to not change fluid as much.

But with that, API requirements have gone up to meet the demand of today’s engines. Which brings even Dino API SN oil at some pretty solid stuff.

Also, we need to look at the range of viscosities of these oils. And viscosity isn’t really the right term, more like pumpability. Within any grade of fluid, there is a range. Let’s just stick with motor oil for now though. A xW-20 oil has a range, and depending on the oil you buy, will be “thicker” or “thinner” (also not correct terms, but I’m keeping it easy).

So you got TGMO, which lives at the lighter side of the 20 weights, all the way up to Mobil 1 truck and SUV and RedLine xW-20s which lives at the heavier of the 20 weights. So on the edge of 20 weight that light 30 weights like Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus 5w-30 is so close it’s not even funny. Same goes for Dino, they hang out on the heavier side. Which is why you probably like the older synthetics for cold starts. But looking at the oils available right now. You can buy a heavy 20 weight oil and a good 20 weight Dino oil and they will have some very close MRV (pumpability) specs and means the same to the average engine and daily duties that we put them through. Sure the Dino will loos it’s TBN faster, but that doesn’t make it worse, just needs to be changed more frequently, and since it’s cheap, you can afford to change it more often.

Moral of the story, run whatever you want, we’ll never be able to find an oil that is a little more better than all the oils that are already more better than needed. And sleep easy at night.

This is also coming from a guy who can’t stop thinking about this stuff and longevity.

 

[04UZJ100]

TGMO - Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0W-20 Synthetic. The only choice.

HTH

When and why did you switch to 5W30?

 

[gaijin]

When and why did you switch to 5W30?

View attachment 2905804

Last oil change. Specs look good, thought I'd give it a try.

 

[04UZJ100]

Last oil change. Specs look good, thought I'd give it a try.

What’s your impression so far?

 

[gaijin]

What’s your impression so far?

No apparent difference other than slightly higher indicated oil pressure.

 

[AnyMal]

Interesting thoughts.

Is there any validity to amsoil or whatever else premium products being better even if marginally so?

Also for my sake is there any harm in switching weights seasonally?

 

[tacoduck]

I run m1 extended performance 5-30 with the ep m1 oil filter and a 10k oci. I hate getting my truck serviced and the 5.7 is super easy on oil. Truck sits in a climate controlled garage, so I don’t have cold engine starts.

I ran the same oil on my 100 and it had 310k miles on it when I sold it.

 

[04UZJ100]

Interesting thoughts.

Is there any validity to amsoil or whatever else premium products being better even if marginally so?

Also for my sake is there any harm in switching weights seasonally?

In our applications, likely no measurable impact over the life of the engine. Especially for those like me that change out synthetic well ahead of the “recommended” 10k OCI.

Some people like the ‘feel goods’ of running boutique oil, or supporting a small business (I think it’s a pyramid scheme), or running a premium oil - kinda like running 93 octane in the Cruiser.

Changing viscosities is fine - but why? The seasonal changes in TX don’t warrant it. They don’t even warrant it in Chicago.

 

[rscoleman]

My LC I change every 5K 0w-20 Mobil 1 probably over kill but oh well.
My T100 I change once a year or every 3K 5w-30 what ever is on sale.
My Motorcycle gets once a year or every 8K Shell Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic oil
My wife car goes to dealer once a year or every 3750miles and they put in what they put in.
My Yamaha outboard once a year Yamaha service pack (Yamaha branded oil and filter)

 

[tacoduck]

I was under the impression that 0-20 is recommended, not because of superior protection, but from a mpg standpoint. I’m willing to give up the mpg for better protection

In our applications, likely no measurable impact over the life
Changing viscosities is fine - but why? The seasonal changes in TX don’t warrant it. They don’t even warrant it in Chicago.

In our applications, likely no measurable impact over the life of the engine. Especially for those like me that change out synthetic well ahead of the “recommended” 10k OCI.

Some people like the ‘feel goods’ of running boutique oil, or supporting a small business (I think it’s a pyramid scheme), or running a premium oil - kinda like running 93 octane in the Cruiser.

Changing viscosities is fine - but why? The seasonal changes in TX don’t warrant it. They don’t even warrant it in Chicago.

I was under the impression that 0-20 is recommended, not because of superior protection, but from a mpg standpoint. I’m willing to give up the mpg for better protection.

 

[4gotalot]

Interesting thoughts.

Is there any validity to amsoil or whatever else premium products being better even if marginally so?

Also for my sake is there any harm in switching weights seasonally?

Yup, once in the spring and once in the fall. That is when the "Hey, dummy" light comes on at 5k miles. No math for me. Yes I do ck the oil to verify...

I use 5w-30 dino in the summer and 0W-20 syn in the winter. Both on sale and a reputable brand that meets specs of course and not mail order. I buy local. Sitting outside for 8 hours at -17f below is why I feel better about 0W-20. This winter has been mild so far but a week of those temps makes me feel better at engine start up.

Off topic but I also switch my wiper blades and snow tires at that time.

 

[04UZJ100]

I was under the impression that 0-20 is recommended, not because of superior protection, but from a mpg standpoint. I’m willing to give up the mpg for better protection

Likely so - the RoW recommendations are 5W30. Same engine, similar/identical operating environments. Heck it’s rated for 10W50 in Middle East….