Oil pump cover how bad did I ****ed up (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

$23 for a single use caveman version.
Or $50 for a high tech version with 1 million & 1 other uses.

Personal experience, the cordless one is a safer bet if used correctly, and easier to use.

Similar to others here, used the caveman one decades ago, and never was impressed with then

 

[WhitePhoenix]

I'm one of the crazy ones that only removed the fan shroud to get this job done cause who doesn't love working in tight spaces. But I did end up stripping 3 of the screws, mostly inpart I think do to previous work that was very shotty with what I could only determine was threadlocker on the install since I used JIS bits for the attempted removal. After trying all the methods of heat, PB blaster, drilling out the screw head to remove the cover (which did work but did slightly enlarge one of the cover holes, replacement as the OP had mentioned), channel lock pliers, making a small cut in the screws to try using a screw driver to get em out, nothing was doing me justice.

Wasn't until I found this beauty that drilling out the screws was easy work

Amazon.com

Took my time on alignment, small starter hole to guide in a larger size drill bit and the screws crumpled (with putting some shop paper towels in the actual oil pump cavity to not have metal drop in there). A small magnet to get the metal pieces out, cleaned up the threads to make sure I didn't damage any for the reinstall and the rest went smooth.

 

[landtank]

I’ll share my approach to removing the screws. This has been a bit of an evolution and leans into the Neanderthal in me.

I buy a few #3 Philip tip bits that are meant for magnetic extensions. So h the hey are real short and don’t necessarily fit well in the screw head.

I then place them into the screw head and take my 3lb mini sledge and drive them into the screw so the screw yields and conforms to the bit.

I then grab my 1/4” ratchet with a 1/4” socket and back out the screw.

I’m replacing the screws with Torx so F those Philip screws no matter their type.

 

[Stew80UT]

If it makes you feel any better OP, I have been a Caterpillar technician for 11 years, Im an advanced field technician now and am expected to handle any and all jobs thrown my way, usually by myself.

Anyway I had a real hell of a time with this job also. Although I did not have to resort to drilling I did end up with a brazing torch out to heat up the heads of the screws. One of them stripped so bad I had to hammer a T30 torx socket into it to remove the screw.

It took two guys to get the rest of the screw out. My brother in law would break them loose with my 18 inch 3/8 dr ratchet while from below I pushed the head of the ratchet with a PH3 bit into the screws as hard as I could.

In the end after heating, hammering, cursing, and drinking over two evenings, I was able to get the job done with all new screws.

I used Loctite 38657 High-Flex gasket maker in a thin coat over the new oring, one to help the oring stay in the groove and also to ensure it doesnt leak again during the lift of the engine. Ive linked the loctite product below. Caterpillar uses this on many of its components, from engines, transmissions, differentials, etc. Its great stuff and well worth the price. Applied correctly with hardware torqued to spec, components very rarely leak.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-LOCTITE-555354/dp/B07L5YH1FM/ref=asc_df_B07L5YH1FM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740232&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=428045587283602728&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029706&hvtargid=pla-1388344474787&psc=1&mcid=1b668d01d5b43cb3a27d7451f448f77b&gad_source=1

 

[landingtheLC]

Quick update, so after carefully following everyones instructions and no more power tools. I think I was able to fix it without changing timing cover. I drove over 200 miles in a few days and no leaks from there. (Just my distributor o-ring, fuel tank, upped oil pan, one axle leaking nothing else) I want to thank everyone for the advice n tips this community rocks! Onto the next issue!

 

[calokie]

I’ll share my approach to removing the screws. This has been a bit of an evolution and leans into the Neanderthal in me.

I buy a few #3 Philip tip bits that are meant for magnetic extensions. So h the hey are real short and don’t necessarily fit well in the screw head.

I then place them into the screw head and take my 3lb mini sledge and drive them into the screw so the screw yields and conforms to the bit.

I then grab my 1/4” ratchet with a 1/4” socket and back out the screw.

I’m replacing the screws with Torx so F those Philip screws no matter their type.

TORX, is the way