I recently purchased my first Toyota Land Cruise, a 96 FZJ80. It needs an oil pump. Do I have to pull the engine to put in an oil pump (and possibly new timing cover) or can it be changed like the oil pump seal I've been reading up on? Help with this will be much appreciated. Thanks All Jason
OIL PUMP/TIMING COVER help me please!!!
- Thread starter jasonlee
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Why do you think it needs an oil pump?
Low oil pressure?
Rod knock?
Leaks?
Low oil pressure?
Rod knock?
Leaks?
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks BLK
It has all of the above...LOL....foremost being it is knocking and I want to see if a pump will possibly make it limp on until I can afford a reman or build my own engine. It has 230K miles and it has ZERO OIL PRESSURE, but will crank easily (just bump it)....however a friend of mine who is a Toyota guru with cars, says I may get by with just a pump, or possible new timing cover and pump. Can it be removed in the LC or will it have to be pulled out to change? I have a great shop (own a tire shop) and all tools, but no knowledge of this engine...any help is awesome!!
It has all of the above...LOL....foremost being it is knocking and I want to see if a pump will possibly make it limp on until I can afford a reman or build my own engine. It has 230K miles and it has ZERO OIL PRESSURE, but will crank easily (just bump it)....however a friend of mine who is a Toyota guru with cars, says I may get by with just a pump, or possible new timing cover and pump. Can it be removed in the LC or will it have to be pulled out to change? I have a great shop (own a tire shop) and all tools, but no knowledge of this engine...any help is awesome!!
You've got a lot of reading to do...
Welcome, by the way!
Check the tightness of the big bolt with a 30mm hex head in the front pulley. If it's loose, you'll know why it knocks probably.
Otherwise, switch to thicker oil while you try to sort it out. Like 20w50.
Welcome, by the way!
Check the tightness of the big bolt with a 30mm hex head in the front pulley. If it's loose, you'll know why it knocks probably.
Otherwise, switch to thicker oil while you try to sort it out. Like 20w50.
It's pretty easy to replace the oil pump, but it's hard to imagine that's the problem. How have you checked the lack of pressure other than the gauge? If you haven't, make sure the connector is on the sender. If it's not, it will read zero pressure.
alia176
SILVER Star
Jason,
First and foremost, ignore your buddy's advice. He knows Toyota cars, BUT not Landcruiser engines. However, you did come to the right place for accurate info.
I'd purchase a mechanical oil pressure gauge link and verify what you think is happening. Remove the OEM oil pressure sending unit and place the mechanical gauge in its place. Start up the engine to see if your oil pressure comes up. WARNING the aftermarket pressure gauge has fittings that are NPT and your landcruiser has threads that is NOT NPT. So, be VERY careful when you screw in the aftermarket fitting, do it gently with some teflon tape. I think 1/8" NPT should work but it's not a perfect fit. But, for our purpose, this should work out.
Unfortunately, this is the best picture I seem to have on my HDD. The OEM sending unit is directly to the right of the T-stat (in the pic). It's a round thing with a tab sticking out of it. In the picture below, the motor is upside down and you're looking at the passenger side of the engine. The sending unit is toward the bottom, directly under the exhaust manifold. So, it goes w/o saying, do this work when the engine is cold!!
If the pressure doesn't come up, then proceed to figuring out why. One option that I can think of is that your crankshaft nut is not torqued to 304 ft -lb (as mentioned by BLK up above). If this nut isn't tight, the sprocket that turns the oil pressure pump may not be turning. One hint of this is if your power steering is hard. Is it hard to turn the front wheels when the engine is running? The oil pump sprocket in turn spins the PS pump sprocket.
See the picture below. The 30mm Cshaft bolt is missing but it goes at the end of the Cshaft. Follow the shaft toward the engine is this is where the C-shaft sprocket (for timing chain) sits, to the right is the large oil pump sprocket and to the right of it is where the PS pump sprocket would go (current missing, empty hole).
