You really boogered that surface up. I would get some "right stuff" RTV and fill those holes and lay a thin layer on both surfaces.
Oil pump cover how bad did I ****ed up
- Thread starter landingtheLC
- Start date
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Do you already have a regular impact driver?I've had my eye on the Milwaukee M12 right angle impact as I already have a few of the M12 tools
@IdahoDoug : is this what you use or ??
M12™ 1/4" Hex Right Angle Impact Driver Kit
www.milwaukeetool.com
I'd be more inclined to go for this if you don't already have an impact driver . . .
M12 FUEL™ 1/4" Hex Impact Driver | Milwaukee Tool
MILWAUKEE® M12 FUEL™ 1/4" Hex Impact Driver is the Fastest Subcompact Impact Driver, the Most Compact, and provides Maximum Workspace Visibility. 5" in length for access in tight spaces
www.milwaukeetool.com
1500lb of torque vs 600lb for the right angle drive.
5" from chuck to back of motor. Pretty compact.
Vs 2.6" for the head of the right angle drive.
The right angle one would be handy at times for sure though
Not true, unless that has changed in the last 3 months. I have wiha JIS + bits and various JIS screwdrivers. People can say what they want, but using the right bit makes a huge difference. Same thing with the funky british bits on the land rover. So many cammed out and destroyed fasteners until we got the proper bits.
I first felt the pain on japanese motorcycles in the 70's and 80's. We quickly learned that a philips bit is a great way to strip the heads on the screws holding carburetors together.
From what I've looked into, the JIS standard for screwdrivers expired in 2008 and they're all DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8763-1 standard now.
This is like rain man levels of semantics.
There's still millions of fasteners on vehicles, machines, whatever else made in Japan for decades that they were used on that needs maintained.
Flat blade fasteners should be obsolete, or Philips for that matter. But they still persist.
So many better options than Phillips
From a bit of goggling, what I can find says the JIS standards still apply to manufacture of fasteners. So, JIS fasteners as used by Toyota are still in use.
The change in screw driver standard is supposed to result in a one size fits all cross head screw driver design.
Pozi- drive screws made ac but if a take over in Australia for a while. But they seem to have disappeared. I believe because people continued to use Philips bits and **** up screws.
Heard many a s*** tradie swearing about useless pozi-drive screws. IMO, they were superior to Philips IF you used a pozi-drive bit.
As mentioned above I just take a new screw and test fit "Phillips" style bits from different manufacturers until I find one that fits snugly. IIRC one time I used a Bosch ACR bit, another time it was a Dewalt ACR type bit. If you look at the Amazon link above there are many "Phillips" or Crosshead type bits with different profiles (see photo below for a good WERA design)
FWIW I have a Milwaukee FUEL M12 1/4" hex impact driver mentioned above and have used it to remove the original screws. I've also used a ~18" long handled 3/8" drive ratcheting breaker bar with a 1/4" socket and 1" bit.
IME it's a close call which is better, but using the 18" long breaker bar with a quick snapping motion (ie: not a slow pull) may have worked somewhat better, or at least I felt like I had a better feel, and didn't have any damaged screws. Key either way IME is first cleaning out the slots in the screw heads, giving the bit a tap tap tap while it's in the screw, and then pushing inward on the bit/tool (to hold it in place in the screw head super tight so it doesn't cam out). I've also applied a bit of heat to the screw heads (a few seconds of a MAP gas torch to each screw head for example) followed by a spray of solvent (brake cleaner) or penetrating oil to cool them down quickly.
Here's a good example of a Phillips type ACR bit made by WERA that should fit well into the OEM Crosshead screws. Note how the blades bow outward as they go toward the tip along with the little ridges. IME this design fits snugly into the OEM oil pump screws heads.
FWIW I have a Milwaukee FUEL M12 1/4" hex impact driver mentioned above and have used it to remove the original screws. I've also used a ~18" long handled 3/8" drive ratcheting breaker bar with a 1/4" socket and 1" bit.
IME it's a close call which is better, but using the 18" long breaker bar with a quick snapping motion (ie: not a slow pull) may have worked somewhat better, or at least I felt like I had a better feel, and didn't have any damaged screws. Key either way IME is first cleaning out the slots in the screw heads, giving the bit a tap tap tap while it's in the screw, and then pushing inward on the bit/tool (to hold it in place in the screw head super tight so it doesn't cam out). I've also applied a bit of heat to the screw heads (a few seconds of a MAP gas torch to each screw head for example) followed by a spray of solvent (brake cleaner) or penetrating oil to cool them down quickly.
Here's a good example of a Phillips type ACR bit made by WERA that should fit well into the OEM Crosshead screws. Note how the blades bow outward as they go toward the tip along with the little ridges. IME this design fits snugly into the OEM oil pump screws heads.
