ahh yess 1/2 NPT its been a while since i did it 
Oil pouring out the front of the block...need advice
- Thread starter jfnall
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And I only know for sure 'cause I did the black block in the picture very recently (it's still on the stand in the shop).
- Joined
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The threads are in the smaller stepped down portion. The threads end up cut a little beyond the first oil hole, because that's the shape of the tap. The plug is measured and threaded into the block just far enough to get to the first oil hole, but not cover it significantly. If the plug won't go in far enough, then run the tap in some more. If it is tapped a little too far and the plug easily goes in too deep, then add a couple wraps of yellow teflon tape to seal and tighten up the interference fit between plug & hole.
I do not have a great suggestion for keeping swarf from falling down the first oil hole to the #1 main bering. This procedure is usually done with the bare block on a stand, so chips can be blown out of all passages prior to engine assembly.
FWIW, iIf this truck arrived in my shop in this condition, it would get both gallery plugs replaced with proper 24mm welch plugs and that would take care of it. Tapping those large threads in the hard iron block is a biatch, and doing 2 of them in-chassis is not something I would do at any price.
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Thanks Jim. The details I was looking for. I will go the 24mm welch plug route. I'm nervous about the back one now. Guess I may be dropping out the tranny soon.
I haven't tapped this hole, but when doing a spark plug heli-coil insert on an aluminum head (have done several 4.6l fords) we grease up the tap flutes, back-out often, clean and re-grease. the grease traps the chips. I'm with Jim though, sounds like a major pain considering location.