Just so you wanted to know, the oil pump can be removed w/o removing the timing cover. Below is the timing cover and the oil pump cover is the item on the right, with seven Phillips screws (#3 screwdriver).
Let us know what you find out.
First and foremost, ignore your buddy's advice. He knows Toyota cars, BUT not Landcruiser engines. However, you did come to the right place for accurate info.
I'd purchase a mechanical oil pressure gauge link and verify what you think is happening. Remove the OEM oil pressure sending unit and place the mechanical gauge in its place. Start up the engine to see if your oil pressure comes up. WARNING the aftermarket pressure gauge has fittings that are NPT and your landcruiser has threads that is NOT NPT. So, be VERY careful when you screw in the aftermarket fitting, do it gently with some teflon tape. I think 1/8" NPT should work but it's not a perfect fit. But, for our purpose, this should work out.
Unfortunately, this is the best picture I seem to have on my HDD. The OEM sending unit is directly to the right of the T-stat (in the pic). It's a round thing with a tab sticking out of it. In the picture below, the motor is upside down and you're looking at the passenger side of the engine. The sending unit is toward the bottom, directly under the exhaust manifold. So, it goes w/o saying, do this work when the engine is cold!!
If the pressure doesn't come up, then proceed to figuring out why. One option that I can think of is that your crankshaft nut is not torqued to 304 ft -lb (as mentioned by BLK up above). If this nut isn't tight, the sprocket that turns the oil pressure pump may not be turning. One hint of this is if your power steering is hard. Is it hard to turn the front wheels when the engine is running? The oil pump sprocket in turn spins the PS pump sprocket.
See the picture below. The 30mm Cshaft bolt is missing but it goes at the end of the Cshaft. Follow the shaft toward the engine is this is where the C-shaft sprocket (for timing chain) sits, to the right is the large oil pump sprocket and to the right of it is where the PS pump sprocket would go (current missing, empty hole).
Just so you wanted to know, the oil pump can be removed w/o removing the timing cover. Below is the timing cover and the oil pump cover is the item on the right, with seven Phillips screws (#3 screwdriver).
Let us know what you find out.
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Great info above^^. I was thinking it could also be a plugged or mostly plugged screen on the oil pick up tube in the oil pan. May be worth a look in the lower oil pan just to cross it off the list if the mechanical gauge confirms low pressure. I would think it is the 30mm bolt mentioned by others, or a bad sensor.
Edit- You will need a #3 phillips bit to get the oil pump screws out, #2 will likely leave them stripped and that will be a real B.
Edit- You will need a #3 phillips bit to get the oil pump screws out, #2 will likely leave them stripped and that will be a real B.
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x3 on the #3 Phillips.
If it has a knock, how bad is it? My rod knock was real bad, so bad you wouldn't have wanted to run it for more than a minute.
I don't see how the oil pump could fail really, or at least lose significant pressure. There just isn't that much to one of them. Most of them just need a new o-ring to stop the leaks.
If it has a knock, how bad is it? My rod knock was real bad, so bad you wouldn't have wanted to run it for more than a minute.
I don't see how the oil pump could fail really, or at least lose significant pressure. There just isn't that much to one of them. Most of them just need a new o-ring to stop the leaks.
- Thread starter
- #9
Guys thanks for all the help thusfar....I'm gonna start with the crankshaft nut to check for proper torque and go from there....I've heard that these engines are tough, and I hope so! I'm about to get off work and start on this pig so pray for her...LOL...I'll post more later and AGAIN THANKS ALL!!!!!
alia176
SILVER Star
Regarding the torque on the Cshaft bolt, this is where you can go a little overboard if you don't happen to have a proper torque wrench and that may work out fine. You'll need to stop the engine from rotating while you crank on this bolt. In order to do that, place a 14mm deep socket on the torque converter bolt and then rotate the engine until this socket rests against the bell housing. It's nice to have two people for this project but one person can pull it off. A two foot breaker bar with another 2' cheater pipe usually does the job - in a pinch. Torque converter bolts can be seen by lying under the engine, looking toward the rear of the vehicle. Look up and you'll see a plastic cover that hides the access hole under the trans.