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I'm all for what works.
But, since they actually sell the exact bit needed, why futz around trying to find something else close? Not like a couple of bits are expensive.
Anyhow, back to your thread, sorry for the sidetrack.
But, since they actually sell the exact bit needed, why futz around trying to find something else close? Not like a couple of bits are expensive.
Anyhow, back to your thread, sorry for the sidetrack.
It's all good.
Main points, IME/IMHO
1) Don't use a standard non-ACR Phillips bit, this is likely the most common cause of stripped screw heads for the oil pump cover
2) The average person (before attempting to remove the old OEM screws) can walk into their local hardware store with a new OEM screw and match it up with the different bits on the shelves until they find one that fits snugly
3) JIS bits (whether obsolete or not, IDK) are not generally available in US hardware or autoparts stores
4) All ACR (anti cam-out) type of Phillips or Crosshead bits are not the same design
5) ACR type of Phillips bits as shown in the photo above work well IME and IMO might be considered an improved design over a standard JIS bit
6) Test fit whichever type bit you're going to use (JIS, Phillips, Phillips ACR, etc, etc) before attempting to remove the original screws
Take your pick
For future searches:
Oil Pump Cover Screws JIS Phillips Stripped
Main points, IME/IMHO
1) Don't use a standard non-ACR Phillips bit, this is likely the most common cause of stripped screw heads for the oil pump cover
2) The average person (before attempting to remove the old OEM screws) can walk into their local hardware store with a new OEM screw and match it up with the different bits on the shelves until they find one that fits snugly
3) JIS bits (whether obsolete or not, IDK) are not generally available in US hardware or autoparts stores
4) All ACR (anti cam-out) type of Phillips or Crosshead bits are not the same design
5) ACR type of Phillips bits as shown in the photo above work well IME and IMO might be considered an improved design over a standard JIS bit
6) Test fit whichever type bit you're going to use (JIS, Phillips, Phillips ACR, etc, etc) before attempting to remove the original screws
Take your pick
For future searches:
Oil Pump Cover Screws JIS Phillips Stripped
No offense to whomever made the video above, but note that the bit used is a standard Phillips bit (note the straight blades) which IME is not the best type for this job. Note also that there are multiple damaged screws (by using a similar Phillips bits previously??)
It is a good video to show how to remove damaged screws.
It is a good video to show how to remove damaged screws.
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I agree with you, i think the OP should follow this advice in spades
I bought one specifically for this job back in 2018. I should have got the JIS bit but didn't know about it at the time. Still worked great.
I used the exact same tool.
Step 1 get all the dirt out
Step 2 hammer the bit in
Step 3 use impact to remove screws
Step 4 replace with Allen head screws
All the above is laughable easy with the engine on a stand!
A impact screw gun does the same job.
And brings you into 21 century.
I’m not sure what happened to it but I use to have one of those screw impacts drivers when I was a kid in the 70s
I used it to split the cases on motorcycle engines,Yamahas
back then no one I knew was familiar JIS bits.
We did know that they stripped very easily.
I used a small Makita impact screw gun to remove the screws on my oil pump cover it worked perfect got all the screws out without stripping any
A impact screw gun does the same job.
And brings you into 21 century.
I’m not sure what happened to it but I use to have one of those screw impacts drivers when I was a kid in the 70s
I used it to split the cases on motorcycle engines,Yamahas
back then no one I knew was familiar JIS bits.
We did know that they stripped very easily.
I used a small Makita impact screw gun to remove the screws on my oil pump cover it worked perfect got all the screws out without stripping any
^^^^^
Yep.
****Use the right tools, right techniques, and there will be no carnage****
And I just said a prayer hoping the OP is not a Dentist.
I do have and use the JIS bits
Me too. Still have the impact screw gun and didn't even know what JIS was.
I started with this, but couldn't get enough hammer swing to get them loose, so I went to buy an impact screw gun from somewhere just before the stores closed so I could finish getting it apart that day, based on advice from Mud.
I got all mine out cleanly (Craftsman screw gun) and installed all new OEM screws. Didn't have to drill any because I used a hammer and tapped in the bit prior to each one being worked on. I did not use Loctite on the threads when reassembled because that would make it worse for next time.A impact screw gun does the same job.
And brings you into 21 century.
I’m not sure what happened to it but I use to have one of those screw impacts drivers when I was a kid in the 70s
I used it to split the cases on motorcycle engines,Yamahas
back then no one I knew was familiar JIS bits.
We did know that they stripped very easily.
I used a small Makita impact screw gun to remove the screws on my oil pump cover it worked perfect got all the screws out without stripping any
- Thread starter
- #40
Hahaha thank god I am not^^^^^
Yep.
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****Use the right tools, right techniques, and there will be no carnage****
And I just said a prayer hoping the OP is not a Dentist.