Oil recommendations (1 Viewer)

[Mace]

I have used castrol 20/50 for a very long time. I am only switching because I buy Rotella by the gallon for Diesel oil changes.

Makes life easier only having one type of oil around the house..

 

[effjay60]

oil leaves a flim on the engine as well.

Harley guys pay $1000 for 2 exhaust pipes as well...


Is synthetic good? yes...
Is it worth it in a tractor motor??

Nope

tractor motor or not, I share the same afinity for my cruiser as "Harley Dudes" do for thier bikes. Synthetic offers more, my cruiser deserves more.

 

[brian]

rotella T and call it good. 15-40 in everything i own.

 

[Spike Strip]

tractor motor or not, I share the same afinity for my cruiser as "Harley Dudes" do for thier bikes. Synthetic offers more, my cruiser deserves more.

I don't think it's about what a 'cruiser deserves... Most peeps here would put the best oil in their rigs they can get... It's what might be best for a motor designed and built almost two generations ago, now. Additive packages have changed in modern oils to adapt to modern engines and current smog laws. I'm not an SAE oil engineer, but from what I've read, the additive package best suited to the 2F type of motor is now only found in oils that have the diesel certification; and some of these are synthetic.

I've run synthetics in everything I've owned - going back to the introduction of Arco Graphite, - including Air Compressors, Lawn Mowers, and weed whackers.

But in the cruiser I will run Rotella T (when it's running ).

That's just what I think is best, not necessarily the "Best" oil out there.

 

[effjay60]

well put. that makes sense. I was killing time before work and tried to find syn rotella, no luck. I did find amsoil 15/40 syn though. check this outAMSOIL Synthetic Diesel Engine Motor Oil?

I don't think it's about what a 'cruiser deserves... Most peeps here would put the best oil in their rigs they can get... It's what might be best for a motor designed and built almost two generations ago, now. Additive packages have changed in modern oils to adapt to modern engines and current smog laws. I'm not an SAE oil engineer, but from what I've read, the additive package best suited to the 2F type of motor is now only found in oils that have the diesel certification; and some of these are synthetic.

I've run synthetics in everything I've owned - going back to the introduction of Arco Graphite, - including Air Compressors, Lawn Mowers, and weed whackers.

But in the cruiser I will run Rotella T (when it's running ).

That's just what I think is best, not necessarily the "Best" oil out there.

 

[Mace]

well put. that makes sense. I was killing time before work and tried to find syn rotella, no luck. I did find amsoil 15/40 syn though. check this outAMSOIL Synthetic Diesel Engine Motor Oil?

A. it is an ad for Amsoil (I do really like their products BTW)

B. If my main bearings looked like that after 15K I would be sorely disappointed.

 

[effjay60]

I don't think it's about what a 'cruiser deserves... Most peeps here would put the best oil in their rigs they can get... It's what might be best for a motor designed and built almost two generations ago, now. Additive packages have changed in modern oils to adapt to modern engines and current smog laws. I'm not an SAE oil engineer, but from what I've read, the additive package best suited to the 2F type of motor is now only found in oils that have the diesel certification; and some of these are synthetic.

I've run synthetics in everything I've owned - going back to the introduction of Arco Graphite, - including Air Compressors, Lawn Mowers, and weed whackers.

But in the cruiser I will run Rotella T (when it's running ).

That's just what I think is best, not necessarily the "Best" oil out there.

actually, additive packages have gone up with time/technology. in the 60's there wasn't even such a thing! And it's the additive package that actually wears out, not the oil itself. "Mobil 1 has about 10-12% additives, far less than 'dino' oil, because the synthetic base stocks are much, much closer to 'perfect' and able to do an outstanding job without the use of nearly as many additives, which can be thought of as modifiers or 'band-aids'. This higher percentage of actual OIL in the Mobil 1 formula lets the oil lubricate and cool your engine better. That is why engines that use a good synthetic get noticeably better mileage, run cooler, last longer, make more power, and produce fewer emissions. But to me, the most important reason that I use Mobil 1 is because there are no trace elements in it. None! Remember, it is the sulfur and phosphorous that helps lead to sludge formation in an engine. Without these trace elements in the oil, the formation of sludge is remarkably reduced. Engines that are run exclusively on Mobil 1 stay unbelievably clean and sludge-free. Sludge is far and away the leading cause of engine failure. That's why I don't like the Castrol synthetic product: It still contains many trace elements. Now Amsoil advertises that their oil is the 'extended drain interval' oil. They do this by pumping up the additive package. They can have as much as 3 times as many additives as Mobil 1, so in theory it can take more 'shearing', lasting longer. More additives means less actual oil in the mix, resulting in less lubrication, less cooling, more wear and tear...you know the rest. The oil may last longer, but at what price? Your engine? That's not a good trade off for me. Don't get me wrong. Amsoil is a very good oil, but no matter how good any oil is, your engine is still going to produce contaminants and by-products, and the longer they are in your engine the more damage being done. " quote is from a 15year Texaco employee in lubrication development not a Mobil 1 employee

