After my recent rebuild, I'm finding I get no response from the oil pressure gauge. No movement at all when I turn the key, so I'm assuming it's not grounding, but would the unit crapping out do the same thing? Or would it just not read correctly?
Oil Pressure Sending Unit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IBFJ62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Which do you have the wire plugged into? Side spade or middle peg? Should be in middle. Add a port cap or 1/2” of silicone hose to the flat spade so you don’t mix up again. Gauge “could” be fried but possibly not. I flip flopped mine and it was fine.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Needs to be in the center round peg thing.... Unless a 62 is different from a 60. If that’s what it’s on that it might be fried.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Someone else might know.
- Thread starter
- #9
Still trying to figure this one out. New sending unit, still no movement at the gauge. Testing indicates the sending unit isn't grounding, but I'm not sure where I'm going wrong. I'm getting 12v down the line to the sending unit, and when I hooked up the old one with the test light inline, I could get it to glow if I grounded the old unit to the fender. No light from the test light when attached to the sender in the motor.
When I grounded the line to the sender to the fender, the gauge came alive and went to the top. I tried grounding the sender from the side tab, but no response. ??...
When I grounded the line to the sender to the fender, the gauge came alive and went to the top. I tried grounding the sender from the side tab, but no response. ??...
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Side tab is nothing. Middle round peg is what you’d want for it to work. IF it’s not working then if you had it hooked up wrongly like many of us do at least once, then you fried the actual gauge. It’s a very common oops.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
62 gauges are still avail. Or buy a used one.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Right here could be it being fried. I’m not an electrical person at all so hopefully someone else will speak up. But I do think it’s your gauge, not the sender.
- Thread starter
- #14
I'm hoping to avoid pulling the dash to get to the gauge, my gut tells me it's the sending unit not completing the circuit. I figured when I pulled out the old one it should have cleared up any corrosion or paint inside the threads enough to make metal to metal contact with the new sender, but maybe not.
Did you happen to put any sealant between the sender and where it screws into the block? I did this on my temp sender and while it did ground, it didn’t ground well. Once I removed it and cleaned it off and Re- inserted it clean, then my gauge was reading better.
I haven’t had your problem per se, but this is what I would look for based on my ground issues with my alternator:
Check the resistance between the negative battery and all your ground points. There should be negligible resistance. There’s one from the battery to the fender, from the head to the fire wall, from the starter to the frame and from the block to the fender (or frame, I can’t remember).
I added a ground from my block to the frame, and that seemed to help with my alternator issue I was having. If you find anything higher than expected, clean the terminal and contact point, use dielectric grease to keep the rust at bay if you have to sand any painted areas, and some people add star washers to get really good metal to metal contact.
I haven’t had your problem per se, but this is what I would look for based on my ground issues with my alternator:
Check the resistance between the negative battery and all your ground points. There should be negligible resistance. There’s one from the battery to the fender, from the head to the fire wall, from the starter to the frame and from the block to the fender (or frame, I can’t remember).
I added a ground from my block to the frame, and that seemed to help with my alternator issue I was having. If you find anything higher than expected, clean the terminal and contact point, use dielectric grease to keep the rust at bay if you have to sand any painted areas, and some people add star washers to get really good metal to metal contact.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
It’s wicked easy to pull the gauge. Something like 4 or five screws and your in.
- Thread starter
- #17
I did paint the oil cooler/filter mount, I'm thinking maybe the paint is blocking the sender from cleanly contacting metal. I'll pull the sender again and wire out the threads a bit to see if I can clean it up and get contact.
Yeah, I've pulled the dash plenty of times, I just hate pulling on the old plastic connectors and bezels, etc.
Yeah, I've pulled the dash plenty of times, I just hate pulling on the old plastic connectors and bezels, etc.
Does anyone know if the unused side terminal on the sender is a ground? It fries the Gage when it's connected to it. So as a test maybe run a wire from the sender side terminal to a good known ground and see what happens. (I guess it would be a good idea to test for continuity from this terminal to ground and also check for voltage on the side terminal to make sure you don't fry something by running a ground wire.)
Kind of makes sense as mentioned above thread sealant prevents a good ground to the engine.
Kind of makes sense as mentioned above thread sealant prevents a good ground to the engine.
- Thread starter
- #20
Still fooling with this, figured I'd post my latest test results. As per the FSM, I tested the signal from the gauge as well as the sender. Strange results.. When the test light is hooked to the gauge as specd, it says I should see a flashing light that increases with engine speed. I get a solidly lit light. When testing the sender, it also says it should be a flashing light, I get just an occasional light, particularly when revving the motor or when just turning on the key. ?? Not being an electrical wizz, any ideas?