Best thing in my opinion is to try to loosen that bolt without holding the crankshaft or anything. If you can loosen it by hand, THEN go to town and torque it.
I found mine was loose when I was tearing the engine down. At first, I thought it was good that I wouldn't have to fight it to get it off. Then I learned that was the primary reason I got my truck so cheap...
I found mine was loose when I was tearing the engine down. At first, I thought it was good that I wouldn't have to fight it to get it off. Then I learned that was the primary reason I got my truck so cheap...
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Here is a link to removing the oil pump cover, follow it religiously and it will be a snap. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html
You will need to order three parts, the gasket, crank seal and screws. Th fellow selling the PHH sells packets of the torx srews which I used instead of the philips screws. If you do this you may as well replace the fan clutch, water pump, idler pulley and belts as well. If you rebuild you can reuse those parts.
From what I have read the pumps on these engines were stout to say the least, built like a tank and should last the life of the engine without a problem. The crank pulley, if loose and as stated above, will cause numerous problems.
When using the 14 mm socket get one for an impact wrench, I broke mine (a craftsman) doing mine.
You will need to order three parts, the gasket, crank seal and screws. Th fellow selling the PHH sells packets of the torx srews which I used instead of the philips screws. If you do this you may as well replace the fan clutch, water pump, idler pulley and belts as well. If you rebuild you can reuse those parts.
From what I have read the pumps on these engines were stout to say the least, built like a tank and should last the life of the engine without a problem. The crank pulley, if loose and as stated above, will cause numerous problems.
When using the 14 mm socket get one for an impact wrench, I broke mine (a craftsman) doing mine.
alia176
SILVER Star
No problem. After you tighten the holy living s*** out of the bolt, let us know if the oil pressure goes up. Ideally, use a mechanical gauge to determine the actual pressure if possible.
- Thread starter
- #15
hey all...no change...that bolt is tight as hell...i put a 24" breaker bar with a 30" pipe and put my weight into it (all 155lbs...lol), but its tight....im gonna try pulling the lower pan to see if pickup tube is intact and not clogged up....is there an oil bypass for the filter in case it clogs?
I don't think you're going to find a blocked oil pan pickup. I've got a suspicion your engine has sustained some serious damage from a previous event such as low oil. Ask around for an oil pressure guage or buy one as noted. I suspect you'll find you have oil pressure. Not what you want to hear, but. I would check with the wiring on the sender as noted as well because when cold you should see the needle move even with the worst imaginable engine scenario.
Dropping the pan may yield more info, but I think you need to see the oil pressure no matter what. If it's in the range and you have the noise then the engine was damaged.
DougM
Dropping the pan may yield more info, but I think you need to see the oil pressure no matter what. If it's in the range and you have the noise then the engine was damaged.
DougM
- Thread starter
- #17
yeah, I think so. The pickup tube is in place and not blocked...put Rotella 15W40 to her and a new filter and its got a bottom end knock...probably gonna be mains. Do you have to pull the motor to access them on here or just drop the pan? I've heard that the top pan cannot be dropped without pulling engine...thanks, Jasonlee
alia176
SILVER Star
still would like to know what your oil pressure is but it sounds like you do have a bottom end knock.
Do a search in the FAQ under my name regarding the top pan. No, you don't have to pull the engine out for the removal of the top pan. Are you still listening to your Toyota buddy again? kidding.
Do a search in the FAQ under my name regarding the top pan. No, you don't have to pull the engine out for the removal of the top pan. Are you still listening to your Toyota buddy again?
kidding.- Thread starter
- #19
LOL...nah gave up on that....I think I'm gonna just pull this pigs guts out and send it to a machine shop to have it gone through....I hate to put the cheese in it, but I think this thing will be worth the work....When cranked the oil pressure does come up...just barely above first line....