 

[aythya]

Hello All! Noob here but not to engines, wheeling, bikes, etc.. I just spent the day with a buddy of mine at a race shop going over his new race car. Owner/Cheif engineer of race shop and I discussed oils. During break in he runs rotella in all of his newly built engines. Switches to Motul after that. He said no matter what you run or drive avoid Mobil 1.

When formula changes were made/mandated more of the dry lubricate/additive type items were removed from the dino juice.

I used to run Castrol in my sports cars, never a problem. I currently run mobil in my work truck - full size chevy - and just put penzoil in my 60. First oil change since I bought it a few weeks ago and it was on sale. Rig has leaks. Assessing situation before I decide.

Thanks to all for all of the good reading!!!!!

 

[nstokes]

HUH?

A. it is an ad for Amsoil (I do really like their products BTW)

B. If my main bearings looked like that after 15K I would be sorely disappointed.

Where in this page did you get that the bearings looked like this in 15K? clearly at the top it says 409K, read further and it is more amazing.

Fact is the engine was put back together and is still on the road.

15k??? AMSOIL rocks!!!!

 

[Mace]

Where in this page did you get that the bearings looked like this in 15K? clearly at the top it says 409K, read further and it is more amazing.

Fact is the engine was put back together and is still on the road.

15k??? AMSOIL rocks!!!!

I got it from the pics mid way through the article.

"light wear. They compare to [those in] an engine that had 15,000 to 20,000-mile [petroleum] oil and filter changes."
- independant engine rater


Guess I did not read it correctly. When I read it it came across as the wear was comprable to an enginet hat had run dino oil for 15K. Sorry bout that. But the pics of bearing to me is certianly NOT light wear or minimal wear.

That comparison is for a tractor trailer diesel motor. And is an ad for amsoil. Is amsoil good. Yes. Would I ever even contemplate going 409,000 miles without an oil change? Ohh god no. Diesels consistantly go over a million miles any way.

Did you really drag this thread up just to say HUH??

 

[lehiguy]

Synthetic lubricates better and leaves a film on engine parts helping prevent engine wear at startup. The Harley guys at work say it runs 10 degrees cooler in their bikes. It's better hands down. It's more expensive hands down. One more benifit is that synthetics do not contain any sulfur. Refineries cannot remove 100% of the sulfur from their product. Sulfur combines with water vapor to form sulfuric acid (icky) which is why you should change your oil periodically despite milage.

You Land Cruiser is not lubricating the gear box with it's engine oil. Motorcycles place far more stress on lubricants in the way of shearing, (transmission) heat (especially air-cooled motors) and RPM (which really translates into pressure). Your Cruiser will NEVER place that much demand on it's oil, period. Is synthetic superior? Absolutely. but you need that about as much as you need to make all your plug wires the same length so that your spark isn't delayed travelling the extra six inches to cylinder number one.

 

[lehiguy]

My engine builder said newer oils have removed a lot of the pressure-wear additives necessary for flat-tappet engines. Modern engines with OHC don't need them, and also for smog reasons.

Run an oil (like Rotella T) that's certified for BOTH gasoline and diesel engines. Those contain the pressure-wear additives.

There are both synthetics and dino oils with diesel/gas certs. Rotella (shell) makes one, but I've found it hard to find the full synthetic Rotella T . Frequent changes is the key -- Consumer Reports tested this a few years ago.

All oils contain "additives". What isn't present as much as it used to be are metals, like zinc. These were used as the last barrier between moving parts when the oil film BREAKS DOWN! Newer oils are vastly superior as a whole and don't need those metals anymore because film strength is so much better. You can't buy the same oils that were around in the 20s when Chervolet first developed the Stove Bolt Six, the original from which the 2F is descended. Nothing available today is that bad!

 

[Zack1978]

Well after 255,000 my original 2F burns some oil, leaks some oil.............So in the winter it gets Castrol 10W40 and in the summer it gets Castrol 20W50. I am a big fan of Mobil 1, and I use it in every car/truck that I own except the fj60 and my 72 Karmann Ghia. IMHO it is a huge waste of money to dump Mobil 1 in my 60, however if my engine was brand new I might.

Zack

 

[dwillmo]

I had JEEPS for many years. HUGE discussion on the JEEP Forum on oil and filters, many many favored ROTELLA T. If you ask mechanics (not dealership guys) but guys who have been around a while, they will recommend ROTELLA T more than any other kind of oil . They will also tell you they favor more frequent oil changes regardless of the type oil, over a synthetic with extended change interval. One mechanic told me he didn't like to recommend syn oil because people wouldn't change if for 10,000 miles. I think if you had an engine that was turning a lot of RPM maybe the syn would be an advantage, but for the big tractor motor in a Cruiser that hardly ever gets above 3000 rpm I don't think theres any advantage.

 

[Joe_E]

When you guys talk of running the Shell Rotella T Multigrade, are you using the 15W40 or the the 10W30?

 

[Zack1978]

What makes a diesel spec oil different from a gas engine oil?


Zack

 

[Moby]

All oils contain "additives". What isn't present as much as it used to be are metals, like zinc. These were used as the last barrier between moving parts when the oil film BREAKS DOWN! Newer oils are vastly superior as a whole and don't need those metals anymore because film strength is so much better. You can't buy the same oils that were around in the 20s when Chervolet first developed the Stove Bolt Six, the original from which the 2F is descended. Nothing available today is that bad!

I really debated the Rottella vs. Mobile 1 for my rebuilt 3FE. I've always used synthetics with very good results. Post break in I've gone with Mobile 1 because they reintroduced their 15w50 which, they say, is specifically formulated for older valvetrains that need increased anti-wear protection (they actually say racing/towing applications and older valvetrains). I'm hoping that it gives me the general results that I'm used to with synthetics plus more wear protection for an older style engine. Not being a chemist this is really just bench racing on my part but I feel good about the Mobile 1 15w50. So far my cleanable/reusable Pure Power oil filter's magnets are just showing very small amounts of metal particals too fine to even feel gritty when rubbed between the fingers. No substantial particals at all.

Rottella 15w40 would be my choice if I were not going to use a synthetic.

 

[Spike Strip]

Interesting...

From the Mobil Website:

"Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines."

I might consider this oil. It's also CF rated, which is, albeit the lowest, but still diesel cert.

But at more than twice the price of Rotella?

 

[Moby]

Interesting...

From the Mobil Website:

"Mobil 1 15W-50 is also recommended for older valve train designs that may benefit from a higher level of anti-wear normally not required for newer generation vehicles. Mobil 1 15W-50 will also provide better anti-wear protection for higher valve spring tensions in certain racing engines."

I might consider this oil. It's also CF rated, which is, albeit the lowest, but still diesel cert.

But at more than twice the price of Rotella?

Yeah, that was definitely a factor. Ultimately, for me, the oil change interval was also a factor. I don't hold synthetic to the same 3 month oil change interval like conventional. My cruiser doesn't see many miles (it's the third car and usually only used on the weekends;l I only drive to work 1 or 2 times a weeks and for that I use my commuter car). The ability to go 6-12 months without as much concern for the oil breaking down as it sits has a cost savings up side for my scenario.

 

[60LCConvert]

let see if i can get yelled at, my son as well as two very good friends are heavy diesel mechs, one (not my son) has well over 15 years with companies like empire, schwabb, red mountain machinery. all concerned say the same thing rotella while a great oil for diesels (ask any trucker) should not be used in a gas burner due to the detergents used in it to help fight the soot in an oil burner. as far as sythetics go they are great but in older engines they work best to help mark where you have been parked. Love synthetic in the wifes new wrangler but for older engines I would say stick with the tried and true (valvoline, Castrol, The Q, any of the good names should be fine. oh yeah when the stick reads low and your out on a trail, the best oil to use is the slick kind